Cunnerz77
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Posts posted by Cunnerz77
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On 10/14/2022 at 9:03 PM, MarsN said:
Ok that’s good to know. Sounds like OEM springs can handle a little more weight and lift than OEM specs.
btw, the reason I was wondering about SS valves in OEM guides is that I read a couple articles that mentioned stainless steel needing bronze guides as ss can have friction issues with other metals. However, the ss valves sold for our bikes at least, have either chromed, or nitrided stems. I assume this is for friction reduction so makes the guide material less significant.
Nitriding is just for surface hardening and reducing wear.
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On 9/6/2017 at 8:42 PM, clivegto said:
Hacksawd the arm in 1/2 at the pivot tube tonight. Need a 13mm spacer making up & welding in then re-weld the brace back in. Sort the top shock mount out on the top brace. Get drag slots made get them welded in, may use stepped drag slots, we will see. Braced will be at least 75mm forward of where they were. Pics are just a mock up.
Blimey...ballsy work!
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My K1 marchessinis went straight in the SRAD, but front and rear need a couple of spacers. Pretty sure you can make it work without major mods.
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Fantastic wrenching Sander - really well documented too.
Love these winter escapes you're doing as well!
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Ya learn something new everyday. I started here thinking you'd shoehorned the 1100 in. Absolutely mega bike and love all the flash bits.
Just read a bit on the model. Very interesting.
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On 12/20/2016 at 9:06 PM, busa1300 said:
Copy any of it you want, that's why I'm showing all I did...
Since I had it running now, and almost had brakes (still having bleeding/internal leaking/flexing caliper...? issues of some kind) It needed to get off the operating table, and work up its strength a bit. Plus, I was worried that at some point it might ride itself off the table while running
And I had that bike out of the box (remember the box I had to open...?), which was waiting for the table in need of some surgery as well.
I still needed to get the inside of the tank cleaned up (scale, and crusted on old gas) before I could use it, And I had to rebuild my fuel tap too.
But it did finally make it out in the sun, even if it wasn't quite ready to ride on the road yet.
Outstanding. Such a clean build.
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On 12/16/2016 at 1:25 AM, busa1300 said:
Once I got the CBX going again, I spent a bit of time playing with the GS... I knew what parts I didn't want on it, but was not sure the parts I did want to use
So it was time to dig in.....
Love that you chose the ET swingy. Its actually what caught my eye first when I saw @Jelly's 816 GSX...which is consequently now under my supervision.
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On 12/15/2016 at 11:30 PM, busa1300 said:
Even though I had planned on parting it out....that ugly fairing had to come off before I would park it in the garage....
I love this story already. Carry on.
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33 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
Love Zandvoort. Did some the Malboro masters meetings years ago. What are the noise limits for trackday there?
I havent been to Zandfort but I think its probably the same as Assen - will find out. I had a rudimentary db killer in my Yoshi duplex at Assen, and had no problems at all. All the locals thought it was fine. Having said that we did also have Hans on side, who had conveniently mislaid his db meter...
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Cheers @dupersunc! I hear Zandfort is almost as good as Assen, 40 mins from my place too - will happily provide beers, shed and beds for travellers or anyone needing it.
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Just now, dupersunc said:
10mm iirc on the dog bones.
Alright sweet, got a plan. Thanks for the help chap.
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30 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
My 750m with 1127 motor had the rear jacked up 30mm. WP rear shock, 180/60 rear tyre.
Front was stock but with 9.5 springs. Ran no steering damper, never felt the need.
Certainly wasn't twitchy.
Outstanding! Brilliant video.
How much shorter were the dog bones to get 30mm higher? Or was that 30mm on the dog bones?
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5 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
6mm cold rolled steel will be fine.
The m model gsxr 750 had an adaptor between frame and fairing bracket. I assume this is so they can use the fair bracket on the 1100 and 750. The whole top fairing and side panels are different between the 1100 and 750 to allow for the different handlebar positions.
Gotcha, thanks. Just spent a fortune on fairings and paint etc so I really should have asked this question before!
One more question sir - If I raise the back by 10mm on the dog bones, and leave the front at the same height....I assume it would then be overly twitchy? What sort of angle do you winged hammers run on your bikes? The bottom of my frame is at this moment completely level.
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7 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
Shorten the dog bones. It's the most effective way and has little effect on the rest of the system.
Your set up is a little awkward but but get some new bone water jet cut 10mm shorter and get a space machine up to go between them. Dont need to be welded together.
At the front can you fit the 750 fairing bracket adaptor top fairing to clear the handlebars.
More ride height definetly helps with handling. 180/60 rear works well too.
Brilliant thanks very much! Understood on the dog bones and thats great that they dont need to be welded. Do you know if they are particular type of steel or would regular cold rolled plate be OK?
On the 750 - I didnt quite understand this. So I need a 750 nose, and an adapter to make it work with the rest of the 1100 fairing?
Thanks again. Very helpful.
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Awesome (stop laughing at the back) water cooled pics
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
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