johnr
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Posts posted by johnr
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it might be worth going back to the original coils if only to simplify things, if youre changing stuff then its best to only do one thing at a time, youve got a misfire and a new cdi, new alternator and 4 new coils, so there are a lot of variables.
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lesson number 1, before reaching for the laptop, reach for the multimeter. first thing to check on any bike when you have any problem thats remotely electrically related, check the charging voltage. if a bulb blows, you get a misfire, anything electrical or electronic fails or behaves funny, check your voltage. sounds like your duff alternator has cooked something, poss ignition pickups, poss one or more of your new coils.
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you wont get a set of hagons for 150 quid though.
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tbh if a bike is submerged its not a major problem if you strip it and sort it straight away. but if its been flooded and then sat round waiting for the insurance company to fork out then it could be ok, or it could be an utterly fucked rusty piece of crap and that should be reflected in the price. even if it were a minter pre flood, 2400 is a lot of cash for it cos its a huge gamble and by the time youve rebuilt it then you could have bought a runner and kept your hands clean. not for nothing to insuance firms write off submerged bikes as having zero value.
however, tell him 2400 is fine, so long as he also accepts 2400 for the kat and 2400 for the vincent too....-
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why not post pictures. then we can see what you are talking about. its possible that the bike you have has either got an aftermarket swingarm or one from another bike, or else the shocks you have are wrong.
gs should have fork on the bottom iirc, certainly the 1000 has, have you got a manual for it yet? surely the first port of call if you are restoring. either that or else look up the bike on a site like alpha sports, find the microfiche for your model and have a look at the shocks they list there. -
drop the oil first to see if any got in. but for a bike that may requaire an engine strip, new chain, new wheel bearings and a fair bit of remedial work, 2400 sounds like a lot of cash. was the previous owner not insured then?
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im not sure the freezer idea is all that good. ok theres a possibility that the seal may microscopically shrink and ease fitting, but equally, freezing a rubber seal might make it brittle and likely to crack or split due to reduced flexibility. i think id rather stick the seal in some boiling water to soften the rubber, then smear round the outside with a little wellseal, that way it may slightly lubricate it and also take up any irregularities caused by forcing it in sideways.
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and your shed is too tidy, wheres your spirit of adventure......
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as has been said, the s models had an 18 inch rear, the e models had a 17 inch rear and perhaps easiest of all, the first gs models with slide carbs had different sizes. 1000e had 26mm slide carbs and the 1000s had 28mm slides. i see the bike in question has slides on it so have a measure and see whats there.
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like the cma's on the 1000s stevie, very very retro cool!! (not sure about white though.....)
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easiest way to tell the difference is to ask your mate how much he wants for it. if he says give me 1500 quid, its probably a 1000e, if he says i want five grand, its probably a 1000s......
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when i built my first kat i fitted dyna coils and had bother with missfires, it was really hit and miss and i couldnt figure out what was wrong. i once ran all the way back from the lakes on 2 cylinders, ok it was still a kat so i was stuck at about 70-80 mph, anyhow, after much headscratching it turned out that the ht leds where they went into the coils were being crushed against the bottom of the tank when it was full of fuel, as soon as id burned a bit off it was ok as the reduced fuel load let the rubber tank mounts lift the tank off the coil poles, full of fuel and it would missfire within 10 miles. the dynas being fatter than stock coils took up a bit more room and touched the base of the tank. relocating them solved it completely, though ive still got the tank with the tiny pinhead sized scorch marks where the sparks eroded the paintwork! worth having a look at whether anything is fouling the ht side when the bodywork is back on.
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check it lights on and lights off. then check that the stupid stock suzuki wiring layout has been modified to remove the third phase of the generator through the light switch, route all three phases of the alternator directly to the 3 inputs of the reg rec. if youre getting in the region of 13-5 to 14.5 v dc at the battery engine running then youre about right, but less than 13 and more than 15 and id be checking that everything is earthed correctly and plugged into clean metal before re testing. it.
having said all that, alternators and reg recs are dirt cheap now so its not the major issue it used to be.-
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original ones were 13l silver with a blue textured tailpiece and a grey/blue suede effect vinyl seat, silver frame, snowflake pattern wheels and black stands, silver front mudguard with satin black rear section and headlight surround on fairing satin black too. silver engine. 750 sz's had silver tailpieces, psilver annodized swingarm, black chainguard. post 82 sz and sd models had smooth non textured tailpieces. the 13l code wont mean anything to most paint dealers now though, best to get a piece colour matched from some original paint. though im told that there is a nissan silver car paint thats an almost spot on match.
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lol, its in the study, i will go have a dig.
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although in defence of the original poster, had he come here and asked if it was a good idea to fit an oil temp gauge to a stock blandit then it would be right and propper to all have a good old titter at his folly, however, if i read his post correctly, he says he has a blandit with a mr turbo kit on it, in that case i think id want some indication on how the oil is doing, although id probably want a pressure gauge rather than a temp gauge. it depends on how well set up the turbo was when it was fitted, and what boost he is running.
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what are the wheels? they look familiar but i cant place them.
doh!, edit, i spetted that theyre cma's ive got the 3 spokes for my kat project, are they stock sizes? mine have fecking enormous iron disks on the front, them on yours look like kawasaki fitments with the four bolts. -
gsxf? that would be oil cooled then surely........
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pics or model details might help. et 750 ? kat 750? if its on an x plate then it could be either.
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chances are it will have shock absorber springs in the back of the clutch, and like most suzukis of the era, they wear and compress or break. take the basket out and have a look, you should be able to repair it or else see if theres another used basket thats not so worn.
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not sure that the japanese home market katanas were restricted. the way the japanese restrict folks from riding bikes with too much power is to have a ridiculously complex stepped licencing system. the japanese tended to fit speed warning lights on the clocks rather than actually cut the power. on the few markets that had power limits i think they restricted them using smaller bore outlet holes in the end of the silencers and smaller jets in the carbs.
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ok, first off you need to find out why your filler is letting water in the tank, if its a recessed filler, then when you take the cap off, you will see a small hole in the bottom of the recess that is designed to let rainwater drain away, they easily get blocked with crud, dirt, bits of leaves, twigs etc, so either blow it out with a compressed ait line or else use a thin wire down it to poke it clear.
next you MUST drain the tank. the petrol outlet isnt at the bottom of the tank, its slightly above it, and as water sits at the lowest point, the water you get in there will sit below the fuel take off and slowly rust away your tank from the inside. if left, it will certainly rust it through. whilst it eats the tank away, the small bits of rust that are as fine as dust will get through the system and into your carbs, clogging stuff up nicely, and dont think that you can fit a filter, the particles are fine enough to pass through any in line fuel filter you might fit. so tank off, drain fuel, take tap off, empty and dry tank then you can assess whether you just put it back on, remove the rust, or even seal the inside of the tank. this depends on how bad the corrosion is. you can buy a small probe with a small inspection camera on the end that will plug into a smartphone, you can use this to inspect inside a tank. if you find a lot of rust, youve a number of options to get rid of it. you can buy kits like por15 that will allow you to degrease, derust and then seal the tank to prevent further corrosion. or you can remove rust by electrolysis, (google electrolytic rust removal, you will need an old battery charger, a nail, some copper wire and some washing soda) its simple and very effective. but if you leave it as it is, it will rot away and give you a load of grief to sort it.
but fwiw, dont use petseal!!-
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i dont think it will take a lot of lapping to establish if it has a good contact area onto the taper or if its just a tiny sliver.
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is it the right rotor? different gsx cranks had slightly different tapers, if your rotor has a different taper to your crank it will only have a tiny contact point to the crank. try getting some valve grinding paste and lapping it onto the crank, then see how good the contact area is.
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GS1000G vs GS850
in Air Cooled
Posted
and if youre going to fit something that isnt supposed to be there, i bet there are still plenty of gsx1100g motors about (shaft drive gsxr motor)