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johnr

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Posts posted by johnr

  1. well im assuming that most gs bikes of that era will be close, obviously there may be differences like the gear selector indicator that some gs models had, but i imagine that the switchgear, lights, charging system etc will be pretty comparable, so gs550, gs650, gs850, gs1000, gs550 and 650 katana might be good places to start. i dont know if they will be identical direct swaps, but i think that a touch of common sense and a couple of hours with a multimeter and a soldering iron should make any of them more or less fit.

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  2. although if you are fitting an 1170 big bore kit to a 1075 motor, using an efe block will cut the cost of boring as youre only needing a couple of passes of the bar to open them from 1135 to 1170, just remember to use 18mm small end pistons.

     

  3. the ratio of the gears is only slightly different, i mean its not a huge difference if you look at them side by side, but obviously you need the pair (the one that sits on the back of the clutch basket-big hoe in the middle-left side gear in the pic above, and the one on the pump, right side above. make sure when you assemble it that the dogs on the larger gear are correctly engaged with the cutouts for them on the back of the clutch basket, failure to do so will cause you half an afternoon of head scratching and a large quantity of beer drunk till you realise why nothing wants to turn.... but dont expect masses of pressure, even with the uprated gears, roller crank gs/x engines run at the sort of oil pressure that will cause a gsxr owner to have a stress related  heart attack, these cranks dont need much pressure, at least not at the bottom end.

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  4. im no engine builder, or tuning expert, but ive found that the ports on these motors can have a fair few irregularities, not rough surfaces, but sudden changes in direction and casting irregularities. so i just blend them in. i dont polish or smooth the ports out, but if there are sharp angles in the ports or lines of casting joints i will clean em up.

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  5. youre only really going to know if its guides or seals when you get the valves out. dont be tempted with aftermarket valve seals, even with a famous well known tuning houses name on them. always fit genuine suzuki valve seals. otherwise, in 18 months to 2 years, you will be doing them again.  chances are it will just be valve seals.
    750 pump gears are useful to have, these motors run on incredibly low oil pressure, so spinning the pump faster and thu providing a bit more volume, even if its not pressure, is useful, if youre running a cooler, it might help overcome the resistance of additional pipework and a cooler.
    gearbox woes arent uncommon on thrashed or abused motors, but theyre a cheap fix, check the gears first before you replace anything. having the dogs undercut might help keep it in gear, although gentle treatment is equally good at prolonging life,

    and using 2 detent springs when you rebuild it is a belt and braces solution.

    • Like 1
  6. tbh that sounds like a secondary vibration rather than an engine rattle, something is loose or not tight, or else the baffles in the exhaust are coming apart. when he revs it, the rattle is on the overrun. id go round and check all the engine mounts, exhaust studs and any heat shields on the system.

  7. theres a gsx1100g on Eblag now for 500 quid, you could probably buy it and keep the motor loom and carbs and sell the rest back on to recoup some money, ebalg listing number , 

    291816316504
     
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