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69chris

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Posts posted by 69chris

  1. hey guys,

    finally got the bike together enough to start..............................oil's leaking out of exhaust, as expected as iv yet to sort restrictor out.......................although thats not for the want of trying !!!!!

    i started out with 3 banjos and 2 taps.........im now down to 1 banjo that doesn't have a broken tap in it :$

    you'd think id learn wouldn't ya :D

    so, rather than annoy myself any further with my failures is there anyone out there who could/would drill/tap my remaining banjo for me in exchange for some ££££ please ??  

    :)

  2. no mods other than extend a few wires as battery was bit further away/laid down,  relocated cdi/fuse box etc 

    dont know anything about the battery im afraid other than it was the battery that came fitted to a standard R6 (Yuasa maybe ??) , iirc correctly it was the same battery that the R1 used so i figured it'd be up to the job, had the bike for a further few years as my daily and it never gave any problem,

    the bike went onto a mate who did a 1216 conversion and it was still ok 

    if i were buying a battery now id be tempted to go for a motobatt tbh, iv had them on a few bikes and even after being left standing with no chargers they have always held charge.....this one even looks smaller than usual ???

    https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-YZF-R1-Motobatt-Maintenance-Free-Upgrade-Battery-20-Extra-Power-2004-14/381722766829?epid=600815010&hash=item58e0732ded:g:igUAAOSwSlBYvFqY:rk:34:pf:0

  3. On 2/19/2019 at 8:11 AM, clivegto said:

    It's was just a brass plug in the end of my ones, drill it out carefully swap T's for pipe & pipe clips. Stubs that are drilled out do look a little short on the out side of the carbs but the pipes on my set up have never moved in over 3000 miles. This mod stopped the splutter between 5k & 6K when coming onto boost.

    did mine today,  didnt need to drill plugs tho, just stripped carb bank then used a long thin drift to knock plug out from the tee end.....ended up being a brass ball ....

    BdsTIif.jpg

    never having stripped a bank of carbs before i didnt know about the little coil springs in the linkage to each carb..........2 hours later i had found them......about 1 hour later i had managed to get the swines back in place !!!!!

    after have read about boost opening the choke circuit i doubled up the spring whilst i had it apart,,, it needs holding open now and snaps back closed when released so hopefully it wont be an issue in the future..

    NKDXHWo.jpg

     

    On 2/19/2019 at 8:11 AM, clivegto said:

     

     

    • Like 1
  4. 1 minute ago, homer said:

    What kind of filter you have? If it is very fine filter you should place it after the pump to avoid pump cavitation. If it is coarse then place it before the pump.

    Up pipe is ok for the pressure gauge. But I would recommend to use good fitting for the hoses and forget those spikey things

    tbh i just got one that popped up on that site, its a sytec motorsport universal thing with 10 - 20 micron  of filtery voodoo........dunno what that means tho         

  5. just at the 'laying out of pumps/reg/fuel lines etc' stage and thought it 'd be wise to add a filter,

    have bought one off that site but should the order be.........

    tap - filter - pump - reg - (temp pressure gauge) - carbs

    or

    tap - pump - filter - etc etc ??

    also, wheres the best place to tap into for boost gauge ? iv got one of those spikey bolt through silicon pipe fittings for the gauge and was thinking of going into the silicon elbow from up pipe to plenum... sound ok  ??

    :)

     

  6. 49 minutes ago, El Gringo said:

    There isn't much of one on the 400 carbs either. I was wondering if i could tap the bit that is there out and use a threaded fitting with a hose barb end to give it something a bit more positive to connect to but decided to try lock wire on the normal rubber tees first

    curiosity got the better of me so popped out for a look......there is more of a stub than i had noticed lol !!!

    Cg5UCFP.jpg

    deffo something to do once carbs are back off.....although the wording 'just needs drilling through carefully' shits me up ........mr cack handed should be my name      :$   

    • Like 1
  7. 1 minute ago, El Gringo said:

    A little internal sleeve might work if you can get it in

    The outer feeds i picked up from here - 

     

    cheers - that is a neat solution !!!  i dont think there is a huge 'stub' sticking out of my outer carbs to get the hose onto mind ?  tbh i haven't really looked that hard  

  8. 1 minute ago, El Gringo said:

    It possibly would, but unless you've got the carbs aparti can't see how you'd get them back in. Mine need the squishyness to get them between the stubs.

    Ideally i'd take them apart and make a soild joint across and the drill and use the outer unused connections (as per the turbo spondon bandit thread) but i can't get my carbs apart

    I'm hoping the lockwire will at least hold some of the boost in

    ahhh i see, i wasnt thinking of replacing the whole tee, just dropping in a small 'dowel' like inset into the tee so the jubilee clip could get a bit of a squeeze on it,   

    i didnt know there was an option of outer feeds ????

  9. On 2/6/2019 at 10:00 AM, El Gringo said:

     

    where the tees feed the float bowl vents from the pitot tube, the rubber is very soft and doesn't seal very well over the stubs. I've now lockwired these to try and seal them a bit better but it's not ideal.

    i was messing with my gxsr11 carbs yesterday and had the same thing, the tee's are squishy and although i haven't tried it yet im expecting issues as cant tighten the clips too much as it'll just collapse the tee's,  i did wonder if cutting a couple of inserts from a bit of thin walled pipe and gluing them into the tee's might help ??

     

     

  10. 49 minutes ago, bluedog59 said:

    I don't know if they still do but Goodrich's used to do a fitting that looked like the normal end type fitting but actually had a Jubilee clip inside. Spray the fitting that converts the cooler from thread to "push on" blue and you can look posh on the cheap ( not that I've ever done this in the past your honour ).

    thats my kinda cheap  :tu

  11. 3 minutes ago, wraith said:

    May help, AN3 size is brake line size, most oil coolers will be AN8 or going big AN10.

    I've always used AN8 size (think it's about 8mm IB) but someone will be along to correct me on that xD

    Usually when you order your oil cooler it will say if it's for a AN6/AN8/AN10 

    The bigger the number the bigger the bore, hope this helps

    Yes you can use a jubilee clips, as long as you get the push on fittings, as standard oil lines are crimped on from the steel hose to the flex hose.

    I've used jubilee clips on a gs550/gsx750f hybrid rat bike before now and used it daily for about 3 years with now problems.

    cheers chap, 

    i know proper fittings look nicer/work better etc etc but unless i can find a complete used set up (still off work with no sick pay so pennies are too tight for a new kit :$)  ill resort to some jubilee clip hackery until i can afford the proper kit  (y)

  12. 55 minutes ago, CockneyRick said:

    Other than it looking tacky & "car related" the Oil presure isn't great enough to blow them off.

    But why take the risk, to save money & actually look cheap :P

    tbh it was more of a convenience thing as, frankly the whole AN size's thing confuses the fudge outta me :$

    recently won a complete used cooler/hoses/fitting on Eblag, then the sellers p/pal account was suspended so couldnt pay, asked for bank details to send payment and got sent wrong numbers.....now the chap wont answer messages....... awesome lol  !!

    so, got a brand new Setrab 19row cooler......didnt realise that needs metric fittings so  looks like i'll be needing adaptors (which leads me back to the confusing AN stuff !!)  hence the question as a couple of barbs at the cooler end would solve the problem

    cheap looking is ok.........dont need lipstick on a pig :tu

    • Like 2
  13. possibly opening myself to ridicule here (sadly a common occurrence!!) but .....................

    is there any reason, other than perhaps aesthetics, that the oil lines to the cooler cant be secured using barbed/slip over type  fittings and jubilee clips ??

    over the years have fitted loads of aftermarket oil coolers to cars using the above method with no problems, 

    or am i (as usual) missing something ????

    :)

  14. On 1/28/2019 at 1:03 PM, SiBag said:

    I asked a similar question the other week in general chat.

     

    I got this reply of @Bow

    "If your looking for a cheap alternative, take a look at the FZ/ FZR/ YZF Yam taps.

    plain and simple on/off, high flow rate, 8mm bore, and same mounting centres,  and not as tall as Suzuki’s vacuum tap.

    some of us racers have been keeping it a secret for years ,  pmsl…"

     

    Not checked it out yet myself..

    cheers bud, i looked into that option as a 'bolt on' option but the yam bolt spacing is only 34mm(iirc) so ok for bandit's and slabbys (again, iirc) but no use for 44mm  slingshot spacing, 

    would need a spacer/adaptor making thus increasing height or welding a new mount into tank to suit,

    have modified my original tap to non vac now so still have off/on/res......................fingers crossed my hackery holds up lol !!!!

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