Jonny

You could get a spare one cheap from Eblag, drill it out and see what goes on inside. They must have got it in there somehow.

Looks like you might have a key number stamped on there? 413? Might be a good place to start. I don't know about these locks but it maybe that you can lift out the bolt once it is unlocked?

Not that site in particular but a couple in France and Holland. Trouble is you add shipping and tax and your at £300

At least! I picked this unused R/H one up cheap a while back. Just need the left one now…

As everyone else has said the 4-pots are actually better calipers. Let me rephrase that: they work just as well if not better with the original master cylinder and are more reliable (need striping and cleaning less often). I had the six-pots on my gen 1 Busa and rebuilt them properly. They were fine after that but were no better than the 4-pots on my GSXR (the Busa was about 20kg heavier). I kept the 6-pots on for originality but would not retrofit them to replace the 4-pots. The best 90mm-hole calipers are the Shindy Nissin 6-pots, if you can find them.

Thanks mate! I was trying to run the cable down the right side of the frame. I'll try it the other side, and hopefully things will line up. Jon

I do have the factory manual but it seems to start with the K model. The problem is with the main loom where it exits the frame (marked with an arrow below). It seems to have bends already in it that seem to fit with it running around the perimeter of the frame, but that leaves me with 4 or 5 inches too much at the headlamps. Also the anti-drive wiring seems to be about 8 inches too long. If you can post a photo that would be really helpful. Jonny

Hi there, Has anyone got a photo of the wiring under the tank, like the one below. I’m trying to de-streetfighter my slabby. I have got the clip-ons and headlight bracket on but I seem to have too much loom, even though I’m using the original wiring.

I can’t see why they wouldn’t. You may need to play with the jetting depending which bike they were set up for.

There is a great deal of knowledge on this site, so I’m sure someone will be able to give you a better answer than me, but here’s what I got: Any Slingshot (3-spoke) 17” wheels will fit within the standard forks, although they don’t centre. It will sit 2mm to the right , so you will need to lose 2mm from the left side. I believe shimming it from the speedo is a popular solution. You’ll need to use a slingy speedo, as a slabbie one won’t work on the 17” slingy wheel. And the cables are slightly different, you need to modify the speedo cable to fit or buy a slingy one. You can bore the spindle holes in the forks out for the 20mm spindle (yours should be 15mm), or you could sleeve everything down to 15mm. You’ll need the right bearings and the slingy speedo will need a bush. All 88 to 91 750s and 89 to 91 1100s all use a 20mm spindle and have a 17 x 3.5 inch rim. You’ll need the slingshot discs and the calipers from a slabby 1100, as the 86 750 discs were only 300mm, as opposed to the 310mm on the slabby 1100 and on slingshots. Of course, slingshot calipers won’t fit your slabby forks, so need to make sure you get 1100 slabby calipers. On the rear it is easier. I believe the disc bolt pattern between the 86 750 and the 88 750 is the same, although the discs are different. So, I think you can bolt your original disc onto the new wheel and use your original caliper and caliper bracket (don’t quote me on that). The 90 750 and 89 1100 (and later) wheels are different and you would need to use the later sprocket carrier and disc, caliper and caliper hanger. You will also need to file a bit of the caliper torque arm for clearance. You’ll have to do a bit of dicking about with spacers, however, you can probably get the whole lot quite cheap. All rears use the 20mm spindle. They went from 4.5 to 5.5 width in 1990 (on the 1100, possibly 91 on the 750 - not sure) so if you want to fit a 180 after all, this is what you need.

Can’t guarantee it as they change the numbers of splines and diameter of the output shaft over the years but it looks right.

Ah yes - I remember that too. I checked my notes and I think it's there's a bunch that have an 8mill offset. (ZZR/ZX6/etc). But a lot of them run 520 or 525 chains though.

Now I’ve said that I’m not sure I am using a 5/8ths, I’ll have to check but I am running a 180 so maybe.

Depends on the gearing you want to use. I prefer a 17 on the front as you get a bit more clearance on over the swing arm pivot. I have a 5/8ths offset but 3/8ths may be enough for you. I ended up getting mine sent from Japan but SPS have them also. https://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/search.php?q=offset+sprocket

You’ll need to machine down the the sprocket carrier face where the sprocket bolts on. This will need to be done on a lathe so it’s 100% straight. The one in the picture is from a Busa but you get the idea. The holes won’t change. You’ll have to work out how much you need to take off yourself as it will depend on the individual parts you have used. If you take a lot off (5mm or more) you may want to cut the bolts down as they will poke through further.