spondonturbo
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Posts posted by spondonturbo
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On 2/20/2019 at 12:21 PM, caferacerdan said:
Been stood a while so new oil, plugs, fork seals and a carb clean
Fit some flat bars as I'm not suited to clip ons!
Then ride as is for rest of year while I finish my other projects!
Then possibly off to Dave Dunlop for a turbo setup
best start saving up now if you are going the turbo route on an aircooled motor
Definitely the right plan though 
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third option should be banned only cheaters go that route haha
maybe see what other efes are running in the bracket you are looking at. option 1 and 2 are both going to be very expensive so lots of research to try and get it right first time. If it was just the most powerful then obviously turbo will win but that is not what you are looking for here
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5 hours ago, clivegto said:
Yes, not to trickery use front engine mount on engine & frame make the back ones up to suit.
@clivegtowould it go any further back if needed? or would it foul something?
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Have you managed to get the engine in the frame as yet? I am trying to decide whether to put an aircooled motor in my mag 2 frame or a B12 motor so ws wondering how easy or not it is / was?
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Don't know about comprehensive ist bt common front end in kats seems to be either bandit 12 for rwu and GSXR1100 L or M for USD. Back end again seems to be bandit 12 with shock mounts weleded on or slingshot arm with mounts welded on. These are the common ones as I guess they are straightforward
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5 hours ago, busa ash said:
Nice too see you rebuilding your baby Chris
gone to the back of the queue again Ash as need to get the efe finished
Still not got the dymags away for crack testing yet
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if you can just get it finished for when I call for my efe tank, and leave the keys in, that would be great
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FCUK
in Trick Frames
4 hours ago, jb said:Cheers dezza....yes I still have the Spondon discs although they are zxr fitment, same as some marvic wheels I have too (very slightly different bolt pcd to slingshot but same overall diameter)
It was me that @Dezzawas talking about. Been looking for a while as my front wheel on my spondon is on a standard slingshot wheel and discs. The oly standard bits on the bike ! Have been looking for discs and a marvic 3 spoke for a while. Let me know if you decide to sell. Cheers to @Dezzafor the heads up
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Never knew that about 750 gears. I use after market straight cuts. Oil pump gears will be getting changed for 750 gears for sure.
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think I will play it safe as the crank will have to be stripped and welded anyway so may as well get the gear done
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11 hours ago, johnr said:
pip higham once told me that gs750 motors run straight cut primary gears and they are good for about 190bhp. ive a crank with a straight primary gear but no clutch gear to match it if you need one chris.
what is your crank out of John?
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I do normally use them but was told recently that even some motors up at 250 - 300 hp run helical gears. I agree that it is the side load that is the issue. Another idea suggested to me was helicals but strengthen the back of the clutch.
With regard to hp I would hope to see 250 maybe on an old aircooled motor with turbo.
I ask because I am at the point of needing to get the crank done so need to decide whether to spend £400 plus on straight cut gears. Decisions, decisions.....
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So do you really need straight cut gears on an aircooled turbo motor that is mainly for street use with some occasional RWYB drag meets? They are a lot of money and someone who does a lot of turbo stuff recently said they were not necessary unless properly drag racing.
Opinions?
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Thanks Dupersunc
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which ignitech unit would be the equivalent of a dyna 2000?. Dyna 2000 are roughly £360,how much are the ignitech in comparison?
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I see the new team hats are go!
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them rearsets look just what I need. Not many I have seen have the two fixing holes so staggered. Works well with the kat frame and should with an ef frame. What do you think they are from? Cracking bike BTW
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Elite engineering in Aintree. They advertise in classic mags. Had other stuff done in black in the past but never used them for colours before. Looks good.Time will tell how well it is stuck on haha
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Candy Red. Silver base, then Red Candy translucent then laquer. Looks good for powdercoat. Was an absolute git to do. Struggled to find a company that I could beconfident with chemically stripping the Nickel, so this company said they could very lightly blast the nickel to get a key. The problem was the Nickel plating was not a very good job as it varied a lot in thickness. It was very thin in places and "puckered" up with a light blast. Then it was either keep looking for a chemical strip or let the guy spend hours abrading the Nickel down as much as possible. We agreed on the second option and he ended up removing most of the Nickel. It took a few goes at coating to get it right, but was worth all the effort in my opinion.
Now I need to get the dyags crack tested and refurbed so I can start putting a roller together. longlist of other stuff to do, but one step at a time!
Pretty much decided on going back to original race paint scheme with all period parts
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That's better !
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picked frame up today. Still wrapped but here is a sneak preview ! Was a real pain in the ass to do because of the Nickel plating but the guy has come through with a nice job. Well pleased
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that seat will also never see the light of day
I hear what you are saying @Dezzait is a worry with traffic how it is now. Not decided yet. Would prob run a very basic loom with dyna s or even constant loss of going race bike look.
Should be loud as will be an open pipe
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so whatever its called...I'll get me popcorn......it is possible. Sounds like a plan. Who needs lights anyway
Harris Magnum 2 build
in Trick Frames
Posted
Hi Dan, yes you are right. I have dropped a 750m front end in mine. Only had to buy the correct head bearings and it went in ok.