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51 ExcellentAbout Nik
- Birthday 08/30/1971
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Lomma, Sweden
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A mate had the same problem. Caps threaded to M8, but a bit worn. He filled the hole with JB Weld's metal epoxi, drilled it and fitted a helicoil. Worked fine.
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Yeah, I have loads of engines, to I have inlet rubbers to spare, but I thought the DOT heads had different inlet rubbers and they couldn't be mixed. I checked the DOT heads, and they all seem to use 42 mm carbs. Of course, I should have tried it though. I will try it asap. Thanks for your input!
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Hi all, I need your experience and input. Background: I have an '85 slabby with an engine from an '89 teapot. I dont have the original teapot carbs, and I planned on fitting the original slabby VM29SS carbs. After trying the VM29SS carbs, the inlet rubbers are not sealing properly. The outer diameter of the VM29SS is 40 mm and the teapot should have carbs with 42 mm diameter. The inlet rubbers are fine, but a bit hard and probably not as flexible as they once were. I don't want to damage the inlet rubbers by over tightening them, so I thought I'd fit a set of RS36 instead (42 mm outer diameter), but then I ran into clearance issues with the alternator. One of the RS 36 carbs's drain plugs hits the top of the engine block/alternator. Help needed: 1) Do you guys know of a way to seal smaller carbs to larger inlet rubbers? O-rings? Vulcanising tape? Note that it is only for a very short time. I am just getting the bike MOT'd for the last time, so it has to last a weeks or two. 2) Any trick to solve the alternator clearance problem? 3) Other suggestions or ideas? I appreciate all input.
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Let us have the numbers (or a better photo) and we can tell you where it's from.
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Good idea. I checked, and unfortunately Dynojet only shows jet kits for the vacuum carbs that were used in the U.S.
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Thanks guys. Sorry if I was unclear. I haven't fittted the carbs yet, so I have no idea how it runs. I need a ballpark jet to begin with, so I get it as close as possible to decent from the beginning. 97.5 are the original main jets, for use with airbox and original exhaust. I have to use K&N filters though (and an original exhaust from a 1990 GSX-R 750), and just like some suggestion on what main jets to try. I doubt that the exhaust makes much of a difference, but the airbox will have a bigger impact.
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Nobody with a suggestion on jetting?
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Nik started following MaxPeeding Rods for 1100W on a Bandit 12? and VM29SS carbs
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Hi all! I need your help! I am getting my last MOT on an 85 slabby soon. I have a 1216 for it, but I will fit a 748 for the MOT. I will use the original VM29SS carbs, but I do not have an airbox for it, but have to run individual K&N filters. I haven't run 750s in my bikes for ages and I am senile. Any suggestions on main jet size? It doesn't have to be perfect, just good enough for the MOT (emissions are not checked). Any help is appreciated!
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If you click the link "Replaces 09108-10108", you'll see that it's 10x168
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Most people fit DOT heads to Bandit 1157s (with their different cam chain setup, with hyvo chain and no idler). It may be that the DOT head's got a slightly different geometry, and maybe the Bandits are more forgiving and the difference doesn't get noticed when fitting them to Bandits. Just a guess.
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Did Suzuki ever use cast rods on any engine with a substantial displacement? I have never seen a stock GSX-R/F rod that wasn't forged.
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I don't write this to be mean, but there seem to be a major misunderstanding on your side concerning gearing. Normally I couldn't care less, but in this thread, too, you make comments like you know what you're talking about when others don't. In the other thread you refer to, Dot head Swap On The G Bike, you state that you cruise at 80 mph at 4,000 rpm with 16/48 gears, and others claimed it couldn't be correct. It doesn't really matter, but then you imply that your engine is tuned, and therefore your gearing is different. You ridicule comments by @Gixer1460, @coombehouseand @Dezzawhen they correctly point out that your reasoning is wrong. If your engine makes 40 hp or 240 hp, the revs at 80 mph (or any speed) are the same (everything else the same). The power doesn't change the revs at a set speed, only how fast you get there! Please, stop ridiculing people who actually know better, calling them/us "The I know better lot", when you are the one who has misunderstood power vs gearing. It can happen to all of us, but sometimes you have to wake up and learn. Merry Christmas
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I need several of them, and couldn't imagine they'd be impossible to find anywhere.
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Bumping this thread. I have searched everyhere, but I can't find a drive chain slider/guide for a 750 slabby. Item no. 61273-27A00. Any suggestions on where I may find it? What do you guys use when the original guide is worn down? Any help would be appreciated.
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If you're referring to various sites' microfishes etc, where the G cams might have the same item no.s as F cams, it says nothing about the original specs/item no.s. Most are superseeded and streamlined and refers to only one spare part no. Since the G sold little, it most likely refers to the F cams for spares, which could fool people into thinking they were the same originally.