NorthernBloke
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Posts posted by NorthernBloke
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Not sure if it’s relevant but Tl1000’s have a similar issue where the charging voltage drops as revs increase. There is a wiring mode to fix it maybe Srads are the same, certainly the same era?
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I went through a very similar experience a few years ago on my old ES, I could never get it running cleanly on the original carbs and as you say Getting it running something like without the airbox was the way I also approached it. But I never got it running right it would often run on less than 4 cylinders intermittently and it always felt as though I was trying to drag the revs up or out of it, I gave up and fitted Bandit 1200 carbs and Ramair filters and it was 100 times better, like a brand new bike!
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Autumn update, No further progress until recently was making the most of the dry weather but with the night's closing in iv'e pulled the trigger and started the dry rear end build.
I've loosely assembled things to check the fit and alignment and clearance and all those other things to consider. Iv'e got to make some new dog bones, just waiting for the steel to arrive, before I can put it on its wheels and double check the alignment.
A couple of questions, how freely and easily should the swinger pivot without anything else involved, I forgot to check my original before the strip down? I think I might have added too many thrust washers as it locks up when I tighten it up.
Secondly the new dog bone angle is somewhere in between the GSXR and the Busa because I'm mixing the two, does the angle look okay on the photo? TBH I can't see it working any other way, also will the mix of GSXR linkage & shock with Busa arm and custom dog bones effect the ratio and operation of the rear end?
Anyway here are the photo's
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Just working on the swinging arm ATM, getting all the bits together. I'm going to get the axle slots and blocks welded up and then re-machined to suite the new 25mm spindle and wheel bits and pieces, that way there's less parts to be messing with once its done. I will then use the Prillier caliper and bracket and to make this work I've got hold of a locating peg for the caliper bracket and will mount that into the Busa swinger, I will drill and tap it into the arm, but I am concerned that the single skin of the arm won't be strong enough to take the braking forces. I am wondering if its worth getting a solid block of aluminium welded into the arm and then drill and tap the steel pin into this, what do you guy think?
Here's some pics to explain it all,
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15 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:
Make some top hat spacers, 28mm od, 25mm id to slide through the busa chain adjuster blocks and then into the swingarm adjuster slots, you can use 25mm spindle then.
Another good idea is to stick a ruler from the centre of the wheel to the inside face of the sprocket on the wheel your going to be using. Slingshot standard is 100mm ish iirc, if wheel your using is more you need to suss out how to address keeping the wheel central and the chain alignement correct. Busa/TL/srad/k series gsxr are 110mm. Takes a bit of machining etc to to get them fitted properly. I think aprillia wheels are more than 110mm.
Measured the wheel and its approximately 110mm from centre to inside sprocket face.
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Thanks for all the info guys, I've discounted the bearing swap as all the bearings I can find with the correct i/d & o/d are wider than the current ones so would need machining to fit. So will go with the spacer option. As suggested going through the caliper bracket as well is a great idea. As for the hub width I think it will need machining as the sprocket bolts catch on the arm as it is, I'll measure the sprocket to centre line as MeanBean suggested.
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Been doing some mocking up and measuring today, to check that things will basically fit together and then working out a plan. Still trying to resolve the 28mm to 25mm axle issue & was wondering if any other Suzuki axle blocks might already have a 25mm spindle hole, spent hours looking today but not found anything, maybe some of the newer GSXR's might fit, any suggestions? Anyway some pics coz I know you like em.
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Cheers, I’ll get it all mocked up and see how things line up and if possible will go 530 with a custom sprocket . If not will go for top quality 520.
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The issue is that I'm going to use a forged OZ Prillier rear wheel and they come with 525 chainsets or 520's so I'm trying to keep it simple as JT do 520 front sprockets for the bike so 520 is the common denominator. I would prefer 530, to go 530 would mean getting a custom rear sprocket made and I'm not sure how much that would cost? maybe that's the best option though....
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Just going through all the minor details of this rear end swap and it looks as though II'll need to go for a 520 chain-set without going for custom one offs. This should also help with chain clearance but will a 520 be safe on my standard 1100? I'm not planning on tuning it apart from maybe going fuel injection at a later date.
PS I plan to add a slight stretch to the Busa arm as well as its currently shorter than the standard arm, so maybe going with the bolt on extenders or something like them, not sure if this makes the 520 chain issue better or worse?
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Update - I've gone for a Gen 1 Busa arm as I'm assured they are an easy fit. Also got a forged Prillier wheel coming too. gone for the matching Prillier caliper and bracket as well.
so this issue now is 28mm Busa rear wheel spindle and 25mm for the Prillier wheel etc. I'm in no rush as this is all gearing up for the winter but need to work out the easiest option to make things fit. The option I'm warming to is getting new adjuster blocks made for the smaller 25mm Prillier spindle along with getting the swingarm adjuster slots made smaller so everything on the Prillier wheel, cush and caliper carrier can be retained as is. Not sure if the swinging arm slots could be welded up and machines smaller and same for the adjuster blocks ? I've looked into bearing swaps for the wheel and cush drive but the only ones the right dimensions are actually thicker ( wider?) so may need the wheel and cush machining to fit which might be more difficult, any experience of similar from anyone?
Cheers.
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NRP or Allen’s performance do them, I got mine from Allen’s
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On 6/26/2020 at 11:21 PM, markfoggy said:
pm for more details, i will try to remember.
Thanks Mark I think I’m going to go either Busa or K1-4 arms with a Prillier wheel, the arms should fit fairly easily so it’s then just the wheel alignment.
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2 hours ago, Ade said:
Is that the wheel you want? Looks like a snowflake.
Cheers Ade, Yes that's the one, I'm looking for really slim spokes and with the Aprilia ones there are a lot of them about even some forged ones and with me being on a budget and all.
As for the arms I'm wondering what the lengths are as I want one at least as long as the current one, nothing shorter.
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I'm looking to start planning the next round of mods for the coming winter and am looking to fit a different Swinger to my WP, not sure if WP's are the same frame pivot dimensions as earlier slingies are so not sure where exactly to post this, Admins please move to wherever you think is best. Anyway I'm aware that Gen 1 Busa's are a relatively easy fit and that's the style I'm going for straight with the top bracing. but I wondered about SRAD's and say what now!? K1's to K4's as they all have that similar look?
Iv'e dug into part numbers etc and some are similar and others aren't so I'm not clear, so I wondered if anyone has the critical dimensions for any of these swingers & wheels and spindles etc?
I'm also interested in using Prillier snowflake wheels similar to Vizman's rear on old red, so again anyone fitted the Prillier wheel to any of the above rear ends?
cheers.
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Welcome from a fellow Water Boiler owner, keep the pictures coming. Yours looks pretty clean.
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Have you re compared the "new" cables to your original ones to see if one is 5 mm shorter as patter cables can differ slightly from genuine ones? Also the cables generally have no slack in them at all so its always tight to put them back on. When I did mine I connected the carb ends first and had all adjusters slackened off as far as they will go, I then connected the bottom cable at the throttle end and then prized the top cable into its slot and hole with a thin screwdriver.
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From what I’ve read it is possible but only the rear lower engine mount can be retained all the others need to be made from scratch and the oil boiler engine is slightly larger so might need to be tilted slightly to fit. You might also need to swap the sump depending on what exhaust you use. Good luck with it.
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On 2/7/2020 at 8:50 PM, fuelline said:
How's it going fella?
Nearly there with the clocks, got them wired up but can't fully test them yet until I get it running again in a few weeks time. Just finishing the bracket for the clocks, finished mounting the speed sensor and bought more magnets to get a more consistent speedo feed. final bit is then shortening the wiring to the clocks to keep it neat, need to work out the best way to do it or if the loom will pull back into the engine area between the frame.
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Welcome,
Whats the overall plan for it?
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Okay I believe the keyster or something like that are supposed to be decent
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On 10/28/2019 at 11:25 AM, dupersunc said:
Don't think there is the advantage of smaller combustion chambers like on the 750 dot conversion, and the ports are higher so carbs wouldn't fit in a stock frame.
Early wn/p 1100 had mild cams so 750 cams were and improvement, later 1100 wr/s models had better cams. 1127cc oil cooled pistons give a slight over bore and higher cr so are a worthwhile mod.
Great engines that were softened off by the factory as they produced a bit too much for chassis and tyre tech of the time.
Do you know if the 750 cams are a direct replacement, same for the WR / WS? Also are the cam caps line bored so how does that effect using “new” cams.
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Thanks Dan I’m sorted now I bought the colour diagram, the pdf copy I had was too blurred to read.
TLR alternative bolt on front calipers?
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
Posted
Evening gents,
I've gone and added another water cooled Zuk to the collection, its been stood for a while so the brakes are properly goosed and seized on. Given they are the notorious 6 pots which are expensive and a pain to recondition & bleed, can I fit Nissin 4 pots 90mm spacing from a say what now!? or Trumpet or anything else?
Anyone done this are can recommend another cheap alternative as this one needs to be done on a budget!