wsn03
-
Posts
365 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by wsn03
-
-
30 minutes ago, jonny1bump said:
Don't forget your old strokers in our youths had on and off taps rather then vac taps always got to turn them off when parked on slopes and side stands etc, they always gonna week fuel where they shouldn't if there is constant supply, last thing you want is weep into barrels and contaminate petrol or worse hydraulic.
My 750 F has an on/off tap. I use fuel filter to keep it all super clean
-
On 8/1/2018 at 10:09 AM, imago said:
As for bench testing, yes is the answer. Purely because the carbs are such a pain in the arse to remove and refit. However, that test is only useful if you go away from the OEM vacuum tap, which in itself demonstrates that Suzuki weren't completely confident in the capabilities of the float valves they were fitting when the bikes were new.
My 750F doesnt have a vac tap
My Bandit does but i just use a remote tank. Im really intrigued by Wemoto
-
Fyi JB Weld state:
When fully cured, J-B Weld is completely resistant to water,gasoline, and about every otherpetroleum product or automotive chemical. For wet-surface or submerged water or gasoline repairs, try our SteelStik or WaterWeld. ... J-B Weld is not considered to be a conductor. It is an insulator.
-
I got some sign /writer / graphics place to do my whole bike.
We took photos of the originals and traced the outline of each one to get the sizing right.
No one has ever spotted they're not original. And this was in the 90s before digital cameras and easy computers. We had to write on slates in them.days with us finger nails
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, Romaz750R said:
Ok, I get it. I thought I should polish the needle... Probably if the left carburetor is the lowest, then the pressure on it is greater. And at an angle it warps. I understand you, I'll try, thank you all!!!
If you're taking the carbs off can you try loading them with fuel from a remote tank. The GPZ carbs i rebuilt took some 25 minutes to piss fuel out but they did until I made the owner buy OEM needle float valves
Be worth it for piece of mind. Please post back.how you get on
-
12 hours ago, Crass said:
But surely the Wemoto kit which #imago has in his ET disproves this statement? He based his reply on experience over a period of 2/3 years. Personally I've found Wemoto aftermarket stuff to be good quality.
Ive not tried Wemoto - im interested if this is the case. Ive had experience of most of the other well known specialists, needle float valves leaking from brand new, shocking. I once restored a set of GPZ carbs for a mate, did a careful and stunning paint job on them. Bench tested them and fuel pissed out everwhere completely destroying my paintwork!
The issue is with any claims, have they been bench tested? Sticking them on a bike with a vacuum feed set up gives one the impression all is well because most of the time the feed is off. The only way to be properly sure all is well is to gravity feed fuel to the carbs and leave the feed on a few hours. The only thing holding the fuel back then is the needle float valves.
Ive only ever seen Makuni oem.pass this test. Anything failing it will seep fuel into the engine. If the oil smells of fuel you know what's been causing it.
Has anyone bench tested Wemoto valves this way? Would be great if they work and for as long as the oems
-
2 hours ago, Oilyspanner said:
I've had several carbs that have caused headaches in the past (and fairly recently) and when all looks like it should work, with the f.valve shutting off the fuel, but doesn't - this has worked :
Any slight residue on the sides of the valve seat will cause the float needle to snag slightly - the needle valve should be able to move freely, modern fuels are sods for leaving residue. Use a light polish to remove the crud, you know when you've done the job - the run up to the valve seat will be the nice brass colour again. Make sure the float needle is clean too - once done the needle should move freely up and down the valve seat assembly. I normally use a cotton bud to apply the polish (brasso works well), or cotton wrapped on the end of a cocktail stick, you can spin these with your fingers, or use a drill (which is what I use, just be gentle with it).
When the carbs are at an angle, the floats don't exert as much force on the float needle (lop sided force acts on the pivot), so if the needle slightly resists movement, the needle won't shut the fuel off properly.
It's always hard to visualise issues on the net, but doing this has prevented me from doing nasty stuff to the carbs for wasting hours of my time …...
I always have fuel filters, but i suppose that doesnt stop all residue?!? That said OEM needle valves, inline filters and fuel stabiliser in winter and i just dont get any problems
-
1
-
-
On 6/23/2018 at 6:42 PM, imago said:
Some aftermarket kits are decent, some are utter sh1te. I had a set from Wemoto for the ET and they appeared decent in terms of finish on the float valves etc. They've been in two years (maybe three?) and are fine. A mate got a set for a not-suzuki from Eblag and they were piss poor. The threads all looked like they'd been carved in with a stanley blade.
So I would say if you're getting aftermarket stuff then get them from a reliable shop/trader and you should be OK.
I'd dispute this and suggest oem only.
All the "specialists" fail to get needle float valves that last more than a few weeks. They totally shag your engine too. For some reason people keep giving them business
-
1
-
-
Needle flost valves - any aftermarket ones you can scrap, they all leak. Buy Mikuini or live with the leaks
To test - stick carbs on bench. Half fill remote fuel tank (Demon Tweeks sell them) connected to carbs
Give it 24 hrs. ... dont smoke,.observe fuel all over the bench, tank empty. Needle floats (supplied by your trustworthy aftermarket carbs specialist) are leaking.
Then buy some Makuni (re-mortgage or buy from USA)
-
1
-
-
You will need needle float valves, only use Makuni, aftermarket ones always fail. Order from the US to save a fortune.
Test yours by loading your carbs with fuel on a bench using a remote tank. Give it a 24 hr test. Don't smoke
-
1
-
-
13 hours ago, Macduff said:
I had wondered if I’d been too stingy on choice but scanning Eblag and amazon all the placcy quick disconnects look identical bar price . There do seem to be some metal ones from about 60quid but that’s a bit much if they leak too. Guaranteed good metal ones seem to be over the ton motorworks bummer spares stock them as they might be used as oem replacments.
Hmm. The only home i found for mine because of the remote tank issue is the dirt bike. Now having 2nd thoughts. Last thing i need is a fuel leak in the middle of nowhere on the side of a hill inaccessible to the RAC. Think mine were 10 quid so probably same as yours
-
On 20/02/2018 at 7:01 PM, Macduff said:
I think I need to change the thread title to my slabby lives dies lives dies repeat! It got harder to start at the end of autumn when temps dropped then it just plain refused. Bunged it back in the garage and made some attempts to sort with no success, issue seemed to be the carb pilot and choke ccts but played with the cop conversion incase it was failing and ended up removing the inline resistors and replaced the cop wiring with a new shorter loom. To complicate things I also swapped out the VM29ss with better set though I replaced the pilot jets and float valves in these with bits from the originals as they were new last year. One weird thing in noticed was the 2nd carb set had 20 pilots and my new ones were 32. Had another go today as weather in garage was warmer and after spending some wrist bending and scraping time refitting the carb airbox rubbers (thank fuck they were new last year) if managed to get it started (after adding some fuel to the tank!). Whoopie then fuck it dies ran out of fuel pretty quick (one std shed petrol can size (4lt) filled it with 4 ltr more but it wasn’t having it just starting on choke but dieing immediately . Got more fresh fuel in the tank brimmed but left it on charge for another go tommorrow. One minor fuck up was I replaced most of the tank to carbs fuel pipe with new , added an inline filter and a quick disconnect . The quick disconnect leaked and caught fire ! Luckily tank was on loose and I shut of fuel tap and kille the fire (small) before it got hold and burnt my garage down... so moral is don’t buy cheap fuel disconnects off fleabay. Not damage apart from a singed quick disconnect. Not sure how it ignited but seemed to have flashed off heat from head or maybe the coil and and electrical spark (fuel dripped onto it).
I was going to fit a quick disconnect but changed my mind because no good for connecting to my remote tank i use when balancing the carbs. Also feared another link to go wrong. Your post has vindicated that decision.
Scary
-
My coils are mounted above the carbs, and 1. in the original coil mounting near the head stock.
Picture 1 shows the bracket made to mount the coil above the carb - this bracket was made of cheese, so later I made a stainless one that didn't tear under vibration..
Picture 2 shows the coil above the carb (I don''t have flatslide carbs on mine, not sure what height difference there is between them and the CVs I use)
Picture 3 shows the mounting point for my above carb coil - I shared it with the point used by the right hand bracket that holds the airbox in place
Picture 4 shows the coil mounted in the headstock area using 2 of the original mounting points with a bracket made up on each side.
-
1
-
-
Deliberately done to help you get them on and adjusted. R is throttle side i recall
-
2
-
-
Lovely bike. Mine is a similar story but somehow i managed to keep hold of the original bike. She was a dust heap sat in the corner of the garage for a few years before i gave her a 2nd restoration
-
1
-
-
-
1 hour ago, Swiss Toni said:
Cheers lads!
I didn't know those Airbox brackets existed!
They only go on AFTER the carbs and all the manifolds are in place. Screw to airbox first, then slide onto frame - its a tight squeeze kind of thing. You'll actually think they wont go on...keep bolts / screws loose until everything is lined up. Once on the carbs and manifolds lines up perfectly.
Those inserts in the frame tend to go knacker, you can buy stainless replacements (they're called rivnuts).
-
2 hours ago, Simbec1863 said:
Like these
Bang on mate!
-
2
-
-
I have one in headstock and one above carbs in a place that does not mess up access to balancing screws.
I'll put up.pics on the weekend. I too made brackets
-
On 06/02/2018 at 1:18 AM, Swiss Toni said:
So ... what model are these from? And where do the lower pair go?
Those bottom 2, if they have an "R" and "L" stamped on them they will be the airbox to frame brackets...they look just like that.
Need a picture? My tank is off atm
-
1
-
-
I've always been told the same:
36 front, 42 rear......... applies to my MK1 Slabbie, and MK1 1200 Bandit
Carb repair kits
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Anything made in Japan is usually top spec and reliable. I wonder if they are Mikuni....