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Good to know, I think I do see a restrictor in the turbo. My setup is mixing/matching kit parts and custom parts so I wasnt sure if it had to do with their modified turbo, their oil line, or any td05. Thanks.

I'll be getting some components for my build from proboost in finland, in an email they said the td05 16g does not require an oil restrictor, is this accurate? I was under the impression journal bearings required one on these motors. Thanks.

I would love to. But I'm sure I'll eventually get bored with replacing apex seals

I ended up using hose clamps to clamp the rings. Was over in 15 minutes, I struggled to get the wrist pin through the conrod trying it with the pistons in the barrels

Hi, I just finished piecing back together my b12 after rebuilding it for a turbo. It runs great, other than when I come to a stop the idle wavers around 3k for about 5 seconds before dropping to 1k. While riding it, If I pull the clutch in or put it in neutral, the idle will stay at 3-4k and won't drop down. I have the vent bowl breathers tucked in the notch of the airbox, and all vacuum tops capped except the one to the gas tank. Airbox is on with a k&n filter, and the exhaust is off a merge collector header without the turbo. Obviously the lack of exhaust leans it out a bit, but when accelerating it feels perfect. Could that be the culprit? Or are there any other carb ports than may cause this, I might've missed something while rebuilding them. Also, choke cleaner finds no air leaks. Thanks.

No kidding, good to know, thanks

Torquing down the clutch nut on my bandit 1200 with the ebc handle and suddenly both my hands were on the bench and my knuckle was bleeding all over the place. Pretty sure this break in the tool slot caused it, is it fine to run or is the very small amount of missing weight going to screw with the engine while it's running? thanks.

Cases split, tensioner installed. I pulled the cylinders/head just to verify everything. Glad I did, I guess the oil passage o-ring didn't seat properly in the head and was completely mangled. That would've caused a leak for sure. I'll try this method, I started with 1&4 and was having a lot of trouble with 2&3. As far as compressors go, if I can't get em by hand I'll try some hose clamps. Another quick question, since the engine wasn't started I know I'm fine to reuse the MLS head gasket, but what about the copper base gasket? I used gasaginch and now it's dried all over it, would it be necessary to strip it all off? thanks

Get ready to laugh at my colossally dumbass move, but after completely rebuilding my motor to the cams I realized that the tensioner side cam guide installs in the bottom end while the cases are split, not the head. Back to the jungle I guess. While I'm here, any tips when it comes to installing pistons to the cylinder? I don't have the fancy ring compressor in the manual. Since I gotta do it again.

Great, I still only see turbine flanges or entire housings. couldn't tell you why. Thanks though!

Hi, I was mocking everything up and noticed my TD05 had this flange on the end instead of the regular pipe. Any idea where I could find an attachment for this, or would I need to fabricate my own? I couldn't find anything online, thanks.

Yep, that's brilliant. I was wondering what use that plug could serve.

Nice, and no catch can required?

Hi, I've been plotting out my oil lines for my turbo and have the feed all figure out. But I'm a little confused on the drain. I'm pretty sure mine's too high for gravity drain, and I'd be more comfortable with a pump anyways. Know a lot of people recommend a mechanical crank driven pump, but those are too expensive for me right now. So my question is, with one of those $50 electrical pumps would they be strong enough to pump the oil upwards into the clutch cover oil fill plug? I see a lot of people run them to the sump but I'm not sure how that would work with static oil level. Another question is if I could drain it into an oil cooler line with a split or a 1 way valve, or will engine pressure override the pump and result in me having 2 feeds? I know a crankcase breather is important and I see they make some from the oil fill cap, but I don't see any other place for one so I'm not too sure where my drain would fit into the equation. And catch cans aren't necessary for a drain with a pump if you run the pump on an independent circuit for few seconds after the bike is shut off, right? Any clarification would be appreciated, thanks.

Well I did the math and buying a proboost manifold + a Chinese td05 would actually be more cost effective, so I think I'll go with that, fabricating one looks pretty difficult. Thanks guys

True, he said they're booked up with full kits, in January, still gonna ask again though

I'll try and send him another message to see, he told me he couldn't about a month ago

Good to hear. how difficult was it? I'm pretty new to welding anything, and my fab skills aren't the best

The last major piece of my turbo bandit puzzle is the exhaust manifold. my turbo is a tf035, which doesn't fit the l proboost manifold. I've contacted big cc and a few others, and either got no response after a week or so or was told they couldn't make one at the moment. I'm pretty new to welding, and only have MIG available. would it be possible to weld up a manifold with MIG instead of TIG? making my own seems like the only option without spending $700. Thanks.

For busa pistons on std rods, should I used the wrist pins that came with the busa pistons, or the ones that were originally in the motor? thanks.

looks good, thanks!

Haven't mocked it up yet, would probably sit around the left knee

of course I do, im 17! no, but I got a used sequental BOV and just wanted that little tickle of noise at low speeds or free revving, oh well

Just curious about whether or not you guys could even hear your BOV go off. Personally I'd like to be able to hear it, but im assuming the wind noise and exhaust noise would overpower it. Anyone have a different experience?

Aha, that'll do it! thanks for the turbo advice too, sounds like a solid method