SATANSAM
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Posts posted by SATANSAM
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Haha well, I won't upload my friend up here, got no pix with clothes on... Anyway, the white vinegar+water+sodic bicarbonate went very well. Left it overnight, oyr and compressed air. Waiting for the proper US cleaner now.
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39 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:
Pics of hot girlfriend not loading
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17 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Firstly don't mix vinegar, water and sodium bicarbonate - it won't do anything as it will be about as aggressive as clean water! The bicarb neutralises the vinegar acid! And sodium bicarbonate isn't caustic enough to be any good! If you want decent acid - get some muriatic (brick acid from a Builders Merchant) its Hydrochloric acid, can be diluted with water and washed away with clean water but it really goes aggressive on metals! Likewise Caustic Soda (sodium hydroxide) is very caustic and will attack metals with a vengeance! Don't sniff the fumes as your lungs won't thank you!
Personally a good Ultrasonic blast with a heated, reasonably good solvent / cleaner usually shifts most crap - if you haven't a professional sized unit then multiple sessions will be required - the only cost is time!
Well all screws, jets and carbs are shiny after 4 hours in 50% water and 50% white cleaning vinegar with about 6 spoons full of bicarbonate stuff, I'm leaveing it overnight, I'll take the risk. And you are right, I've gifted that LIDL fryer to a hot girl friend of mine, she was very happy! And I found a 3 L decent US cleaner for 50 bux...Everything seems to get together....EXCEPT THE F**** BIKE...Let's see how the dinner ends up with my friend. the weekend. And thanx far all the chemical tips, but it's too much info for my single neuron
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4 hours ago, Dezza said:
What is the contraption that the carb body is lying in? It does not look like an US cleaner to me, more like a small chip fryer bought from Lidls. Also, even with all the right gear the carb bodies will never get properly free of all cack unless all parts are stripped out first. It does not look like this has been done as even the choke plunger hasn't been removed from the carb in the pic. A small US cleaner is not that expensive but even that isn't going to work unless the carbs are completely stripped and dipped first.
Yes it is a crappy lidl fryer... Thought it would do something. Now question, if I soak the carbs in white vinegar with water and bicarbonate for example, it's what I've got, WOULD IT RUIN THE PLASTICS OF THE THROTTHE LEVERS?
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The other 3rd set of carbs I've got. Pre stuffed with all types of cleaners like contact cleaner, intake, degreaser... Now each carb 8min on each side as it doesn't totally fit in the ultrasonic, filling motor with new oil, new oil filter and clean air filter...On thing, again, the bike shouldn't idle-hang by a faulty rectifier, Right?
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On 2/6/2021 at 2:45 PM, Dezza said:
Take carb bank off and drain. Securely fix the complete bank on the bench so you can see all round including underneath (a retort stand or 2 makes this easy, remember them from school chemistry lessons?). It helps to put the whole lot on a tray to catch any fuel. Then attach a small remote fuel supply and watch, carefully. You will be able to pin-point where your leak is coming from. If it's not obvious, then place individual small plastic containers under each float bowl and leave for a while.
It is true that blockages are most likely in the main carb body so soak overnight in a nasty solvent, then ultra-sonic. Often just the ultra-sonic won't work on its own.
Yes, I'm going to do that and inspect for small leaks. Meanwhile the motor oil is out and the oil filter, leaving it open the whole day. It did smell of petrol and had a lighter color. I'll put a new oil filter and oil and start, see what happens! Thanx folx, U R really helping and what a patience!!!
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21 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
as your oil level gone up ? stick your nose in the oil filler cap and see if it has a strong smell of fuel, if it does it needs changing. maybe a fresh air filter wouldn't hurt either.
It has gone up! And I think it does smell of petrol, I've been surrounded by solvents and my nose is a bit confused... But yes, oil level has deffenitly gone up, thanx Tony!
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No luck, carbs are spotless, no air leak, valves OK, compression OK, valve seat orings perfect. Could it be that there's fuel in the crankcase by some reason? The air filter smells of petrol too. Read something somewhere about it but don't remember much about it...
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Well, a lot shit came out of the jets with the lidl fryer, and had carbs soaked in vinegar, break cleaner, universal degreaser, and God knows what else... The fact is that loox like the thing is working...Now I can lower the idle by shutting mixture screw
Well, might be the scoth they gave today... -
Hep Hep hep!!!
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10 minutes ago, Dezza said:
Should be easy then and all the screws should come out OK. I think I can disassemble my EFE carbs completely in about 30min flat seeing as I have had so much practice.
Yep, worst scenario will be getting those stripped ones into this ultrasonic thing individually, everything....We're getting there...But, if what is wrong would of been the motor I WOULD OF THROWN THE WHOLE THING DOWN THE CLIFF, CARBS INCLUDED.
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7 minutes ago, Dezza said:
If you strip your carbs completely to remove ALL rubber and plastic, you can then soak the metal bits overnight in a mixture of cellulose thinners and acetone. This will cause the varnish to quickly evacuate your carbs. It will also do the same to the local fire brigade from their station if extreme care is not taken though
I have used this method several times before and it works well. You need a sealed container (not plastic) or otherwise much of the (highly volatile) solvent will evaporate.
Thanx Dez, good tip! THe thing is that I completely removed carbs about a month ago to change the fuel pipe orings but didn't do a deep clean....But I've got another set of carbs separated....I'll give them a try
Cheers m8
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Got all the jets soaking in apple vinegar while waiting for the 20 bux ultrasonic cleaner
All diaphragms out, got the carbs full of carb cleaner, got thing guitar strings through the carb "tunnels", compressed air, more carb cleaner....Can't find that yamaha carb cleaner easily...We'll see what happens!
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2 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
No. This stuff. The part number’s on the bar-code!
Ah! Amigo! Thanx Swiss!
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23 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:
I should have added ... Leave for a few hours and drain the bowls. If really shitty, repeat or, run fresh gas through until clear.
That one?
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2 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:
If you can’t get them dipped in the ultrasonic tank, see if you can get hold of some Yamaha Carb Cleaner. Follow the instructions. Choke on. Hold throttle wfo, hit the starter for maybe 20 seconds, and it gets drawn into system. I tried all kinds of cleaners, and this is the only one that shifts all that gum, laquer ect. Get the black bottle/red label type. Yellow label, no good!
Thanx Toni! I'll have a look online...It's got to be black petrol gum in there like most of you say.
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Nope Dez
And I spoke with mechanics of the area, they say they would open the motor! Spain, or at least this part of Spain is crappy mechanicaly talking, dirty quick fix for a about 400€ and they wait for you to come with another problem.
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Just now, Swiss Toni said:
Well, seeing as your #3 inlet rubber is foobarr’d, I’d take a good look at the other three as well!
Yep
! None of the other 3 have any cracks, well, slowly slowly finding things...We'll hit the bell sooner or later!
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18 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
you can take the complete airbox off and it won't make the idle hang, it can effect the running though.
Argh....Man....Well, I'll install them tomorrow, AFTER re-re-re-re-recleaning carbs, specially pilot circuit...I think....I don't know how to think.....
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21 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Plenty big enough to suck air in enough to disrupt carb balancing. Obviously a bit ironic trying to balance all the others to the 'datum' which isn't working right LOL!
I love doing things the wrong way round, excuse 4 bbqs & beer.
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I took all air filter boots that go to the carbs out and found this crack in the boot that goes to cylinder 3...Stuffet it with gasket silicone to try tomorrow... I don't think that crack would hang the idle this much, but I've already been wrong in most of the things
Beer time.
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On 1/29/2021 at 5:13 PM, Swiss Toni said:
I’m almost sure all the carbs are synced to the #3. It’s a long time since I’ve seen the manual, so I may well be wrong!
Yes U R right Swiss, according to the manual all carbs are synced to the reference carb 3 yep
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22 hours ago, Pudzrx said:
Thats what I said.
Can't be arsed to go back over the thread again , but have either set of carbs been PROPERLY ultrasonically cleaned ?
Puddy
No they haven't Pud,
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2 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
Just a small point, as you seem to be getting there ... when you’re balancing your carbs with the gauges, the #3 carb is usually the ‘datum’, ie, non-adjustable. Set the other 3’s vacuum to this one. Might be a different set-up on yours, but worth checking.
Thanx Swiss, yes I'm actually doing that, all butterflies closed, use the idle screw to open or close the number 3, then sync.carb 2 to 3 (reference) , then 1 to 2 and then the 4....the thing is that to be balanced the bike has to be at bout 3000 or more rpm...
GSX750ES REVS SUPER HIGH AVTER INSTALLING CARBS
in Air Cooled
Posted
Someone is gonna kick me out of the forum, but loox like there's a small air leak between carbs 2 and 3, round the throttle lever...I'm talking about the carbs I've got on the bike of course (the ones I've re-cleaned and done everything till now). Is it difficult to strip out the butterflies with those 2 screws that break?