Macduff

A further thought question. Has anyone fitted a slingshot CDI to a slabby? I'm thinking possibly a longstroke 750 slingy should have similar settings to the 750 slabby and it could just be a case of fiddling with connectors and possibly swapping ignition pickups over (or hopefully using slabby ones)?

Eureka! I have eventually managed to get all the fairing on and removed all the previous owner(s) bodged bits that fudged how it fitted together. After many attempts to fit the full front fairing I realised there was no way it was going on and mounting properly to engine and bottom frame mount points as Suzuki intended. It came to me with some alloy bits that moved the cylinder block mount point forward an inch or so and the bottom frame mounts weren't used at all so the belly pan swung in the breeze of the engine side panels waiting for all the mounts to crack and fall off. I found the reason eventually was it had been fitted with a 1100 slabby front fairing subframe and mirror stay which pushed the front cowl forward and upwards compared to where it should have been. I located an F rear mirror stay as NOS but didnt find an F faring subframe but found a G one (off Eblag) . This all seems to have allowed the belly pan and side panel to hook up with the correct mounting points for the 1st time in all the years I've owned it. .. I had to seriously hack the belly pan to clear the Yoshi system at the trailing edge of RHS belly pan for link pipe clearance and a large hole underneath so the 4-1 collectors could poke through with the front bottom lip (and its metal clamp) being cut out to clear the front of the headers. I reused the clamp on the bottom at the front to stop it coming apart. I didn't feel too guilty hacking original F belly pan bits as mine had been glass fibred into one piece and has a few gel coat cracks showing. if they were pristine panels I may have looked at aftermarket panels to chop up.

Measured the primary resistance of the coil over plugs and they are 1.4ohms so 2.8ohms in series. Will that be too low for the slabby cdi and fry it due to pulling more current?

Cheers that’s v’useful .

I thought it would be a good idea to do a Coil over plug conversion on my 750 slabby as it misfires at the slightest hint of damp on the leads. I located a set of coils from Eblag for a 600 oil boiler and when I tried to stuff them down the plug hole they seemed to sit a few inches proud of the top of the cam cover. Is this normal or had I not pushed them in far enough?. Next question when using coil over plugs do the spark plugs have the top nipple fitted or not? My plugs don't have the nipple fitted for the normal plug leads.

My VM29s are from a Jap import , I wonder if the solid plungers are a feature of Jap market bikes?

Just back from a short test run.. It sounds much better than the Lazer exhaust which I though sounded very strangled. It seems to be flowing much better as its now showing its gone a bit lean, will try a small tweak of the idle mixture screws and lifting the needles one groove to see if that sorts it as its mostly just off idle and before full throttle that is feels a little flat.

Looks lovely , keep an eye on the MV rear hub and its bearings some of them are known to be a bit shiet. Theres a bloke on MVaugusta.net that makes his own billet hubs to replace the fragile MV ones. I cant recall which ones were good or bad , some 4 cylinder bikes had bad ones and I think most 3 cyl bikes were weak with a recommended 10k miles service life for the hub itself,. the torque settings for clamping the hub can be critical, even a little over can crush the hub and goose the bearings (been there bought the T-shirt), so much that the handbook recommends chain adjustment is done by your local MV dealer !..

After being well impressed at how the slabby copes with the local rippled and generally shietely surfaced roads we have locally I've decided to treat to some bits. The exhaust fitted was a Lazer road legal system probably from back when slabbies' weren't long gone from showroom floors and despite its being mild steel headers it hasn't suffered from much rot with most of the black chrome? paint still being attached. However the can is slightly tweaked on the inside and its mount slot for the captive nut is split so probably a ride away from falling off (it nearly did on my 1st test ride) . I've been letching over the re-made Yoshi Cyclone stainless systems and given the (slight) issues with the fitted one (and it'll rot up 'ere in the sodden north) I decided to spend the housekeeping funds on one. Decided to go for all stainless rather than the more expensive Carbon or titainium cans as its cheaper and probably a bit more roboust(?) Fitting was far easier than it was for me when I fitted a Yoshi cyclone to my FZR1000 back when were they current.

My slabbby carb plungers look exactly like your pic .

Getting it to start without resorting to witchcraft.. by which time the brakes had seized and battery expired .. also treat it to new airbox rubbers as the old uns were harder than iron. It starts /idles a lot better with the airbox connected though think my ignition leads/coils are showing their age as any damp on them makes it misfire or become a pig to start and keep running.

I have the F belly pan unfortunately it touches the pipes when fitted. It has the G or later front fairing subframe so fairing mounts don't allow the F sides and belly to line up the mounts on engine/frame. I have a set of later bodywork that needs painting I'm tempted to get that done , though also on the lookout for a F spec fairing subframe as I do prefer the early fairing belly pan style.

I was registered on the old site back when I first picked this 750 slabby up but lost the account and email address used so registered new . I didn't do much with it in the mean time , carbs needed bits , cleaning , setting up, front brake calipers were goosed and needed a full set of pistons/ seals . It's just passed the MOT and been taken for a short test run to make sure it didn't fall to bits or explode. Seems ok bit gravelly on the overrun that goes when clutch is pulled so might be some clutch basket related chatter. Carbs could probably do with fine tuning as it flat spots slightly on gear changes after closed throttle, but it's seems to pull well if not startlingly fast from 3~4K rpm. Hard to tell how well its revving out as rev counter starts to sulk once it gets to 7k rpm but trys to catch up if you hold it a higher revs. Rides nice for a 30 year old bike. Ps its originally an 86 jap import G but at some point was fitted with F bodywork.