Hariii
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Posts posted by Hariii
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I didn't clean the carbs by just using some regular carb cleaner of a can. Well, not the third time
At the third time, i completly dismantled the carbs and put them in a special ERC cleaner over the night. Greg or Nanno as he is known here gave me this tip and it worked wonders.
The electrical problem is annoying and i hope i will find the issue in the following weeks. I mean, i should find the problem if i follow the cables of the ignition, don't i?
Short Edit:
Screwed in the air pilots a 1/4 turn and adjusted the idle srew. Now the bike drives way better. As it's quite early in the morning here in Austria, i took a little drive on the street (lucky me there were no police present) and it felt just awesome. 100km/h were no problem and they bike accerlerated quite smooth. Can't wait to get the carb snyc perfectly.
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Thanks guys. My next and hopefully last big challenge are the carbs i guess in order to make her run better? She starts immediatly with the choke on. Engine cracks up, then goes down to 1000 - 2000 revs. At this moment, it's possible to drive for a few minutes but not really smooth. There is misfiring and throttle response is sometimes lagging.
If i slowly remove the choke (about half a turn), the engine cracks up til it gets better. At this point she runs better (maybe best), but far from beeing perfect. If i remove the choke, the engine goes out.
Also, if the engine is running and turn the keys to "OFF", nothing happens. Cause of this, i have to turn off the engine either by removing the choke or by the killswitch.
Any ideas what i should do or try? Would like to register her the next month in order to visit a professional mechanic. But for this, she needs to run way better then now.
Here is a vid:
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Today i received the missing parts i ordered a while ago in order solve the mystery of the gear shifting problem. I replaced the shaft, the spring and put in the missing dowels (or spacers).
Then i put everything back together, filled in some 10W 40 Oil, startet her up, did a short run (still not registered yet) and hell yeah, the shifting works just fine and without anymore problems.
Don't know what solved the problem in the end, the shaft or missing dowels, but well i don't really care.
So here is the simple solution for my problem which took me weeks to figure out. All thanks to you and your guidance!
Therefore, thank you guys!!
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I searched the whold god damn house and couldn't find any glass of plate or an old mirror. Other than a bent shaft, i found another possible reason for my problem. https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs750ec-1977-b-usa-e03_model34282/partslist/BLCK0013.html#.Xt57kp4za8o . Number 15, out of the 6 spacers 4 are missing. Maybe this could result in a slightly disortion of the cover when tighten up the bolts?
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I pray to the motorcycles gods that it will solve the problem. Today i tried shifting without the sprocket cover on and it did work quite well. Now i also know how smootly the shaft should be able to move.
The only thing left is to figure out, why it's not working with the cover and how to solve it.
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@Swiss Tonithe hole is ok and i there were no signs of any damage on the cover. Guess the alternator cover protected it. As already mentioned, i orderd a new shaft just to be safe and because i don't think that the cover is really the problem too be honest.
Short info: I tried out the shifting with the bolts of the sprocket cover loosend up and it felt way better than before. Not perfect, but i think i'm getting closer.
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Seems to be normal with the GS 750 as you can see here: https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs750ec-1977-b-usa-e03_model34282/partslist/BLCK0040.html#.Xt5qv54za8o
Nevertheless, in order to exclude the shaft i ordererd one from cmsnl. It's impossible to get a new one, as they are no longer beeing fabricated. What a surprise. I also thought about filing the hole in the clutch cover to make it just a little bit wider. But somehow i'm really uncertain if that would be a good idea.
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39 minutes ago, bob654 said:
Mine was a lot easier to move than that. If I lifted mine it would fall when let go.
When you see the pawl spring size, a stiffness like that would be all it would take to stop it doing its job. I think thats your problem.
Guess we have figured out why the shifting isn't working as it should. When i remove the clutch cover, the shaft moves/turns easily without any resistance. If i put the cover back, it gets a little bit more difficult, but still better than in the video. Now, if i tighten up the bolts (especially the lower ones) it gets worse.
My conclusion: Either the shaft is bent and i can't see it, or the is a problem with the cover? Guess its just a few mm that are giving me the headache of a lifetime
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58 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:
As they say, 'A picture tells a thousand words'! Video's even better! Either the shaft's bent, or corroded at its contact points with the cases or, the hole in the casing is deformed, as 1460 says. Have you tried rolling it on your flat surface? Looking at your video, the shaft is definately the problem!
I did and i couldn't see any bent with the naked eye. It seems perfectly straight...
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I am not sure. I mean, there is certainly something wrong, but i don't know if it is the shaft. To me, it looks straight, even after putting it on a even surface.
Maybe this video will help:
As you can see, the shaft moves freely until a certain point. When putting it fully in, it moves really hard and i guess that this is the issue..
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7 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
Pull the shaft out again, and roll it on a flat surface, glass/bench-top ect. That'll prove straightness (or not). Taking the spring off will do nothing, apart from leaving the shift drum in the position you've just placed it. The lever not returning to put the selector in place for the next gear change. If the shaft isn't bent, try a new shaft spring first. If that doesn't cure it, then think about changing the pawl springs. It's not uber difficult, just fucking awkward! Have all your new parts to hand. Remove the pawl mechanism, holding the two pawls against spring pressure. Keep one depressed, and let go of the other one ... carefully! It will probably drop out on its own. Underneath the pawl is a hole for the spring, and a small hollow plunger, which fits over the spring. These are tiny! Change spring, and replace the plunger over it. Now, this is where it gets awkward! Push assembly back into its hole, holding the plunger in position with your thumb while you replace the pawl over it, remembering what I told you about its offset groove. If you can keep the other one in position as you do this, it will only go back one way. Rounded end to the 'hinge' position. If you drop it, and it all falls apart, thats when you've got to take notice of which pawl goes where, because you now have two pawls loose on the bench! Daunting, but we all had to learn! Hold it down as you repeat the process with the other one. When finished, still holding both pawls down, insert the unit back into the shift drum, as per the manual. Another pair of hands might be helpful in your case, but not essential. It is fiddly, but not impossible with a bit of patience! Good luck!
As an afterthought, if you're really not comfortable doing it yourself, stick it in a Jiffy bag with new springs, and I'll do it for you!
Thank you so much for this long explanation. Sounds a little bit tricky too be honest.
Although i don't mind a good challenge, i'm really not sure if i should try that. I guess sometimes it's better to seek help and to know ones limits. And thank you for the kind offer, i will definitly think about it!
2 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:I mean just insert the shaft in the hole and try if it turns, without engaging gears etc. To see if it turns without resistance.
Oh, i tried that already. The shaft, when fully inserted, did turn way too hard. So i removed the rust film, polished the shaft and put some grease on it. It is now better,although there is still a little bit resistance i guess. Hard to tell if this is normal or not, cause i have nothing to compare it to.
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I thought about that too, cause the left alternator cover showes clear scars of a little slip and moving it, when its fully installed, was quite hard. But with the naked eye everything looks normal. A more experienced ex - mechanic dropped by yesterday and inspected it as well. He couldn't notize any bent either.
I haven't tried it without the spring, yet. Should i? What whould i expect when doing it?
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I did all that but unfortunatlely the problem remains the same. So i am going to order the springs (the big one and the small ones). First try the big one and test if it gets better and if not, i will ask someone for help. Should be able to register the bike, even though the shifting is little bit tricky and then i can drive to someone, with more experience.
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Just to make sure,you mean this spring?
Tried to adjust the spring as much as possible,but it did not solve the problem.
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Thank you so much for your help and guidance guys. I somehow have the feeling that it is still the spring on the shift lever. Instead of trying to increase the tension of spring, i tried the opposite. After watching the video multiple times i noticed that the spring wouldn't allow the lever to get into back into the right position. It wasn't going down all the way, if you know what i mean. Now, it's a little bit better but far from beeing right. So i will order new springs, one for the lever and two small ones in advance in case this does not help.
Also i will try to officially register the bike in order to take her to a mechanic if nothing works. In any case, i will keep you informed
Cheers and have a nice day
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Thanks Toni, i will of course read the manual before doing that and be very careful about the springs
Still not sure if i should seek help and let a more experienced guy do the job. But then again, i have no way to transport the bike and driving is not an option at the moment...
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Yeah, i saw that. Really grateful for that!
So i removed the gear lever, polished it, put some grease on it, increased the tension on the spring, put everything back aaaaand...the problem is still the same. Maybe say what now!? is right and it's the spring inside the two rectangular pieces.
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I am pretty sure he means the spring with the number 26, but i have no idea how he adjustet it in 20 seconds. Guess that you can't just remove the shifting shaft.
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Yup, same problem when the machine is running.
That guy here seemed to have the same problem, but i don't understand how he solved it. Unfortunately he didn't post the solution itself, only the problem.
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Removed the basket today and it isn't as notchy as expected. I also made a short video while testing the shifting. At 30s you can notice, that something does not work as it should. Gear 1 and 2 are pretty much possible without a problem, but before i want to shift to gear 3 or 4 or 5, i have to put slightly pressure on the shift lever. Then you can clearly see and hear what happens, as the spring gets into the right place.
Any guess how to fix that? And please excuse my poor english, but it is kinda hard to describe problems, i don't fully understand
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Damn it, i feared that answer. Hard to get, especially in a good condition. But i will keep my eyes open maybe i get lucky.
Thanks for the answer and help!
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I have the same "problem" with my GS 750 E. Whenever i lift the bike a little, the side stands snaps back into position, which is actually a little bit annoying. Guess i will try out a longer or weaker spring. Thanks Ade.
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
More than likely a notchy basket / hub especially if original ! If they are, then you could try redressing the faces - but it rarely works for more than a few months, replacement is the only cure (if it is that!)
Thought about that too and will have a look at it in the near future. Currently working on different things and the problem has to wait. Should i replace it with the original basket or are there other/better options? If it is that.
Cheers
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Adjusted it like in the manuals described, still the problem remains the same
Suzuki GS 750 - Won't start and other problems
in Air Cooled
Posted
Not sure if anyone is still interested but here is a little update.
I was able to detect the electrical issue after some testing. Turned out that i made mistake with the wiring of the "new" regulator from a Kawa GPZ 500 S.
As you probably all know, this is the original wiring of the GS:
And this is the one of the GPZ
Now i did the wiring like this: 3x yellow - alternator, white/red -> plus, black -> ground and brown -> orange (ignition plus?). Now the bike turns off as it should, although i'm not sure if brown is really connected correct. Well, time will tell.
Cheers