BanditPervert

I guessed it may take a bit fuckery to get working but it was more to do with the taper shape on the end of the needle. think your right and I’ll stick to the stock ones unless I can find a measurement to replicate. thanks for the response

Does anyone know if the dynojet needles are suitable for the stock main jets. I have the 102.5s installed as I’ve read on here that the stock jetting is fine for the turbo set up. Been running it today but the mixture is way too rich/ new plugs black. thanks

Got it now thanks and yes cable routing seemed to be the issue. seems like any slight bend on these stop it from sliding freely.

Hi all fitted a busa front end to the bandit and I’m now finding the throttle won’t close. could this Be due to cable routing? I can’t see any obvious restrictions and it springs back when cables not attached to throttle tube. any help much appreciated. cheers

Perfect thank you, that’s exactly what I was looking for. ive never done a turbo bike before or ridden one so still not sure what to expect, I’m hoping for a nice surprise. does really run out of fuel that quickly?

Wasn’t sure weather to start a new thread or not, but with regards to the fueling, do I need to remove the vacuum from the fuel tap? I have an Osias high pressure fuel pump with a fpr and in line filter, will the vaccuum from the carbs still be ok to use? thanks

Got a td05 in the end as it was refurbished and not too expensive. Ill be keeping an eye out for an IHI one though as that sounds like the one to use. thanks for all the advice

I’ve looked at the IHI’s And read the Spondon article online and saw he used the vf23, none around at the moment though. clive, was it a 16t you had before, I’ve seen a 19t but I’m not sure if would physically be to large. Cheers

Hi all I’ve been been looking at previous threads and see the popular choice for the bandit 12 blow job is a TD04 or TD05. i gather the 04 is better suited to quick spooling and the 05 for higher up. im looking to get a fleabay one either refurbished or new copy, has anyone had strong results with any others. details are 1216 busa pistons, blow through arrangement and some good prep work, (HD APE stuff). Thanks

I’m having an issue getting the gears and shift mechanisms to line up correctly. can anyone tell me the how to line it up for the neutral position? any help is much appreciated

You got it

That makes a lot more sense that the main nut is discarded, I’m an electrical engineer by trade but an enthusiastic amateur when it comes to fabricating mechanical design and fab. i e already drawn the lock up plate and think 16 aluminium should be strong enough to make it out of.

Pun intended

Is that adapter thread for the shaft? i saw a bandit one on a previous thread and it looked the same.

I’ve seen a few different shaped ones, some look like they have 4 bolt sleeves extruding from the rear of it. the diaphragm one I gather also needs an adapter that has a thread on it, I can’t see what threads into though. im all up for attempting it, mostly due to the £450 for an off the shelf one, that’s pretty much a months funds right there

Haha yes I’ve been N/A tuning them for years/ big bores, cams etc thought id finally give one a blow job. ive seen a few people swap to a GSXR before the lock up, I don’t see the point in that if your going lock up anyway. I do have access to a CNC workshop, so I may try to draw one up and have that made although I’m not sure I’d do the real ones justice.

Think I may stick with the stock rods and big end bearings, there were only 20,000 miles on them. I’ve got the new mains and thrust washers, Is the lock up clutch a soul outlet necessary or is there a way to beef up the standard one. thought about trying to turn down the springs and use a nut and bolt arrangement through the retainer plate.

Am hoping for north of 250, APE rods? I haven’t seen those available.

Hi all I have the rolling chassis built and am now starting to put the motor back together, ( a lot more expensive than I first realised just to get to this point) I’m now peeping the bottom end, I’ve got busa pistons and GSXR1100 cams for the top, has anyone changed the bottom end at all? I am looking to get the APE studs and cam chain, and replace the gear train bearings, just wondering if there’s anything else I should be doing while down there? cheers

Ah I see, was this mounted on the charge pipe? ive seen a few mounted into the silicone hose, how would you seal it if so. btw this is my first turbo build so I’m trying to learn the mistakes as well as the “how to’s”. cheers

Clive that is a massive help , thank you. i have all the parts ready to build the rolling chassis, and will be sending the engine cases etc for powder coating at the end of the month. iv’e read varying opinions on here about taking the pilot tube from the plenum or the charge pipe and using a carb jet to adjust. is that what the smaller pipe on your plenum is?

I will happily take photos when I get back from work. I have done alot of research on the turbo build for the bandit and am preparing the engine for the increase in power, Busa pistons, studs, cam chain, all bearing and shells replaced, Td05 turbo with internal wastegate and a bigger rad. the problem I have is that I can’t mount the engine in the frame yet so don’t know the clearance I have available for a plenum. With it getting closer to summer, I was hoping to get this designed ready to strap on. am happy to do the reading if necessary, just need pointing in the right direction.

Have looked in the posts and can’t find the relative info. and why would the material need to be thicker than 3mm?

Hi all am halfway through the full bike rebuild and would really like to get the plenum made up ready to weld while I’m waiting for machining and powder coating to be done, the engine is all stripped so can’t mock up a plenum with the carbs mounted. anyone have an idea on dimensions, am looking at using 3mm ally sheet.

Has anyone used a td04 on a bandit 12, if so what fuelling did you use, control ect?