Jonny
-
Posts
363 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Jonny
-
-
This doesn't sound to me like an issue caused by compression.
If it were me, I'd try another set of carbs on it first. Sounds like you've already done all the things that would idenitfy the usual issues. If it works with different carbs, you know it's the carbs. You might have some sort of blockage in one of the fuel circuits responcible for idling. It take it you have completely striped and (ultrasonic) cleaned the carbs?
-
Never found anything that worked properly. Gave up looking years ago.
This is probably as close as you’ll find: https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/294773789548?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=L7BZvGFwT-6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=dppzeNacS2q&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
-
I have 400 Blandit clocks on an EFE-powered Gs750, but replaced the speedo with a GPS unit. I’m guessing your question is about how to fit the speedo drive on the GSX sprocket cover?
-
On 4/16/2024 at 10:19 PM, Matt-Man said:
I’ve done this conversion a few times into TL1000’s which run the same wheels as the Busa.
Theres 2 types of OZ wheels. The Gen 1 Forged OZ wheels have a narrower hub which is the same width as the Brembo Wheels.
The Gen 2 OZ wheels have a stamped Rim with EVO written into them.
Beware. There are also some Aprilia wheels that look like the OZ wheels but are cast alloy and not forged. They have then word Aprilia cast into them so ignore the OZ decals and look for the castings. OZ wheels have the word OZ stamped into the recess on the hubs.
Borh wheels run 25.0mm ID bearings and the front can be made to fotttje TL/ Busa with 2 x spacers that recess into the wheel.
You will need to shim out the discs as on the Gen 2 wheels the hub is a lot narrower. The Aprilia discs are offset where as the Busa / TL discs are flat. RSV / RSVR and RSV4 front discs are all the same so any will do.
Gen 2 wheels need 2 x 2.0mm shims
Gen1 and Brembo 5 spoke wheels need 3.5mm per side (irrc)
Rear is a little more complex-
Reay wheel bearings in the Busa are 28mm and 25mm on the Aprilia.
No bearing swap is available so you need to shim the axle where it passes through the swingarm and the chain adjusters.
A 2006 ZX6R axle is the right size.
You will need to do 525 chain conversion or get Talon to do you a special rear sprocket in 530.
You also need the complete rear braking system too. Caliper and Hanger.
You need a custom spacer to the sprocket side and a 2.5mm spacer that fits between the swingarm and the caliper hanger….
I cut the caliper hanger down and use the Swingarm bobbin mount to fit the beak torque arm on the TL’s but the Busa shouldn’t be much different.
good luck
Thanks for this info. Super helpful! I have copied and pasted it so I can find it later.
-
Hi there,
Quick one: I am running an EFE motor with non-standard clocks and no longer have the oil temp gauge in the cluster. I want to add one and was wondering if I can connect any electric temp gauge to the EFE sender or if the senders work differently. ie I need to match the sender to the gauge?
Thanks,
Jon
-
On 8/20/2023 at 1:37 AM, Digs said:
I fitted a k3 arm to my 7/11 build, but I designed the linkage from scratch around 3d scans and simple BREP models of the frame and components. In the end I used a Showa BFRC shock from a 2018 gsxr 1000r as I had some fouling issues with my original bmw shock and then other issues with the Kawasaki shock... But, there are definitely other ways to do it and achieve similar results.
If you want minimal modifications the big thing you need to do - to make your life easy - is replicate the lower shock mounting position. The original lower mount location will make your life a nightmare if you try and use it. Also - as mentioned above by @Upshotknothole- the top shock mount needs to come out a fair way. You can get ballpark for this with a decent side elevation photo of the bike.
Definitely check out @davecara’s thread too, he’s put a lot of good info up and done alot of the hard work.
Food for thought:You need to work out the motion ratio you’re aiming for.
You need to make sure the mounts you make can take the loads applied (they’re big)
what’s your static swingarm angle?
How much sag will you have?
Does the shock you are planning on using have the correct spring rate?
Are you getting the shock revalved?
The k3 swingarm has a 28mm axle, what wheel are you using?
it’s also a good idea to test the range of motion without the shock spring, helps you spot potential issues before finding out about them while riding.
light reading:
http://www.promecha.com.au/leverage_linkages.htm
https://www.datamc.org/data-acquisition/suspension-data-analysis/anti-squat-geometry/
technical reading:
https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11081-019-09475-w
Couple of useful diagrams:
books that might help:
https://www.classicbikehub.uk/News/article/motorcycle-modification-keeping-your-project-safe
Just to add to the reading list, I can recommend Motorcycle Tuning: Chassis by John Robinson. It's like my Bible.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Motorcycle-Tuning-Chassis-John-Robinson/dp/0434917249
-
1
-
-
Really helpful! Thanks for the info.
when you lined it up, did the chain alignment look good?
-
1
-
-
Hi there,
I have seen the swap done before and like the idea of upgrading to the OZ wheels. Anyone know what is involved in the conversion?
I'm pretty sure I'll need spacers but what about disc offsets, chain aliagnment and spindles? I'd like to be able to cost it up full first as the wheels from eBlag will be around £800 on their own.
Thanks.
Jon
-
The photo attached shows the standard settings for 36mm carbs on a K and L model (89 and 90).
-
4 hours ago, Rijko said:
According to the document, there are at least 3 types of cams : 100/111/125 HP, the D cams being the faster ones.
Ah okay. I knew there was a D-stamp in there somewhere.
-
I’ve never had a set rechromed but have bought a few sets from ABE in Greenwich over the years. They used to be £180 p/pair and I never had to buy a second pair for the same bike again.
-
On 11/13/2023 at 12:12 PM, Arttu said:
In case of the EFE the restriction is done by the cams.
I seem to remember reading on another thread that the restricted cams were stamped with a ‘D’ for Deutschland.
-
On 10/27/2023 at 9:13 PM, DaveWhisper said:
Thanks, I’ll have a look into that.
it’s a Koso Rx52 gps
rev counter seems fine but the speed goes up and down with the bike sitting still.
Ive found a manual for it online but haven’t had a look yet.
I’d try taping the pick up to the top of the seat, or somewhere where it is not enclosed, and take it up the road. You’ll know then if it’s a location issue with the pick up or not.
-
I have a GPS speedo too. The pickup probably needs moving rather any setting up. Mine is under the tail unit but if it is not in just the right place you get that fluctuation.
Great looking bike BTW!
-
At least that is enough time for a new build!
-
7 hours ago, Dezza said:
750L,M also have a spigot for the vacuum take-off on carb rubber 4.
Don’t suppose it really matters. IMHO, 2 is probably the closest so probably best.
-
7 hours ago, Dezza said:
One of the carb rubbers should have a take-off for the vacuum for the OEM fuel tap. The take-offs on the carbs are for connecting your Carbtune when balancing the carbs. Be carefull faffing with these as they break easily. The top breather thingy would have a hose connected with the other end going into the airbox.
I have an 1100L and the vacuum take off comes from carb 2. I thought they were all done like that?
-
The switches are fairly simple to rebuild. Often just dismantling and cleaning the connections will have it working like new. You can get many of the internal parts from Suzuki still.
-
On 2/20/2023 at 1:32 PM, Mike711 said:
I had a 1000 motor in my 750 then swapped it to an 1100ET & can confirm the head & barrels can be removed in situ without touching engine mounts.
Really? That’s interesting because I have an 1100ef motor in a ‘78 750 frame and the engine has to come out to take the heads off. It’s about an inch too short on clearance.
-
1
-
-
You could always buy some GS spokies and have wider rims laced on!
That would be very cool!
-
1
-
-
OEM is the best. Most aftermarket kits aren’t up to the job on these bikes. I’ve heard good things about APE Trac King clutches though…
-
NGKs are great leads to use. I swear by them but Taylor leads are the most popular and about half the price.
-
Cable choke and pull choke are created using the same throttle bodies. On the cable choke models the holes on the carbs for the pull choke mechanism aren’t drilled out, but you can see them on the bodies. So you can convert either way.
-
I normally buy something from used from Eblag (Nissin/Brembo/Tokico) and then get a rebuild kit, if needed. At least you know you can always get the parts.
New year, same old carb issue. (idle rpm)
in Air Cooled
Posted · Edited by Jonny
I've heard many stories of bikes running poorly with pod filters (espceially single pods), but not at idle. The draw is so low it shouldn't matter. Plus there's no airflow issues because you're stationary at idle. I run an 1100EFE motor in a GS750 frame and also use K&Ns (twin ovals) and have never had an issue like this.
Maybe the guy with the 82 GSX hadn't rejetted the carbs to run without the airbox...
What are you using to balance them? Might be worth putting some gauges on when it's doing this and see if one carb is dropping when warm.