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no class

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Posts posted by no class

  1. 16 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:

    Looking for the two short plastic trims that fit the ET/EX frame below the seat, and between the seat cowl and side panels. I have a pair, but they're suffering from the usual busted lugs! There was someone on here saying there was a company that makes them, and the quality/fit was excellent! Anyone shed some light?

    You can still get them from Suzuki....price was ok too .

  2. cheap fix........measure a few flat washers so they are all the same thickness......if it only just touches as you say....you should get away with .060" - .080" thou (roughly the thickness of a m10 washer)......throw 1 washer on each bolt in between the sprocket / carrier .

    • Like 1
  3. On 4/6/2017 at 8:36 PM, badger said:

    Ok, dumb questions but I can't really find a definitive answer. Wanna space out my chain from the tyre, Sorting an offset front sprocket is all easy peasy but an offset rear (calm your self) is fucking impossible. Do I only need to offset the front? Am I being stupid? Can dogs look up? Any pointers would be mucho helpfully

    what bike ? wide wheel conversion ? 

  4. A drill press is used for honing the intake boots . Set the depth to the edge of the inner rib . Plunge in drum sander and with your free hand .... make circular motions until the desired dimension is achieved . Complete all 4 intakes . Second procedure is the inner rib .....  since the drum sander I used was 41 odd mm......a quick plunge was enough 

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    • Like 6
  5. .....who's running an inter-cooler ?  vertical flow   vs   horizontal flow ...... let's see em' .  I myself plan on using one and will be going with Bell.....although the space up front of a bike is limited (oil cooler ). was wondering if anyone has a preference ?  

  6. 5 hours ago, bluedog59 said:

    They're actually ear defenders and, if you'd ever been in Le Mans campsite on a Saturday night, you'd know why.  

    Been to Loudon , New Hampshire USA every year ....back when it rocked hard.....campsite at the track ( The Zoo) ....and countless other biker bashes......seen security roaming the site get their truck rolled and set on fire.....Hells Angels would set off dynamite hourly ...like clockwork... 24 hour mayhem of rev limiters and burn outs......yup.....I think I know .....participated for 30 years of my life 

  7. 26 minutes ago, Oilyspanner said:

    The 1100 M/N and B12 have the wider bearing and longer output shaft, I haven't heard one is stronger than the other though ? didn't know the spacers were different..

     I have been reading some crap posted on the net about the b12 output shaft bearing failures....on lowish km motors..... now..... my gsxr's from days gone by (L , M , N ) all had above 35-45 k on the exception of the L model ..... never had or heard of a bearing failure..... second gear yes...... bearing no . I just can't remember if the 91-92 bearing had double row bb's.   The bandits have 1

  8. can someone confirm if the 91-92 gsxr 1100 output (drive) shaft has a double row bearing ?   I need to swap out the shaft and bearing on my gen 1 bandit 12 motor.....part numbers are the same for the shafts and bearings....the spacers are different ....19mm gsf....18.1 gsxr.....I seem to recal reading about the gsxr bearing being a stronger upgrade for the bandit one.....but then again I may have been on the juice that night .

    • Like 1
  9. 34 minutes ago, Diebythereaper said:

    Great info there MeanBean, can I just add my experience -Garrett - first plain bearing T3/T4, great little turbo and loads of torque and had an internal wastegate that was hard to tune with so I jumped to a Gt2860rs (disco potato) - fabulous sound from the ball bearing and spooled really fast, fitted an external wastgate and havent looked back since - 288bhp and I cant remember the torque but anything over 220bhp is not needed for the road imo, you cant use it

    I guess that draw through system you were running way back when is no comparison lol ,,,,how you been ?  

  10. On 2017-02-16 at 6:10 AM, MeanBean49 said:

    I had an imprezza TD04 to start with on 1216 with busa pistons Was a good turbo for the road, limit of around 250bhp before it was struggling. Nice and useable and picked up from around 3000rpm.

    Got a IHI VF23 off an imprezza now. What a difference, spools up from same low rpm, but does it much quicker. Makes 200ft lbs of torque at 6k and 280bhp at 15psi without the bike breaking a sweat. Goint to push it a bit harder this year now ive got a stronger motor, dont think im going to struggle to get 300+ bhp. I use the bike on road and track, power delivery is really smooth

    Good thing about the subaru turbos is they are dead easy to swap one for another

    Very impressive .... do you have any dyno graphs from your set-up ?  Timing / fueling info ? I am sure quite a few gents on here ( myself invluded) could use the info as a guide ......

  11. They are physically beefier compared to gsf...can't confirm if they are stronger . Gen 1 busa are 119mm length to gsf 117mm .... small/ big ends identical.....longer rods do not increase stroke .... they decrease piston speed. Will work on gsf for turbo use and will require a base spacer if used as a complete assembly ......setting a .040" squish is a good goal .

    • Like 1
  12. why RS 38's ???  had these in the past and hated them .....crappy slide design and always seem run on after you shut the throttle down....pain in the ass to tune also . If you can afford a few extra dollars .....TMR's are awesome .....as well as the Keihin FCR's.

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