BoostedRooster712

36mm, same as the other slingshot ones I have here such as the 17D (88-89) 750.

The BST40 on the RK had quick release top caps, just a useless piece of information from an obsessive, anorak wearing, rivet counting RK lover.

These are perfect for my BST38s, they fit like a finger into a bum.

No worries, with these, another set coming and a different set I have here that the carbs fall out of I have the market covered in useless NOS parts that don't fit what I need them to.

They arrived today. Stock RK rubbers in SGP packaging with Suzuki part numbers still on them. ID is 44mm. RS38s fall out of them, not even close unfortunately.

I'll let you know early next week. They should be here in a few days and I'll try them with my 38s.

Found some inlet rubbers whilst parts searching recently that are reasonably priced and are designed to suit the RK 40mm CVs. These are the rubbers Yoshimura recommend for the large bodied TMR carbs. I have a set on the way, got them for AUD$150 at auction plus freight from Japan. I'll put pics and measurements up when they arrive. Yoshi part number 1310S-07D02 Google "1310S-07D02" and you may find them locally if you have a yoshi importer. Webike Japan have them. https://japan.webike.net/products/24734934.html Many of the OEM inlet rubbers have become discontinued as you're probably aware. Hope this helps someone out.

I've been a bit concerned about that. I have a RG250 outlet in the tank which let's me feed to a remote tap. The tap was fine with CVs but I'm not sure if it will with flatslides. This is how it looks on a diagram. I have two pingel taps, the dual outlet high flow one has bugger all chance of fitting in 7/12 as it is massive. The other is a standard pingel. I'll have to see if I can find taps for each outlet to put in the fuel lines. I've bought some metal dry break connectors but plugging and unplugging them all the time will be a PITA. What solution did you use?

I have a set of RS38s as well, I plan on running them back to back on the dyno against whatever FCR I buy. FCRs are getting harder to find down here. I found a set of 41s in New York but when you add freight in and they were stated as doing hardly any work but had been rebuilt (why if they've done hardly any work?) I decided to pull the pin. There's a set of 39s at work, I saw them being rebuilt last year, I'm just having trouble extracting them from the boss who in his 70s, still likes to hoard nice parts he'll never use. Looks like you can still get 39s new, just not 41s. https://www.keihin-fcr.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=68&product_id=72

Thanks for all the great input gents. A bit of history on this engine, with stage 1 cams, no other valve train changes, the mild porting and a set of 38mm CVs, is has put out 145 hp at the rear wheel. That seemed more than enough back then but that was a long time ago. I remember it being what I thought at the time, an absolute torque monster. There's a set of 39s at work which have just recently been rebuilt. If I can finally convince my boss to sell them to me I will give them a try. If I find them a bit asthmatic I will chase a set of 41s.

Howdy, I'm wanting to get another set of carbs for the 1216 in the RK. I've decided FCRs are the go for various reasons. I'm struggling to work out if I should go 39 or 41mm FCRs. It's an 1127 out of an 1100 K. Head is mildly ported, stage 2 yoshi cams, wiseco R1216 kit which I've seen quoted between 12:1 and 13:1 compression, kibblewhite heavy duty valve springs and abuso oversize valves and titanium retainers. Adjustable cam sprockets and cams will be dialled in to spec. Exhaust is a full Skorpion (akrapovic) 4 into 1 system. Ignitech ignition system. Bottom end is solid with carrillo rods. Drag racing isn't on the cards, just spirited road riding and the occasional track day. I'm leaning towards the 39s but the go big or go home part of my mind has driven me to come here to seek your opinions. With these specs I have not upgraded the cylinder studs, I guess I proably should get my hands on some APE ones. Thoughts on that as well? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I stopped bidding on those carbs when they got to half the price of a new set. I think I'll get some FCRs instead.

Clearance from frame and fuel tap were my main concerns.

Thank you gents.

G'Day, I'm looking at a set of TMR MJN 39mm carbs with a side pull configuration. They're stated as being off an 1100 with the correct spacing. As they are going on a 7/12 I'd like to convert them to centre pull. Do any of you know if this is a relatively easy job or is it difficult? I'm not finding a lot of information out therre for them.

Bit OT for this thread but I'm considering adding a head cooler to the Martek. The existing cooler is pretty small and I'll be mainly riding it in warm weather. With the extra heat from the turbo I can't see it being a disadvantage. Thoughts?

Worked it out for oil pressure, this between the back of the engine and the head. If that doesn't work I can go oil feed to turbo which would be a good pressure reading to monitor. These sensors will do the trick for both oil and fuel. I think that has my perverse need for data covered.

Not using the stock dash and idiot lights. Factory switch is just a threshold, I'd like a pressure reading for both fuel and oil.

I was looking at those, the thread for the sensors is correct but the thread on the other ends is BSPT instead of NPT. On the right path though. This looks like an option too.

My turbo oil feed exits there so I'm going to have to look at other options. I'm good for temp sensors, have one in the sump.

I don't believe I have the provision to shut down the engine with this ECU but I can have an alarm on the dash when the pressure drops below x.

Good idea. I might give one of these a try. www.race-technology.com/au/racing/sensors-and-accessories/pressure-sensors/pressure-sensors_oil-fuel-pressure

I wonder if there is a switch the same size and thread that reads pressure and when calibrated to either dash or ECU that can tell me what PSI oil pressure I'm running.

Is anyone able to tell me what ohms range the standard Suzuki OEM oil pressure switch work on that is in most oil cooled engines? I can't run my engine at the moment to test but I would like to hook it up to my race technology Dash2 if possible or an input on the microsquirt.

I've sold penty of DID 219 cam chains when OEM was a backorder.