wsn03
-
Posts
365 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by wsn03
-
-
Not what you asked for but years ago for mine we took photos of every sticker, then traced the outline.
Gave it to a sign writer
First attempt wrong colours
Second attempt perfect.
These days I'd have thought you could enlarge a photo to the exact right size quite easily - when I did it digital images and scanners didn't exist
-
I was told to source off an 1100G...so 1986 - 1987 (im sure the H are the same)? Same dimensions that fit my 750F so no need to change rubbers
-
5 hours ago, billd said:
Posted in air cooled by mistake! So posting again here.
Struggling with VM29's on a 1985 GSXR750F, may persevere but is there a better carb that offers smooth idle and good throttle response? Not interested in increased performance and want to run the original air box and filter. Your comments please
1100G Carbs, tried and tested and on mine - smooth as you like.
I did this conversion with feedback from an ex TT racer supported by Dynojet who did all the research to achieve a more ride-able power delivery. CVs from an 1100 G, Dynojet Stage 1, original airbox and filters. Had a hole drilled in the slides by a rolling road, seemed to help - its super smooth all round
They fit with original rubbers and airbox
-
7 hours ago, Macduff said:
If I knew it was such a fabled process to fit I would have taken pictures and notes
, & I wasn't aware of it being a PITA task until after I did it and may have struck lucky with the correct twist on getting it in. As it was I remember it trying to refit the carbs afterwards with age hardened airbox rubbers was a far harder more frustrating job.
Your legend will alas be swept away by the tide of history without proof, tragic. Your brilliance with the airbox (Sir I salute you) is however outclassed by your utter stupidity fortrying to fit carbs with age hardened rubbers...though I do confess to being this stupid myself (repeatedly) once upon a time....before I stopped being tight.
Even with soft new rubber I am fascinated by the airbox rubbers. On every joyous occasion I refit them I often think of the great man who must have designed that configuration. My life's dream is actually to meet him, to get into his mind, to try to understand him...and then to kick him hard and squarely in the bollox. Take that for the fucking misery I've suffered you utter fucking wanker!!!
I need counselling when I think too hard about it
-
3
-
-
Just found this on Wrongopedia - so the single seat is G onwards. If you have a 2 part seat you've most likely got an F:
GSX-R750 (F) 1985[edit]
The original model featured a lightweight aluminum alloy frame, flatslide carbs, twin discs with 4-pot calipers, and 460-millimetre (18 in) tyres both front and rear. To save weight, the designers specified an air-and-oil-cooled engine, rather than a water-cooled engine. The seat has separate front and rear sections but from 1986 onwards all models have a one-piece seat.[3]
GSX-R750 (G) 1986[edit]
The 1986 model received a 25 mm longer swing arm to improve the handling. Apart from a modified belly pan and upgraded headlamps there is very little difference between the 1985 and 1986 models. 1986 is the first year the model was introduced to the US.
-
19 hours ago, Macduff said:
Its been a while but I managed to get an airbox into my 750slabby without removing the engine. I think I pulled the carbs and it was like a krypton factor puzzle working out which way to twist turn it getting it in. Some other bits may need pulling to get clearance but I definitely didn't take the engine out.
?!?! How did you manage that?? Bet that was a bit of a job
-
On 3/8/2019 at 6:13 PM, Mercwagonman said:
The bike was a street fighter, with missing parts, and someone before me has started to get bits to return it to stock.
I seem to be missing lots of bits of the rear plastics...will be looking for those!
Are the 34mm CVs a good conversion on the 750??
Hello, welcome.
Yes, the 34mm are a good conversion - I didn't get on with the original flat sides at all. A guy I used to know raced a 750F at the TT - the 1100 conversion I mention in my previous post gave him the rideability he needed for the TT course. It transformed my bike.
The other must have mod is to bin the original coils, they are crap and give up making it run like a pig. I fitted Dyna coils in the late 90s, but I've read on here the newer Dyna coils are garbage - if you can get the big old green ones they are good. Otherwise people seem to be going for the stick conversions.
I have an original 750F import.
The differences between F & G as far as I can tell:
1. Belly Pan (and the original is actually fibreglass while the rest of the fairing is plastic
2. Middle fairing panels (the way the air vents are laid out)
3. Battery box - appears to have an extra mounting on the G below the box I think it is
4. Original silencer is pepperpot, G is slats
5. Swinging arm - shorter, creates minor wobble so most were binned for longer ones
6. On import red and black bikes the 2 part seat is in red, the Gs were black and I think a single seat
Might be some electrical differences but electrics are something I'm reasonably clueless on, so can't be sure or comment.
From the look of yours you won't have any of the above to check, so check the frame numbers
My bike is all original aside from the exhaust, carbs and K&N fitted inside the original airbox. I've restored it twice 22 years, so have lots of build photos (that I am planning to put on here at some point) if you need anything.
BTW I had the original shock restored by a firm in the NW, can't remember their name. Cost some 400 quid but its like new, and I wanted the original look
-
On 3/7/2019 at 1:01 AM, Dezza said:
The carbs look like the 34mm CVs from an 1100 slabside, much in demand from those with turbo bikes. They look in really good shape compared with the rest of the bike suggesting they have been put on relatively recently.
I did this conversion with feedback from an ex TT racer supported by Dynojet. CVs from an 1100 G, Dynojet Stage 1, original airbox and filters. Had a hole drilled in the slides by a rolling road, seemed to help - its super smooth all round
-
On 3/3/2019 at 3:18 PM, dupersunc said:
Blowing exhaust header.
This....every time .....
-
1 hour ago, no class said:
free download from Carl Salter
Thank you, I'll do that
-
1 minute ago, wsn03 said:
Thank you for that. If no other options perhaps one day I can arrange to get a copy off you in return for a large crate of beer ?
Actually just found the original on eblag!
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, Simbec1863 said:
Suzuki
,I've got it in PDF if you need it but its a massive 28mb so probably won't email, maybe someone on here can tell you where you can download it from...Thank you for that. If no other options perhaps one day I can arrange to get a copy off you in return for a large crate of beer ?
-
1
-
-
7 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
Doesn't make him a bad person!
-
8 hours ago, yyt said:
I would just check the pressure for a start.
I think the oil pump is the heart of oil boilers, in the near future i'm planning on adding a fixed gauge next to instruments panel for pressure n temp.
Haven't tested mine yet but i got a pressure gauge of e-bay and planning to check at next maintenance.
Thanks for that, very helpful. Is that from a Suzuki workshop manual or Haynes?
-
33 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Yeah - good call, or shite in the switch?
Another interesting possibility. So the pumps don't have a reputation for giving up - I thought not.
On a positive note the old bastard is missing most of his teeth and riddled with arthritis- the lying theiving cunt
-
7 hours ago, dupersunc said:
more likely the prv valve stuck open.
Very interesting, thanks for that. The guy would have charged full pump change price for something simple knowing what a dodgy old fucker he turned out to be
-
10 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Oil boilers do not have a reputation for low oil pressure and as most switches trigger at stupidly low pressure it is a sign of a problem ....... they usually have an excess of pressure and flow so have to bleed excess off. No oil changes and bodgy meckniks don't bode well i'm afraid! The best place to test is main galley plug on the RH side of the crankcase where a gauge could be fitted and get an accurate reading.
I should have been clearer. I didn't have time but I still did change the oil religiously, so the oil was good. Thanks for the heads up on how to get a reading
-
Many years ago my v low mileage slabby 750F started getting an oil light on at tickover. I had no time to even do an oil change in those days so I relied on some pretty shit mechanics.
One head mechanic at a very large motorcycle shop said "turn the tickover up"....hmm
Then I took it to an established "expert" who allegedly changed the oil pump, telling me he'd made a special tool to measure oil pressure to work out mine was a knacker.
I later learned that the guy was totally full of shit, once I saw the horrendous mess he made of my carbs, and stuck the bike in the corner of the garage until better days came along (the divorce).
Questions: anyone know if oil light on tickover means oil pump on way out? Are they known for failing? Anyway to easily measure pressure to know if all is well in any engine?
-
Very nice!
-
2 hours ago, Sam-Jaffa said:
I've heard the horror stories a fair few times throughout different forums but have yet to see a picture or a failed lever, not to say they haven't failed but pictures speak a thousand words, on the other hand, I have known plenty of stock cast aluminium levers fail, so I think it's just luck of the draw
That's a scary thought! Maybe stick with OEM??
-
14 hours ago, Sam-Jaffa said:
I must ask if there is any material refering to these breakages? I've never heard of a Chinese lever failing, I've ran them on alotbof bikes, I've even had my bike fall on another bike clutch lever first and the lever never failed
I don't have any, but when I looked on the net I found numerous bike forums with horror stories.
I did enough work with Chinese manufacturers to know that material specs can be unreliable enough for me not to take a chance.
The source that told us of brake lever breakages is a well known engineer in the motorbike racing world, but I'd rather not quote him.
You pay your money, you take your chances
-
I had a nosey at the stand, everyone looked busy so I didn't stop and say hello. I should have but I was still sore about not being able to offer my bikes on the stand - our move ended up being delayed after all.
Next year I'd like to offer up my bog stock slabby F and 1200 Bandit if I'm available and if you have space - its a good show
-
I went 1 tooth up from standard on the front sprocket, no other modifications. I had to file down one of the posts on the sprocket cover slightly to get it to fit, it was a long time ago so don't remember the details but I do remember I had to file to make it fit.
As a side story was the best mod I ever made to a bike! Turned it from a pig into something nice to ride, was only a few months old and I just couldn't get along with it. It was Dek Crutchlow (Cal's Dad, years before Cal had ever sat on a race bike) who suggested it, just as I was about to trade it in for a Bonneville. I should have thought of it myself being a Club racer at the time constantly playing with gearing.
-
Nooooooo!
I went on a training course the other day, they gave a big warning about Chinese brake leavers breaking under heavy load- killed a lot of riders apparently. Dont do it!!!
Carb rebuild kits and fuel tap kit
in Oil Cooled
Posted · Edited by wsn03
To stop carbs pissing out fuel nothing works like oem needle float valves. Some say Wemoto (made in Japan which is good) but i haven't tried them yet. Im yet to find an aftermarket that doesnt fail in a 24hr flood test (one set took almost an hour to start flooding each time - odd)
To test just set up the remote tank, turn on the fuel and leave for 24 hrs...note the change in level in the tank (and the pool of fuel on the work bench)