Fredrik_Steen
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Posts posted by Fredrik_Steen
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1 hour ago, gtecomp said:
thanks ...
..is that VAG coils?
Yes Sir, the short model.
Now I use IGN1A Smart Coil
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1 hour ago, gtecomp said:
Thanks for advice. I've checked your thread twice, but....can you show which page was installation shown?
Found a really old picture in my Phone
I use what we call "Tredobricka" in Swedish. A Steel/rubber washer from the hydraulic world on both sides on the cover.
Grind some fin's of the cover to get a nice sealing surface.
A standard cherry red sensor, 1mm from the exhaust lobe. Don't forget to account for the sealing between the cover and head when the cover are torqued down.
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11 hours ago, gtecomp said:
Yep...I'll write an e-mail to them and asked for more detailed explanation....but here is my new bunch of questions:
1. cam cover - is weldable? ... any magnesium strange alloy to be expected? I still consider the option to put hall sensor over some cam lobe.
2. dead time/voltage correction table of stock say what now!? 600 injectors. Before 7 years I put some weird values and I don't remember from where I get them.
3. some ignition table and VE table that work?
1. Look in my build thread "half thousand horses" there are pictures of my instalation on cam sensor without welding.
3. There are a basemap for gsxr/bandit to download on maxxecu website
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On 12/21/2021 at 7:24 AM, Arttu said:
Interesting. It's possible that this long tooth requires some special electronics to work properly with a VR sensor. Nice that they have some support for that stock wheel. Although it's another question if it's easier to change the sensor or change the wheel to something that works with stock sensor.
I'm going to try a MaxxECU on a Bandit with stock sensor and 24-2 wheel soon(ish). Interesting to see how that goes but I'm pretty confident it will work fine.
The change to a new sensor was relatively easy, I used the oem base plate and added a tab to mount the sensor
Love your new dyno, it looks awesome!
Would be fun if you documented your Maxx instalation on the bandit here on this page
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8 hours ago, gtecomp said:
Hm...this MaxxECU can work with original trigger wheel...interesting
Yes it works with stock wheel
if you press the big red help button in M-Tune and then scroll down to Trigger and open Suzuki Gsxr you will find my examples on trigger logs.
Send a email to support@maxxecu.com
They usually reply the same day
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I needed to change sensor on my maxxecu gsx-r 1100. We couldn't find Zero-crossing with stock sensor. Maxxecu support tried but with no luck.
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Holdener did a test earlier this week, boost juice vs windshield washer. He also has a 1h video up on the topic that you might be interested in
If you don't want to fit a intercooler, look into converting your fuel system to E-85.
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8 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
I'd generally agree air to water IC's make sense IF the engine is already water cooled! Trying to install a standalone water cooled solution on a bike is crazy - the original engine makes more heat so needs bigger cooling capacity, the boost requirement with excess heat requires an IC, a water cooled IC needs a) all the air side plumbing b) the water side plumbing c) the pump, power supply & possibly the controller and d) a water radiator to dump the IC removed heat!
Yes the picture of 'Project Laaarge' has a water IC but Sean has always been a bit strange and doesn't think 'normally' + its designed to run under extreme boost for 5-10 seconds max - nice practical 'grocery getter' LOL! I did talk with him that if he moved the oil cooler (under seat maybe) he could get a massive air 2 air in its place and his answer was ' it looks the mutts nutz though'
You won't use the coolant in a engine with water either, it's to hot.
The intercooler water needs to be ambient temperature.
You only need a small water radiator, when you ain't under boost the ambient inlet air in the boost pipe will cool the intercooler core.
The big problem with bandits are the space behind the engine, it's very hard to have the intercooler core in the plenum like all Hayabusa have.
Video on the topic
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With a intercooler your boost pressure will drop and you gain hp (denser air)
It's a hassle to make room for intercoolers, but it will be worth it
The sloppy bandit cams ain't funny at all, if you can find something else it would be more worth it than porting the head.
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Would love to see the dyno chart
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If you calculate it in matchbot intercooler are more worth it than port the head.
Do you have stock bandit camshafts?
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You can calculate your intake temp in matchbot:
https://www.borgwarner.com/aftermarket/boosting-technologies/performance-turbochargers/matchbot
What turbo and intercooler are you running?
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16 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:
Was that on a dyno or a bike actually intended to be used for intended purpose?
Im pretty sure the OP isnt particulalry interested in a one off for a few seconds
I did the high boost runs in a inertia dyno.
Later that day i took the bike out and bought my self a ice-cream at wastegate spring ~ 0,6bar pressure.
I'm not sure what OP are interested in, but I think the majority of people are on boost a few seconds pulling a gear or two
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16 hours ago, clivegto said:
As said rods are good for 250hp+ but the piston ring lines will collapse above 10psi in my personal experience with my early turbo build.
Did you gap the rings or was it factory spec?
Stock ignition curve or retard?
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5 hours ago, Allspeeds said:
Hypothetically speaking if say my draw through were to fall on to my et obviously I would have to change the barrels and pistons wich I have but on stock say what now!? rods what we talking limits 10psi 225hp? Or a little more and limit RPM?
Torque are hard on rods. I did 1,6bar @ 12 000rpm on stock rods and pistons.
Rasing boost curve and a lot of ignition retard around torque max.
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I have those mtc pistons in my bandit engine, don't forget to gap the rings.
My friend did 450hp with a stock hayabusa engine on pump fuel a couple of weeks ago. (Stock 12+ compression)
Busa pistons are strong!
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1 hour ago, MeanBean49 said:
Can almost measure in minutes how long bandit pistons last above 5psi lol.
Not so important in Mr Steens world where lasting a few seconds on a non motorcycle dyno and getting a big number to plaster all over the internet seems to be all thats important
5 psi ~ 0,34bar
100 stock bandit hp x 1,34 = 134hp
Think that will last for a long time...
Regarding non "motorcykel" dyno, people that actually know stuff are more impressed with a run in a loaded water absorber than on a light roller.
Atleast you can't cheat with djhp like your best friend.
My point was, keep your ignition timing safe and don't throw all boost in the torque max range. Most part failures are user errors.
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On 8/29/2021 at 1:10 AM, rerb said:
Hello, I can confidently say I'm addicted to boost. We had a quick drag event and I never wanted it to end. Currently I'm pushing 190ish to the rear wheel, but I'm a little unhappy in how hard of a wall I hit around 120-130. (Naked problems) Obviously the only answer here is more boost.
I've seen many builds above the 250 hp mark, but my question is with a properly tuned efi and good standalone for ignition, what else should be reinforced on the motor? I see the use of busa rods with a 2mm spacer, would just the spacer allow for a low enough cr? Are busa rods really that much stronger for it to be necessary for the 250 hp mark?
I've also considered that HD valve springs might be necessary, wouldn't a lot of boost have the possibility of holding the intake valves open?
Depending on the cost of aftermarket rods, I might get a set of those. I've heard bad things about certain brands though.
another thought of mine is finding a way to use my 13 psi more efficiently. Obviously on carbs it's tuned rich to avoid any flukes in fueling blowing the motor, so I lose some power there. I've seen the forum of gas flowed heads and GSXR cam swaps doing some good work for turbos, but are there any other secrets with charge piping, intercoolers, or plenum design that wouldn't necessarily require more boost for 250 hp? Unfortunately my manifold flange is sorta "unique" so the vf ball bearing turbos aren't an option for a better spool.
so with all this said, I ask of any recommendations to help me safely reach my target number, thank you all.
You need to be able to retard your ignition. It´s key.
A good boost controller, and keep the boost safe at peak torque
If you are on a budget, you can make 250 without any modifications to the engine, the bandit lump has low compression from factory.
First thing i would change if you have some money:
- Cylinderhead studs and gap the pistonrings.
E-85 would be useful and a intercooler.
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Do cylinder 2-3 first and 1-4 last.
It´s tight but i will work. Can be seen in my movie. 2:26
Suzuki Gsx-r 1100 EFI Random movies 2020 - YouTube
Clean the base gasket, i use Loctite 3020 on the base gasket =)
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10 hours ago, davecara said:
A rising rate regultor wants to see the same as the map sensor sees so the fuel pressure can rise in direct correlation to the boost pressue. And yes, the wastegate doesnt want connecting but the BOV does
"fuel pressure can rise in direct correlation to the boost pressue" it will do that connected to the plenum.
You get a nice stable fuel pressure that rise with boost pressure.
If you have vacuum the pressure will jump up and down and you get of your set base fuel pressure.
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The regulator don´t want to see vacuum, just fit it to the plenum.
Vacuum makes the fuel pressure unstable and it drops below your base setting. (idle and part throttle)
Wastegate don´t need vaccum fit it to the plenum or turbo.
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You can use the stock wheel with Maxxecu. But you need a VR sensor.
Why use ignitech ecu instead of only Maxx?
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You need a catch can with a ventilation hose on top.
I did this test last night. Retur oil i a coke bottle and the scavange feed. Then you will know if you scavange enough oil. Anyone that can guess what the third hose are? =)
(2500rpm on the movie)
I´m running a very small ristriktor on my ball bearing turbo. You will see a increase on flow when you rev the engine.
On a journal turbo and no ristriktor you will see a LOT of flow. ( I think it can hurt the engine when you take so mutch oil frome the main oil gallery)
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How big is "very large drain"
Look at the hole in the turbo, are you matching that?
Turbo leaks oil after rebuild. Why? - YouTube
Oil restrictor on the feed line you can look into
1216 Build List + Very Basic Questions
in Forced Induction
Posted
You need to change the washers in the head when you use CHN1000K nuts. The stock ones will just deforme and lose claming force.
Ignition curve you need to be abel to controll.
Boostcontroller, you need to be abel to contoll boost around torque max. Torqe kills engines.
I would go for a MSL gasket, not cooper.