BanditPervert

The choke doesn’t seem to affect the idle at all, I have the mixture screws out at 2. Do you think the 102.5 oil feed restrictor is a bit big? I also have an -6 fittings on the drain side of the turbo so maybe that could do with being a little bigger

I've used a standard bandit carb jet (102.5) as a restrictor

(B12 blow through set up) Ran the bike up the road today and F*** me does she pull, revs went up smoothly and power feels brilliant. It idles high at about 3-4k, tried adjusting the tick over screw but no difference so assuming its an air leak of some sort, it's also burning oil from the turbo outlet and dosent go away even running the oil pump for a few minutes. Apart from that it just seemed to be stupidly hot!!! As always, any help is much appriciated. After that feeling from the first run i'm desperate to get it MOT'd and start abusing it.

I’m positive it’s connected correctly, i cut a single coil off the spring and got down to 2 so could snip a bit more off and get to 1. I guess every little helps but didn’t think it would be an issue at 2

Where does the 1 to 2 psi come from originally, is there a sweet spot to aim for or just low enough for the float tabs to handle?

The floats and o rings are about 3 months old, they have been sat in there with no fuel for that time.

Was just under 2psi, didn’t think that would be enough to overcome the tabs though

Finally started the bike yesterday and ran lovely for around 30 seconds, sounded great raving up and down to 3/4 throttle. Turned it off and fuel pissed out the turbo outlet, pulled carbs and cylinder 1 full of fuel and 2,3 and 4 were a little wet on the inlet rubbers. when I started it, I let the oil pump run for 30 seconds, switched on fuel pump, just below 2psi from gauge, and then started the bike. I have the floats at 16mm, the vents pressurised from the pilot tube on the charge pipe, and the fpr fed from one of the carb tops. im guessing that the float on number 1 was not seating correctly but not sure why the others were wet. any advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks

Ok thanks for the response.

*correction Float bowl vents are fed from pilot tube in charge pipe before BOV.

So finally fixed my earlier f***up and have the engine and turbo back on the bike. have started plumbing up the fpr, pump and plenum but getting my wires crossed with the vacuum/ pressure references. had a look at previous threads and seems some people are using carb tops to feed fpr, am I reading this right? I have BOV, gauge and float vents fed from plenum, in wastegate fed from compressor outlet housing and FPR from linked carb tops.

Quick update the machine shop tested the valves for me and all were fine. Pulled the barrels to see if there was anything in there... I’ve obviously bent a ring on cyl 2 when installing them. Guess that explains the lower compression reading on that cylinder, so engine is coming out again as I find it a sod to get the barrels back on when in the bike. Thanks for the help and I’ll be back when I’ve sorted this cluster***k

Thanks

I had a 30 degree angle put on the valves when I had the seats cut, so I’ve dropped the head off to have the same angle cut and the new ones lapped.

Luckily I have a spare set of inlet valves, (although they don’t have a lovely back cut like these) so will lap those in tomorrow. Has anyone re used a Cometic head gasket before?

They all look like that, think it’s just the camera lighting. I’m not sure but I think they had that mark when I first got them. im trying to find the photo.

Got the head off and all looks to be fine, chambers hold fluid ok and no bubbles. can’t understand if that compression reading was normal. Gasket is fine and everything was torqued to the APE settings.

I don’t have a tiny camera and this build has stretched the funds further Than I thought they would go!! I’ll get the head off tomorrow and see what damage has been done. thanks

Wet test shows +10 psi on cyls 1,3 and 4 but only + 4psi on cyl 2. motor has busa pistons and standard rods.

Ok so pulled the valve cover off and timing has jumped a few teeth, manual adjuster wound it’s way back out, probably due to me not tightening the locking nut. not sure if I’ve bent a valve or there has been any contact. Compression test on cold engine shows around 110 on cylinders 1,3 and 4. Cylinder 2 shows 102. any ideas what it should be showing cold. And is 8psi indicating a bent valve?

Already looked at that and I’m pretty sure they’re right

Uploaded vid to the tube

Need help with getting it running, first start Monday and ran on 3 cylinders, carb 3 overflowing fitted new float valves and seats, set float heights to 15mm, mixture screws 1 3/4 turns out and stock jets. carbs back on and primed, no leaks. Turned over without plugs and all seems fine, choke on and I get the stumble and popping. Choke off and nothing. the turbo is only plumbed on the exhaust side. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thanks I do have a video but not sure if I can upload on here.