Jpich85

Thanks mate, I know I'm a bit worried coz it is a bodge and I don't really like doing work like that but if I use it until a get a new wheel hopefully it'll be ok, I get a bit depressed when the bikes off the road

Thanks guys, busa did you center pop all around the bearing housing or just a few here and there, I've got some bearing retainer coming so I might try busas idea with the loctite, it's a shame coz I've just had it powder coated and decaled up lol

Thanks mate I'll give that a try, Has anyone used that bearing retainer loctite stuff, not sure if I should use that for now?

After changing the bearings on the front wheel one of the bearing housings seem to be too large to press fit the bearing in :-(, I think I'm going to need a new front wheel but wanted to ask where would be the best place to buy one as there's not much on Eblag atm. Cheers

That's what the hayabusa one is made from aluminum, do you think I should make it from something else like stainless?

Thanks mate I'll get that sorted, I'll make it a little longer then, if the tube is longer tho one bearing won't sit completely in the bearing recess would it? Like when you fit a bearing and you get that sound when you know it's sat fully in the recess flush? I see how this tube works now tho and it makes sense, I think the front was similar... loads of slack in the spacer

Thanks guys after looking at it I see that it seems to of been filed? I've measured down to the bearing from the seat of the opposite bearing and it's 121mm would you say the spacer needs to be that exact length of a little bigger? I can make one on the lathe as it seems a simple spacer to make up.

I think so, it's the standard tube that came with the wheel, is it better to have it longer or shorter? Cheers

I know this might not be the right area to post this. I wanted to know if anyone knew the torque setting for a hayabusa rear axel nut? I have a hayabusa swingarm and I set it to 100nm but after 80 miles the bearing seized up so I don't think that was the correct setting. Any help would be great cheers

I've finally got my bike on the road and after 2 days the clutch went lol so I'm changing my clutch on my gsxr 750 wn it's got an rf900r engine in it and after stripping it down I noticed a few things that I wasn't sure needed replacing, I've bought an ebc srk kit for it with the friction plates, steel plates and diagram springs. The pressure plate that you remove that sort of holds all the plates in and is held in with that big 50mm nut has some scoring marks on it and I wanted to know if this needs replacing or is that normal due to normal wear? Also is says when changing the diaphragm spring that I need to replace a anti skip ring or something? Does anyone know what this is? Cheers

Thanks mate, I appreciate your help, would a gel type battery be a straight swap or would I need to upgrade anything?

Ok thanks mate, what's the difference in the 9ah and 12ah versions?

Are gel batteries any better, would it be on to use one on the gsxr 750 wn?

Thanks for your help everyone, I didn't jump start it in the end, I thought it wasn't actually going to fix anything, I did a few tests tho, I charged it and was getting 12.7 volts from the battery, I connected it and switched the lights on and it help 11.5v ok but then when I tried to start it nothing, it was just dead and the volts went down to 6v, I think I should change the battery first but I thought it might be the charger as it's quite old and not sure if it's any good any more, my dad said it didn't do much to his battery that he was trying to bring back to life after awhile being flat

Sorry it's a gsxr 750 wn mate

Could it be the regulator/rectifier? I've read online that the might have the same effect but I'm not sure where they are on the bike and they seem pricey

Thanks for getting back to me guys, the battery is only about a year old and the bike isn't on the road yet it's just sat in the garage and I start it up a few times a week so I have to charge it now and then but this time the battery just seems dead after one or two turns, I haven't checked the voltage on start up but I will try, I don't have another battery unfortunately but my dad said he could try jump starting me but I don't think that'll do much to fix the problem, I think they tested it with a tester of some sort, my dad took it there so didn't see what they did. Could the cold be affecting this? I've got the battery in the house now just to see if improving the temperature might help

I've been having issues getting my bike going, I've been working on a rad cover the past few weeks so I thought I'd start the bike as it's been a few days since I started it, I found that the battery seemed flat so I charged it overnight and tried again but it was still the same... seemed dead. I had the battery checked at a garage and they said it was fine, it's reading 12.8v after I charge it but when it fit it to the bike and give it a start it's showing 6v on the speedo. ive tried charging it a few times now and not sure what's up with it, maybe the cold weather is affecting the battery or there may be an electronic problem which I'm hoping there isn't. Just wondered if anyone may have had this issue before? Cheers

Been a bit quite on the bike lately with working on the house but was looking into tidying up a few bits on it and was wondering if anyone knew if they did a rad cover or shroud for the gsxr 750 wn? I thought about making my own which I might try if I have no luck finding one. Cheers

I have noticed that I can strip the bike pretty quickly now as in the swingarm, front end, carbs but I'm dreading a time I might have to remove the engine lol. I have build thread in the project area under... This is my build.

Nearly mate, I have a few things waiting from the powder coating and id like to put a yoshi can on there but other than that it'll be ready from an mot then, it's my first bike so I'm saving up for all the gear too atm but luckily Christmas is coming up so I should get a nice helmet and boots, then the rest to follow. I'll be going steady on it tho, don't want to tip it over waiting at the lights or something lol

I did take another look at the hub on Sunday and after stripping it and refitting it, it seemed to off solved the problem thanks everyone, I think it may of been a combination of things, maybe chain slack torque on the rear axle bolt and tight rubbers but luckily it's going a lot smother now. The builds coming to an end and I'm finding myself getting bored without bike bits to worry about or work on now. I do love my smart phone as I can order parts for the bike when I'm out and about and do research while I'm stuck at the shops with the Mrs lol but they can be a bit much sometimes

I'm glad this weird phenomenon has been explained, I thought it was dodgy that it came out differently once I posted the reply but I did find that with the word Eblag lol, sorry for any confusion, this is a great site and whenever I've got a problem I always think of this place first, it's also nice to pass on any help I can too.

say what now!? I honestly didn't spell anything offencive towards anyone, I wouldn't do that, I was great full for your advice especially because it was a good fault finding tip, I swiped... "That's a great idea too say what now!?" but it must of spelt something else and I didn't realise, my phone does that a lot lol.

Lol sorry mate that must of been a spelling error on my phone because I use the swipe on my Samsung, I do really appreciate any help off anyone and there's been some good tips that I'll give a try on the wknd.