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SATANSAM

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Posts posted by SATANSAM

  1. 3 hours ago, RickLee said:

    Me again...  I was inspecting my old air box and everything within it and realized that the foam gasket that the actual air filter sits on was deteriorated beyond bad.  This original foam gasket seals the metal air filter framework to the bottom of the plastic air box.  When these things deteriorate they fill the air box with tiny (and not so tiny) tar-like particles that would certainly get sucked into the carbs, making all of my hard work cleaning and rebuilding the carbs useless. I removed the tarry gasket, (it literally crumbled when I touched it) and thoroughly blew out lots and lots of debris, and am now thinking of ways to replace it. One being double sided gorilla glue tape because it needs an airtight seal.

    seriously this could potentially ruin your carbs.  Jam a slide, block a jet. Whatever.

    Yep, but the foam is new too, everything spotless... I bought all 4 airbox boots in case one ofem wasn't sealing properly, having different amount of air into  that one carb making the balancing impossible... We'll see anyway....

  2. 5 hours ago, PanzerWomble said:

    It's idling high because there is too much petrol getting in the motor , either on one or all four of the cylinders. This is the problem , it's not air leaks or CDI units or even buggered plugs although all of those will not help with running. 

    You have the correct carbs for the bike ? ID 31310 - 32mm Mikunins. 

    - CORRECT

    You've cleaned these till they are blue in the face -check ok ?

    - CORRECT 

    You're 100% certain you have reassembled them correctly ? *

    - CORRECT, USING GSX750E/ES MANUAL

    Plenty of slack and well lubed throttle and choke cable - check ok ? 

    - CORRECT

    Cables not getting trapped for any reason ?

    - CORRECT

    Tried physically pushing the butterfly mechanism shut whilst it is running ? 

    - YES AND IT LOWERES DOWN BUT GETS OUT OF SYNC 

    Pilot screws all same and set - not sure why you have them at 1.5, should be 2.25 but possible someone has over jetted it ? Pilot jet should be 40 main jet 120.

    - PILOT IS 45 LIKE IN THE OTHER 3 SETS OF CARBS (TRIED 40 AND THE SAME BUT SPLUTTERING) AND MAIN ARE 117,5

    Choke mechanisms all retracting nicely into the bodies ?

    - CORRECT

    All slides move up and down easily in the carb bodies , not warped or slightly bent needles holding them up slightly ?- If you have an air line you can check the movement of the slides by feeding air into the upper passages to make them move up , and then observe the fall . They should all be the same , which will also be shown on the gauges you are using for synching. 

    - THANX!!! 

    Identify if it is one cyl or all of them - Are all four pipes getting the same amount of hot , remove a lead from each cyclinder in turn to see if there is a one that makes a difference. 

    — DONE, ALL THE SAME

    How does it idle under load, if you let out the clutch in first with the brake on is the bike fighting you or does it settled down to a lower RPM easily ? Again one cytl or the bank of 4 ? 

    Finally when balancing the correct sequence , it's middle - balance 2/3 .....left balance 1/2 .....right balance 3/4 . In No 3 is running the best then balancing correclty  maybe the issue . 

    *Have you got the proper workshop manual ? If not I can share it with you . 

    Thanx a lot man, bike stopped coming back home from work, bike is 1,5.turns and loox like it's drowned in petrol... Yep,. 

    5 hours ago, PanzerWomble said:

     

     

     

     

    IMG-20210623-WA0009.jpeg

  3. On 6/18/2021 at 6:51 PM, PanzerWomble said:

    Huh 

     

    I might have missed it but when your balancing the carbs and you rev the bike the movement of the guages doesn't tell you anything either ? 

    I can get all gauges with the same readings but goes up to about 2200rpm, it can only idle more or less when unbalanced but of course, when throttle blimped it returns down very slowly, VERY. 

  4.  

    9 hours ago, PanzerWomble said:

     

     

    .............And it'll probably still be running too rich......most likely on the pilot circuit ............although it might be a sticky throttle cable in the end I fear . 

    I WISH...Cable has slang, butterflies snap closed...But I'll make a new cable anyway. On thing I found out riding is the following:

    - When I stop at a traffic light 4 example, if I have the idle screw without touching throttle shaft the bike idles down and eventually dies..If I screw it in just a bit more than touching she revs up to about 1800rpm. Could it be that the needle slides rise up by some reason? 

     

  5. Well, I've given the bitch a ride today after 7 bloody months....Managed to lower her down with lean mix on mix screws (1,5 turns out). I pur some tape on 2 air box manifolds to carbs where were some small cracks (on the end of the manifolds stuck to the carbs)....Anyway, riding the bike the idle was very unestable of course...Ir went up or down slowly and died if I didn't blimp the throttle. Like very "organic", like an air leak, but must be on those airbox manifolds. I finaly found 4 in good condition, fckin 70 bux but had to gettem.Receivin them in a 2 weeks. Motor runs well, power in lows mids and highs,just needs the blimming problem solved and tune up...Riding the bike I feel the problem is not so damn catastrophic. Anyway, beer time. By the way RickLee, the caps are spotless but thanx anyway m8!

  6. 2 hours ago, PanzerWomble said:

    Huh 

     

    I might have missed it but when your balancing the carbs and you rev the bike the movement of the guages doesn't tell you anything either ? 

    Well basically what happens is that the bike, to have all 4 carbs synced, has to be around 2000rpm or more, When throttle blimped 4 gauges act the same...4 carbs with new seals (even throttle shaft seals) butterflies spot on, new needle valve, needle and Oring, spot on float height, 4 carbs in UC, carb cleaner and compressed air...Intake boots to cyl head correct (no response with break cleaner, carb cleaner, contact cleaner or propane) but air box boots are a bit crappy, and can't find any (no stock and hardly any 2nd hand). I personally don't think airbox boots could cause such shit, I've balanced carbs without airbox with no hanging issues, actually the opposite. Thanx, I'm going to get drunk and buy a tractor. 

  7. 8 minutes ago, PanzerWomble said:

    All I can add is that I bought a cheapo Chinese 6L U/Sonic cleaning bath six years ago , and having done a lot of old old carbs, I swear by it .

    Best £100 spent that year  . Was a believer in comp air and aerosol cleaners for a long time,  but now a convert to the school of "20 minutes in the bath , wash and then  off you shoot" . Technically you should be able to get the same result with either method , but for me the U/S bath is garanteed to work , and if not sure , another 20 minutes will deffo cure it . 

    It's an arse on a bank of four having to split them down, but the hope is, you only do it the once . Without wishing to sound like a smug knob, this is what I did my 750ES resto , and it fired straight up, settled to idle with no dramas. Bike had been sat for 6 years before I bought it , and two years after that , so plenty of time to gunge up .

     

    If you can run to it , well worth the investment IMHO . 

    I bought one too, but doesn't seem 3 B my problem... I THIN I'M THE PROBLEM. 

    IMG_20210216_182713.jpg

    IMG_20210216_182645.jpg

  8. 8 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

    Could this be something daft like a vac. hose disconnected on #3 for a fuel tap vac. connection missing or a vac. check port uncovered. It sounds like #3 is running right (or rather more normally, as one would expect if this is the 'reference carb') and the others are too rich, possibly why it all goes 'pete tong' as it warms up?

    Dammit I'm thinking the same as you, but vacuum port (for petcock) from number 2 is blocked and fuel line goes to refference cylinder number 3...All 4 vacuum sync ports are closed with thei screws and copper rings...But yes, it looks like something so stupid that when I find out I'll get drunk & commit suicide.

  9. I know I'm a pain in the arse...But I started the bitch this morning, starts easy and revs are OK cold (dies slowly if choke not used and it's very warm here in Spain), ...Revs go straight down when blimp't the throttle with cold motor...It's when warm when she fckn hangs specially when throttle blimped...At least it's better than before...I wanted to buy the airbox boots but out of stock...No second hand....I disconected spark caps 1 by 1 yesterday, all exactly the same...BUT spark 3 is clear compared with all the rest that are pitch black. Something going in in that 3...the 2 is OK.

  10. 8 hours ago, RickLee said:

    The reason I ask Satan Sam is because I wonder if you installed a needle and seat like this with nothing holding the needle in place ( in its seat ). Or is that how it’s done with the rebuild kits?   I notice also that this seat has a screen filter apparently taped onto the underside as opposed to the plastic filter in the originals seat.   Could be we just bought kits that don’t or wont work.

    image.jpg

    Is that a chinese cheap kit? I've seen friends using them but they often don't stick to the specs from the dealer...I'm no expert, that's why I've got a 12 page topic! But I don't like the look of that screen filter...HAve a look and see if you can match original plastic filters on them. A part from that, needle must simply be put in the valve and will be basically always be in touch with the fliat "tounge" 

  11. 18 hours ago, RickLee said:

    When fitting the air box to the carbs sometimes one of the intake tubes (usually an inner one) does not connect, or wrap its lips around the carb. And sucks a ton of unwanted air. 

    Yep, I've sealed everything,sprayed with contact cleaner (the best response after starter spray) and nothing...Cylinder 3 runs leaner than the rest....Carbs spotless....What the heck!

     

  12. 22 hours ago, Dezza said:

    If it's running rough because of a reason unconnected with carb balancing (likely) then balancing the carbs with a set of meters is going to be nigh-on impossible.

    BS carbs are a pain in the arse to get right anyway due to the screw and locknut adjusters, rather than the much more user friendly spring loaded adjusters on BSTs. I just bench sync my BS 36s and my engine runs fine. A bench sync will be fine until the fault(s) are finally found. If it's still running rough it's not due to poorly synced carbs.

    If three sets of carbs have been tried this strongly suggests the poor running is not due to a carb problem. I would go through the ignition system wiring and then each component of the system. Try a set of Kawasaki 3ohm coils (ZXR, ZZR etc. cheap on eb@y) as you can easily renew the leads and caps, unlike Suzuki coils of the 80s in which the lead is moulded into the coil. Examine closely the connector blocks on the CDI. These corrode and work loose. New ones are a few quid each.

    Hitachi not Toshiba hahaha...Gonna try them again...But as you say, going to test the signal cables, connectors...

  13. 3 hours ago, Dezza said:

    If it's running rough because of a reason unconnected with carb balancing (likely) then balancing the carbs with a set of meters is going to be nigh-on impossible.

    BS carbs are a pain in the arse to get right anyway due to the screw and locknut adjusters, rather than the much more user friendly spring loaded adjusters on BSTs. I just bench sync my BS 36s and my engine runs fine. A bench sync will be fine until the fault(s) are finally found. If it's still running rough it's not due to poorly synced carbs.

    If three sets of carbs have been tried this strongly suggests the poor running is not due to a carb problem. I would go through the ignition system wiring and then each component of the system. Try a set of Kawasaki 3ohm coils (ZXR, ZZR etc. cheap on eb@y) as you can easily renew the leads and caps, unlike Suzuki coils of the 80s in which the lead is moulded into the coil. Examine closely the connector blocks on the CDI. These corrode and work loose. New ones are a few quid each.

    Thanx Dezza, gonna try that tomorrow,ice got 2 new Toshiba coils at home 

  14. 7 hours ago, Pudzrx said:

    So have you disconnected 1 x spark plug lead at a time when its revving to see which cylinder is hanging it up ? I still find it hard to believe you know what you are doing when it comes to balancing 4 x carbs as well , no offence.

    Puddy  :)

    Thanx Pud. With 4 butterflies benchsynced with a soldering wire (for example)as measurement, all totally closed or open up to the 1st hole before butterfly.. there is not much space for bad balancing (nearly spot on) and to be honest, balancing,2, 3 or 4 carbs isn't that misterious...thanx anyway Pud. 

  15. Mornin' amigos!

    Long time no speak...I've started with the suzi again, from the beginning, like a retarded (like always).

    As I've got  3 sets of carbs, all clean 100%., with UC, carb cleaner and compressed air. All diaphragms perfect, gaskets too. Bech sync and mounted with air box and intake manifolds perfectly sealed...All jets correct size, choke working correctly...

    Valve clearence correct, compression 160 each so correct.

    I'm getting a set of carbs in with new throttle shaft viton rings and correct butterfly positions, now Vitons are the only part I can think about....Air lieak like most of you say. Bike synced, fuel screws 2,5 turns out (and more!), idle at about 2000rpm, I close the air filtet intake with my fingers and of course it loweres down...So excess of air...

    Anyway, if anybody has a last tip...I might be near success or storing the bike...This bike uses a CDI so I don't think it can be anything to do with advanced timing (I've tried 3 CDIs already!).

    Cheerz!

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