BikeJake
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Posts posted by BikeJake
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485 quid for one from Suzuki Performance, Gulp or a pattern from Eblag, can anyone recommend a good quality one?
Thats not arm and leg expenaive?
Woops sorry GSF1200 Bandit 2001
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Where and how do I get and fit and top end rad
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8 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
Separate cooler on the cylinder head circuit is a must.
It does feel like as if the more power I squeeze out of it the more the head will be pressed.. I see a A LOT of cams being sold on the bay that look as if the bearing surfaces have been cooked they are discoloured in caramel. Can't be right.
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20 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
I put some on my old GSXR1100 years ago just for the look, no oil went through them though
Whaaat lol
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8 minutes ago, wraith said:
The ones that just go from one cam to the other are more just for show. So may say it helps the oil go to each side but I'm not 100% on that myself.
On a standard motor not really needed but they look nice.
That was the impression I got, without have even taken the top end apart. I'm building with a gas flowed head Kent cams flat slides aiming for North of 150 bhp, I'm getting the idea a bigger and better oil rad would be a good idea.
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Hi again everyone... Sorry for total Newbie Questions...
These links between the ends of the cams, what is the purpose and do their achieve what they are supposed to?
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Thanks everyone.
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Been offered this combo is it worthy?
Be nice if the head and Cams will give more power as is.
But I also need donor cams for Kent regrind.
I'd the head worth having?
Is there any cam wheel compatibility issues will thee be any issues fitting it as is?
Thanks as always I'm still learning how the power routes work out.
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9 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Cooked how? Can't say i've seen 'cooked' cam bearings! I've seen destroyed journals through oil failure and damage caused through poor oil maintenance / changes. But 'cooked' implies overheated / burnt? So IMO, common - No!
Oil failure due to high oil temperature half the cams I've seen for sale second hand are ruined on the bearing surfaces.
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Looking at some doner cams a lot seemed to be cooked at the cam bearings / journals... Is this common?
Thank again for all your help
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19 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Mk2 cams will fit fine. Seem to remember reading that the Mk2 intake cam was slightly hotter than the mk1.
Thanks... All I neef now..... Is to be able to talk to someone who can do the gas flowing.
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Is it OK to get Mk2s for a regrind?
I am also concerned about the journals maybe best to send mine at the appropriate time as the bead and Cams warn togetber,
Opinions please... Thank you!
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The cams seem to be the issue.
Plenty of slingshot cams no J K Cams some expensive cams.
And a note that these engines have a tendency to burn up cams a tad?
I guess I'm gonna have to go Kent of Sukuki Performance Spares.
Trying to get hold of Grumpy see if they can do head.
Pistons JE or MTC??
Or shall I just do some pistons split the cases do some H beam rods and bolt a turbo to it...
Tbh... I'm less attracted to that as I like trad DOHC carb engines.
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I just found Grumpy 1260 feel like I've hit the motherload.
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This is diamond info chaps.
JE / MTC 1216
J/K 750 cams
Gas flowed B12 Head.
38 RS
Hindle 421 Headers.
Dynotek Ignition
Dyno sesh...
Anything else before I start buying this stuff. Lol..
I do think the 3rd party cams at 325 plus pandp seems like the biggest waste of dosh if I can find JK ones?... Am I making sense.?
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19 hours ago, wraith said:
I'm dyslexic as well and there are some others on here like that as well, so don't worry about that bit (the piss will be taken at some point but don't take to heart it's all in good fun )
To your engine, as above, if you're getting a big bore anyway don't bother with a dot head as they only increase the combustion and the big bore will do that, so use the cash to get the standard b12 ported instead of buying a dot head
As to gsxr cams, you don't need the gsxr cam chain sprockets, as you will be using your b12 cam chain sprockets, any of the gsxr1100/750 or gsx1100f cams will be better than the b12 ones I can't remember which ones are the best (I think they where the slabside) but someone will be along to say which.
You can buy off the shelf advance wheels ATU from Grumpy 1260 (Eblag or he might be on here?) You can get 3-4 or 5° advance (iv got a 4° but that's just because it came up cheep on Eblag)
You can keep the standard b12 ECU, or spend money on a all singing all dancing thing.
Exhaust, is a must and that will be down to how deep are your pockets or what you like the look of.
Carb, all depends, you can get good results from the standard b12 carbs with Dyno time or get some flat slides, if you want top end 38-40mm if you want road usability 36mm, I like the gsxr750 38mm as they seem to be good at low revs but also give good mid and top end power.
Have a good read through the Francinsten pages on here lots and lots of info.
You may also want to look at the cable clutch conversion.
So any GSXR750 or 1100 oil cooled cams will give enough for 150 or so BHP in a bandit with high comp big bore standard bottom end 38 RS Flats advance wheel... I'm thinking Hindle 421 Headers. Its only the higher lift race cam profiles I need be weary of?
If you could pic a Gsxr year for the cams what would it be?
I'm guessing the GSXR7 and 11 cams are OK with the MTC pistons as they are designed to work together in engines with identical deck heights etc?...
Thanks guys....
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18 hours ago, george 1100 said:
Also, when you say big bore, how big are we talking?
Possibly MTC 1216
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10 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Its a Blandit for god's sake - putting a 160hp engine in a chassis built for 100hp is a pointless exercise - unless you desire the company of Paramedics, Doctors and nurses! A GSXR had a far more capable chassis to cope with its std 125+hp. Blandits CAN be made capable but suspender mods and brake upgrades cost money as well and even then, they'll never scratch as well as their sport bike brothers.
If the Blandit is what you want, and with limited money IMO, i'd get a decent SA, some HyperPro progressive fork springs, some decent brakes and then put a DOT head on the Blandit bottom end, with addition of Hayabusa mk1 pistons and maybe some 36mm RS flatslides, you'll end up with a torquey road tool with about 150 odd hp! A bike that can loft the front, on the throttle in 3 gears is a damn sight more fun than having 160hp @ 10,500 rpm that you never use!
I've got an upgraded shock and progressive springs and front fork rebuild already done on the bike by the PO. As well as a braced arm being done shortly.
What year 750 head is a DOT head and do I need the cams and wheels and Ecu (and extra advance) please?
I appreciate all the info it's difficult for me to gather all the facts in one point, I'm afraid I am quite dyslexic which is why I work with machines and logic for a living... Thanks!
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9 hours ago, wraith said:
Welcome to OSS
As you know/can tell, there meany different ways to go tuning the air cooled lump (take it you're doing a 1200 not the 600 )
As above you can spend lots of money on big house power but you will need to do work on the handling, as standard bandits are a bit soft I'm told.
Engine wise, what do you want top end for track days say or a good all round road bike that you can have fun on?
For instance, I've got a b12 motor in my gsx et, I've put the dot head on that's been ported, a set of gsxr750 cams (different models have different cams, do a search for dot head and gsxr cam on this site) a 4° advancer and a set of gsxr750 38mm carbs and rubbers, a aftermarket (unknown down pipes).
Yes I agree it won't keep up with the lastest gsxr1000 etc but it puts a smile on my face.
If you want big bhp big bore and a turbo and start looking at the 200+ bhp mark
There are some lads on here the run fast bandit.
Just forget the handling or all that engine tuning will be a waste.
I sold a late GSXR1000 to build it. I already have a shock and some forks on the way, as well as a braced arm already purchased.
My conundrum is the clear compatibility between parts. Say I use a GSXR750 head and Cams, which year is that? I've no idea
Please don't worry about the rolling chassis
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9 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Its a Blandit for god's sake - putting a 160hp engine in a chassis built for 100hp is a pointless exercise - unless you desire the company of Paramedics, Doctors and nurses! A GSXR had a far more capable chassis to cope with its std 125+hp. Blandits CAN be made capable but suspender mods and brake upgrades cost money as well and even then, they'll never scratch as well as their sport bike brothers.
If the Blandit is what you want, and with limited money IMO, i'd get a decent SA, some HyperPro progressive fork springs, some decent brakes and then put a DOT head on the Blandit bottom end, with addition of Hayabusa mk1 pistons and maybe some 36mm RS flatslides, you'll end up with a torquey road tool with about 150 odd hp! A bike that can loft the front, on the throttle in 3 gears is a damn sight more fun than having 160hp @ 10,500 rpm that you never use!
Your assuming I'm not modding the brakes suspension arm forks etc... Which luckily I am
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Hi All,
Ive just acquired a mint Bandit for a last hurrah at tuning bikes, always wanted to do a Suzuki Oil Cooled Motor.
I have put together the cash for a big bore piston set.
The cams are extremely expensive, especially as the GSXR1100 makes ample power. IMHO. And may do even better with flatslides
What's the best head to use what's compatible and not... Is there any reading you can point me to?
For instance what about carb alignment and rubbers inlet angles?... Etc..
I've heard about dot heads but the GSXR1100 heads seem plentiful but mid models with cams are available for a few hundred quid. I don't mind recon valves cuts etc...
I expect this has been done to me death, but I feel a bit at the mercy of people flogging expensive stuff that cheap stuff does just as well?
Thanks everyone and hi
Dammit Oil Cooler Leaking
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Edited.... Doh... Sorry..