Ted M

That’s a dot head on that motor in the picture. It’ll have a serious CR if that’s on the 1340 motor

That intake port looks big enough to swallow a child

Can you confirm the carbs you are running. If they’re from the Mk 1 bandit then 3 turns out is too much they should be 1 3/4 turns out. The Mk 2 carbs are 3 turns out. If you need 3 turns on the Mk 1 carbs then your problem is in the pilot circuit either it’s blocked or you need a bigger jet

Going by the sprocket carrier the black one looks like a Bandit 12. But the adjuster are wrong.

Yes mate it should be blocked although I don’t know the material that the bung is made from.

I've run Bandit 12 wheels with standard discs on a WP 1100 front end. It needed a 2mm spacer (penny washer) on the calliper to fork mount for the callipers to run central.

Hi mate you’ll need a degree wheel, motion pro, APE amongst others do them. A dial gauge and mount machine mart and places like that. A piston stop again motion pro, APE et Al do these.

Be very careful with the 81mm pistons and a dot head set up as the CR might be that high you can run diesel. I was going to do something similar but using Wiseco pistons but I checked the CR and found it to be in the region of 15:1. Also the piston crown was running very close to the cylinder head.

It’s an interesting one almost like the cam chain isn’t sitting on the crank sprocket properly. I would speak to @fatblokeonbanditas he has built a couple of dot head 1200s. What is the purpose of polishing the oil pump?

Cheers mate

Afternoon oil cooled OSS land. I need a favour. I need to know the width of a B12 mk1 front wheel spindle and the width of a GSXR 1100 usd forks front wheel spindle (any model as long as they’re upside down forks). It’s a complicated tale but I’ve got 2 wheel spindles off a GSXR 1100 with usd forks (allegedly) both are the same width and both aren’t wide enough to go completely through both sides. Once I know the width of said wheel spindles no doubt it will throw up more questions. But at the moment it’s doing my head in. Many thanks in advance and a beer to the first one who gets the answer

@fatblokeonbanditmany thanks bud I’ve got it done now. I used 2 tyre levers with a little bit of pressure and it came off no problem. I had tried them before but I must have positioned them too far under the gear ring as it was flexing when I applied pressure. This time I positioned them just under the alternator gear ring and they came off no dramas.

If you’re going to do big bore and cams there’s no point in swapping as you can do the same to a B12 engine for the same outcome. It’ll also take a bigger bore (81 mm) before machining crankcases and using big blocks.

No worries mate I appreciated the reply anyway

No mate putting the clutch basket back in. I can’t believe I’ve been so stupid it even says in the Haynes manual to be careful. I’ve now got to strip it to find/check for the missing gear tooth (I found 2). I managed to get a complete clutch with good plates but the basket was damaged in transit hence the reason I need to remove the gear ring to swap it over.