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HUM

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Posts posted by HUM

  1. Hi

    that with the slightly longer lever really works???

    I once addressed the same problem in a Suzi forum, because someone said that it didn't work because the path was too long or something similar... some kind of physics stuff with levers... :S

    I've been toying with the part of https:// for a long time.   www.webike.de/products/21416335.html

     

    Cheers

    Uli

     

  2. Hi
    I took a look at the part on eblag
    Yes, the cables are a bit puny, but cables with nipples can be made.
    If the knurled screws and the inner workings are also on a bicycle level, you can forget it, the mechanics cannot withstand the pressure in the long run, and it comes from CN
    I have my doubts.. or is there already experience about the durability?
    cheers
    Uli

  3. Hi

    Many have the problem, and the thing really works? Looks sh.. indeed. Can't you do that at the bottom of the clutch inlet so that it lies on the block under the carburetors. What is that thing made of, metal or plastic?

    Well, when we were 20, we didn't have that problem xD

    There is also a semi-solution to our problem, which is to let the clutch cable run past the engine at the front, then screw a counterhold to the clutch cover, turn the input lever by 90° and then adjust it... I've seen that on racing bikes before, or look check it out

    In this position, the train is not as kinked and runs easier.

    Also what helps is that you only have 50% HD springs in the clutch..
    My dream is a hydraulic solution,

    I haven't found the right slave cylinder yet, Magura is too expensive an the CN parts .... .

    Maybe someone has a solution ?

    cheers
    Uli

  4. Hi  

    see here the  version which works...

    Bild

     

     

    Bild

     

    grind off the 3 rivets, disassemble, look for springs that fit and have the power, install them and weld the rivets clean again .. The hillbilly method is instead of new springs, put washers in and hope that they stay in ..

     

    Good Luck Uli

    • Like 1
  5. Hi
    I use 10w40 from Liqui Moly motorbike oil or other brands. With an oil cooler, the oil temperature can sometimes exceed 90 - 100°.    I had a GS 1000S which, without an oil cooler, sometimes reached 120° to 140° when driving quickly... I can't say how hot the engine gets, the front head gets hotter than the cylinder, definitely very hot, well over 100° what is normal for an air-cooled engine. I think the oil temperature is important and you can keep that in check with an oil cooler….

  6. Hi

    16" you can forget, wobbles from about 180KM/h,
    We tried it in the 80s/90s,  16"sucked..
    What was good, 18" PVM's, or Campagnolo's, you could get them with around 20
    Then came the 18" from the first GSXR, in my opinion the breakthrough came with the 17" from the GSXR and the Bandits ..

    I have in my 1100 E 17" a GSXR 3.5" front 5.5" rear 120 front 180 rear. A compromise between handling and high speed stability ,
    That means in practice, much better handling than the original, and only a little wobbling from about 220KM/h. If you want more directional stability at high speed and fast highway corners, choose 18" If you want better handling in tight corners, choose 17"

    The prerequisite is always that you want to talk about stability with the old tubular frames, and above all that you don't get scared if the thing wobbles at 200 km/h plus, those were mopeds for men without nerves back then   B|  B| , no pussy helpers like ABS, wheely control, traction control and whatever else there is  :P:P

    if anyvody has driven a Kawa 500 mach III beyond  180 KM/h knows what I am talking about xD

    cheeers

    uli

     

  7. Hello everyone,

    I would like to build a new Setrab 10 or  13 row oil cooler on my GSX 1100e.

    Which hose diameter would be optimal dash 6 (8.7mm) dash 8 (11.1mm) mm is the inner diameter oil pump is original
    I would like to connect the oil cooler to exits left and right  to the oil filter, I have an oil filter cover for an EFE

    cheers
    Uli

  8. Hi all

     

    I have the impression that it runs a bit too lean, the spark plugs are more gray than brown

    but in deccellaration I have beyond 5000 backfire in muffler  see video

    Test drive Video

    setttings

    gsx 1100e 1047 cc
    yoshis stage 1 cams
    36mm carbs from Efe arther clean

    4/1  V&H classic  with racing baffle
    original air filter with box
    main jets 120
    needle in middle
    mixture 2.75 rotations

     

    I think a bigger jets as 122,5 or 125 will help, what do  U thnk  or does anybody has

    expirience ?

     

    cheers 

    Uli

     

     

  9. On 10/27/2021 at 11:11 AM, Joseph said:

     

    and me   :P   

    495695563_gsx1100eII.thumb.jpg.af77645d3bfa78c2d6e981201e5d13d2.jpg

    But I also have to say from the look the 18" looks very good...  some say ,  17" looks a bit as Mickey Mouse rims   :P
    As far as the handling is concerned, I know the GS 1000S with original suspension and the GSX 1100E, good straight-line running at high speeds above 200KM/h but a bit stiff in the corners.  Now the 17" in the 1100 is much more agile in the corners, the worse straight line running which is inevitably the case at 17", the modern tires balance the current 1100 only starts from about 220KM / h and faster in straight-line running, something to oscillate, about comparable to earlier the original rims.
    I think with the 18" that will be in between.  I know everything also depends on the chassis, forks etc. and its setting ...  that's just my impression ...

     

    • Like 1
  10. Hi

    my config

    gsx 1100e

    Yoshi stage 1 cams , stock airbox K+N inside , V&H 4/1  with racing baffle

    gas  98 octane

    carbs from efe,  36mm ,  needle in middle , 120 jettings , screws 1+4  , two 1/2     2+3  , three

    all other jettings  efe stock

    runs quiet well

     

    cheers

     

    Uli

     

  11. Hi

    nope , this I would do not , buy a complet new set, ( both sides )   cost ony a few bucks an U have fun the next years

    https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gsx750es-1983-d-1-2-4-6-15-16-17-18-21-22-24-25-26-27-30-34-39_model13699/partslist/FIG73.html#.YNnDFkxCRPY

    cheers


  12. Hello

    I am considering installing a Lifepo battery in my GSX 1100E, my controller is a NipponDenso 32800-45210
    can I operate a lifepo abtterie with this controller, or does the controller bring too high voltage, i.e. over 14.4 volts ?
    someone has experience

    Cheers
    Uli

    IMG_2612.thumb.JPG.816ee961b53b363c5e678d2b2867c868.JPG

  13. loosen airbox on the top from frame

    loosen aibox rubbers spray a bit WD40 or silicone spray between rubber an carb

    loosen carb on intake, also WD40 or silicone spray  between

    loosen choke cable at carb

    losen throttle cable at handlebar

    loosen ths gas and vac hoses

    sit on bike

    pull back carbs  with airbox and into airbox fron intakes

    pull carb left hand that carbintakes are between rubber intakes

    pull carb out from airbox

    take out from left side toghether with hoses and throttle cable

    To build makes more fun  :P

    cheers

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