wsn03
-
Posts
365 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by wsn03
-
-
On 5/16/2019 at 8:31 PM, Swiss Toni said:
Did they not have a tendancy to jump out of 2nd gear?
Never had any problems with mine ever...keep changing the oil.
Geared wrong those bikes, i went one tooth up on the front and its spot on...you need to do a tiny bit of filing on a bit of the casing to make it fit
-
2 hours ago, harryhoarder said:
T
Is that right the clutch needs to be pulled in before starting ? Can't remember doing this when I last rode it although I think modern suzuki need clutch in to start.
My 85 Slabbie does not need clutch in to start. My 2001 Bandit does. I'm guessing you don't need the clutch, but hopefully someone with knowledge of your model can confirm
-
13 hours ago, Dezza said:
No, use a good set of jump leads though that are unlikely to slip off of the connections
Thanks Dezza, I need to not be so scared of electrics - I'm slowly learning but do find it all a bit daunting.
-
7 hours ago, Dezza said:
Get a known good battery and connect directly to the starter after first disconnecting the bike's wiring from the battery, main earth, starter motor etc.. Connect the positive to the starter motor connector then quickly connect the negative to bare metal on the engine block. Sparks will fly especially if you are not quick doing this so it helps not to use this method in a garage full of paint thinners fumes or similar.... If the motor cranks over OK then the problem is in your bike's wiring; if it does not crank over, or cranks slowly, the starter motor is at fault.
I'm electrically clueless. Apart from the sparks igniting something, is there any other risk wit doing this? Seems really simple
-
Im crap with electrics and had the same problem.as you.
I couldn't believe the cure - my mate tapped the starter motor lightly with a hammer and it slowly started working. Told me the contacts corrode when stood.
You tube how to test a relay as they give up and are easy to swap.
I would take the starter out and test it on a bench.
-
2 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Hang on.......is it a mark 1 or mark 2?????????
It's a mk 1....does that change things?
-
58 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
I haven't got any measurements Im afraid, unless I dismantle my 1200..
.
The 600 and 1200 frames are basically the same construction but with a few differences, the rear foot peg brackets and lower triangular engine mounts, are welded on on a 600 bolted on a 1200, the rear bottom engine bolt hole is 10mm on a 600 12mm on a 1200, the lock stops are different sizes and the 600 doesn't have the brace between the front engine mounts..
Some people are of the view that the 600 frame is made of lighter gauge Steele, and the geometry is different, its not..
Really appreciate the heads up thank you. I'll knock up a plasticine pattern to get the lock stops spot on.
-
14 hours ago, Crass said:
My foam had visibly deteriorated and the clocks were loose in their mounting. The clock cases were contacting the metal mounting plate. If yours have none of these issues I would say you would be curing a problem which you don't have, leave it. I have a non-OSS bike I've owned from new since 94 which uses similar clock mounting and is in pretty much as new condition. I won't do that one until it needs it. Just keep an eye on it.
Thanks for the advice. I'll keep an eye on it. I will struggle to do more than 200 miles/ yr, so I don't expect things to change.
-
3 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
yes there is a difference. the 600 stop is fan shaped like tony's the 1200 one is a much narrower lug, like the other pictures..
Ahh ok, I get it thanks. So im back to a rectangular block. I don't suppose you have access to any measurements do you? If not I can mock it up with Plasticine easily enough. Odd that the 600 and 1200 are totally different, I honestly thought they were the same rolling chassis.
-
7 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
Meaning ..... ?
Meaning i need to escape this clinical neat and tidy hell im living in. I want a blokes gaff again...I'll consider anything.
My missus was horrified by your room...Id move in tomorrow
-
2 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Is yours a 600 then, Tony's pic is a 600 frame, the others are of 1200 frames it's different, what yokes have you got??
Mine is a 1200. So there's a difference?
Ive got standard yokes, standard everything.
-
3 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
There you go! I had to come up and tuck them in! 45mm at its widest point, 25mm at narrowest. Stands off frame 20mm at widest point.
Picture of his little roomies!
Mate that's brilliant thank you, i wont need to make a pattern now. Excellent.
Now then, im loving that bedroom. I used to live like that, then i got married and everything is tidy.
If I become gay can I move in with you, I want to live like that again! Probably without sex though....
-
5 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
this is a 1200 lock stop the 600 one is much wider..
That's spot on thank you!!!
Ok so the stop itself is a sort of rectangle with a bit of a taper then, I get it, it's really clear now.
Mine is broken for some reason (f knows) - I'm going to make a plasticine pattern, check everything is correct gaps then I'll make a steel part and my mate will weld it for me
-
56 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
1200 as above 600 frame has a fan shaped stop like you thought...
Hmm...im not quite seeing it. Could anyone get a picture with a plan view please ( looking down on it from above) ?
Any measurements would be really appreciated
-
5 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
No probs. post it tomorrow. Bare frame in bedroom.
If you'd be so kind can you give me the width dimensions when you're climbing into bed with her
...im being serious btw!
-
2 hours ago, Ted M said:
Here you go
Thank you, very much appreciated. Its like a rectangle block, i thought it was a kind of fan shape.
Big help, cheers
-
2 hours ago, wraith said:
Dose make you think what people sleep with
-
1
-
-
The lug on my headstock that the lockstops rest against is broken.
Anyone have a frame they could take a picture of so I can know what it looks like please?
Thanks in advance
-
1 hour ago, billd said:
I have a JDM and have just got it running after new rings and a top end O/H. Chassis number is as yours Tony, GR71F-102266. I've replaced the VM29'S with BST32's and it runs like a top. Had rebuilt the VM29's but didn't run smoothly. As my bike is in a standard configuration although not stock (as noted about carbs) and runs original airbox and filter. I bought an original exhaust header and can but not sure what it's off of so could be UK model or JDM. Can someone tell me more about the JDM exhaust restrictors, was it just a smaller outlet pipe from the cylinder head or an insert to restrict the exhaust header that could be removed?
I believe the JDM had smaller pipe outlets. I wanted to keep mine but was told in absolute terms by the whole world that i would be on a hiding to nothing
Out of interest I remember that pipe weighed at least a ton!
-
21 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:
In your dreams! 
hmmm...i'll keep hovering....
-
1 hour ago, Swiss Toni said:
Well, I'll go through the carbs when I strip them for the 'fizzy bath'. All else, as it comes up. Thanks for the 'heads up'!
Whatever you need shout - mine is all bog standard except the exhaust, carbs and coils.
Let me know what time to call round to collect your exhaust
-
10 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:
Ah, you're just too late! Crushed it last week ... As if!
Actually, it's in not bad fettle. Could do with the dent in the heat shield taken out. The clocks are now UK spec. I'd have thought any restrictions would be in carb size (mine's 29's), or Ignitor box. Bonus if that's all there was. Emailed DVLA this morning. Not expecting much, except that brightly coloured thin stuff, (red tape)!!! 
I can't remember about the carbs, as it is I converted to 1100G with Stage 1 Dynojet - ran like a dream ever since (oh and Dyna coils, the big green ones that were good back in the day).
There may have been a restrictor in the carbs, I honestly can't remember having played with so many from so many different makes of bike,
-
My bike is an 85. Done v low miles, and spent all its life in a garage since import in 1995. The foam seems to be perfect, as do the mounts. Is this because I've done hardly any miles on it in 24 yrs of owning it? And should I rebuild it anyway (ie does it just look ok but an accident waiting to happen)?
-
21 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
It's been in the UK for the last 20 yrs. I'm assuming it would have been restricted for the Japanese home market? I'm also assuming, due to the length of time its been in the UK, someone's already de-restricted it. If not, how would it differ from UK spec? Carbs, ignition ect?
I bought mine as a JDM when it was still on the ship coming over!
I think from memory the restrictions were as follows:
- Exhaust was restricted in the downpipes (if you have an original just bin it - actually I'll collect it from you cause you're obviously busy)
- Warning light coming on at 50 mph I think it was
As far as I can remember that was it. The odd thing about mine was the chain, it was really cheap and nasty, the links didn't even turn on the pins!
I don't know of any other restrictions
Engine paint
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Hammerite Satin black for me, had in for years, my engines look like new.
Prep is easy, application is tricky. Fine and very thin layers, allow to get tacky between very light costs in warm air. Side casings are best done horizontally (ie take them off or put the engine on its side).
I hate the application, love the finish and the durability