El Gringo

Quick update, head gasket replaced, bores honed, still won't f**king start I'm now considering fire........

Me too Viz, hopefully it won't take too long to get it back in one piece and running again A couple of piccys The bores are really shiny too which won't help, so i'll be giving them a bit of a hone before it goes back together Also got the set of machined pistons to go in, so they might as well go in now too

Culprit found! Head gasket is fubar, coolant in cylinders 2 and 3 New one will be on it's was asap Compression was down to 105psi on those 2 cylinder - should be up in the 180-190 range Did seem odd that the only thing i'd done was add coolant before it stopped starting

Slight set back, Can't get the flippin' thing started again now. Just refusing to fire up. GSXR4s are notorious for being poor starters, i'm wondering if having the floats lowered by 2mm and ignition retarded by 2.5 degrees isn't really helping. I might try it all back stock with the turbo air side disconnected. Mixture screws are set at 3 turns out, and i tried them at 5 last night to compensate for the low floats but it didn;t seem to make any difference

A celebratory beverage - Its a runner! It's rough but it's a runner! Will only run with the pitot tube disconnected but i presume that's because its not running with the fuel pump at present Didn't run it too long as it's got no water in it at present - waiting on a new fan switch and temp sender

Thanks guys! Will see how i get on In other news I've now got a spark! Not a great one but a spark none the less

Morning All, Happy New Year an' all that. Been making slow progress with the wiring, nearly there now though, which means it's time to stick some fuel in it and see what happens. Quick question. I was going to try the fuel pressure at 2psi, same as Robs. I'm presuming there isn't an easy way of knowing how much to tweak the spring by? I was going to get a fuel pressure gauge for set up porpoises, can i get away with just sticking it on the end of the hose that goes to the carbs, so the fuel is dead heading against it? So i can set the pressure and then reconnect the hose to the carb inlet? There's about 8-10" of wiring to come out of the middle of the loom Also got the fuel and oil pump switches in, along with the boost gauge and idiot lights

Pretty sure it's got a built in protection circuit, and has a test light on it to show battery charge level. JMT are now OEM fitment on Husquvarnas and Husabergs i think

I've just bought a JMT for my 400, a veritable bargain!

Cheers Arttu, I've seen some really close to the turbine exit, might just try it and see what happens. Won't be for a bit though - it'll probably cost twice what i paid for the bike in the first place! Have made a start on the wiring - wish me luck

Hi All Bit of an update Plenum is now all welded and I think everything is pretty much connected. Have been working on a couple of clock brackets, one on the front of the top yoke for the boost gauge and a.n.other 2" gauge, and one just infront of the tank for the speedo/rev counter. Also got the up pipe clamped properly and added the expansion bottle Have made a start on the loom and placement for the battery For the other gauge i've been looking at the AEM/Innovate combined AFR/Boost gauge but according to the destructions i haven't got enough exhaust length for the lambda sesnor to work properly. Anyone got any experience with these? Cheers

Thanks Rob, The small connections behind the fuel inlets are definitely the float bowl vents though, these are the ones that need the dynamic reference from the up pipe if i've read it right. Might try it with the big ones blanked off to start with - or at least investigate where they lead to - they don't go to the float bowls, i know that much I think they are like the 40mm carbs *Just looked at a couple of different pictures, the 2 big ones need to be connected to the plenum

I got the pressuring bit from here http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/396 & http://www.turbo-bike.com/Pressurize Carburetor R1.html It'd be properly handy if i can just blank them off!

Thanks Rob, I've got the pitot tube made but i though that went to the float bowl vents? I've got 2 extra take offs that seem to run under the diaphragms Can probably see it best here Fuel in at the front, Float Bowl vent behind it and then the Big one on top - same on both sides between each pair 1&2 and 3&4 In the modifying CV carbs guide i took it that these big ones had to see boost reference from the plenum?

Might as well stick a few more pictures up, doesn't appear to be much further ahead but i've done a few bits Got the plenum back from the first round of welding and finished up the angles cuts at the bottom and blended it to the frame shape And made the plates for the lower edges - still working on the end caps Once that's done that'll be off for final welding Got the fuel block finished and tidied up FPR is mounted and the fuel hoses are run Scavenge pump is mounted And the return to the clutch cover is done Radiator is fully mounted now too and all the hoses are joined up Last issue are the 2 big under diaphragm ports that need to see boost pressure according to the guide on here, haven't left enough height on the plenum to add any stubs! Anyway, we're getting there now - plan is to have all the major fuel/oil/air systems finished by Christmas Then on to the wiring

Thanks guys, I realise that each one will give both ways once it's under boost, just wasn't sure if it was ok to do them all off t he same point. I can see how it could be affected by having them linked. I guess it doesn't hurt having the FPR on vacuum as it shuts the pressure down quicker (I'm sure you mentioned that before) Carb tops it is then! Might have it running soon Ta

Hi All Made a bit of progress but not much, plenum is away having the first round of welding done. Quick question regarding Boost/Vacuum take off points. FPR needs to see boost pressure and has been suggested that it will also work better if it sees vacuum as well (Don't start arguing again!) BOV needs to see a vacuum The boost gauge i've bought will also show vacuum if connected to a vacuum source (I know it's not strictly necessary but it's there). I have 1 take off point on the inlet rubbers that was for the vacuum tap on the standard tap - there are also the 4 vacuum take off points on the carb tops. My question is, can I/ should I tee all 3 things from the 1 "big" take off on the inlet rubber? As in, the main thing that needs a vacuum is the BOV, the other 2 won't hurt if they see vacuum. Conversely the only thing that doesn't need to see boost is the BOV but the other 2 definitely do. Are the carb top takeoffs suitable for taking a vacuum signal from? It just means i only need to add 1 boost take off from my plenum to run to the WG actuator when i add an inline boost controller to start turning the wick up a bit Any and all suggestion appreciated Ta Chris

If I could jump in on this thread too please, What PSI rating are people using on the facet pumps? Looks like Bruteforce is using the 7-10 psi one from the part number but could you use a lower 4-6psi one? Cheers

Thanks guys Got the fuel pump mounted. Been thinking about the oil return, think i'm going for -10 hose with a scavenge pump. Was initial going to feed it back in at the timing plug as mentioned above but having measured it i think it'll stick out too far. So plan B is to add a threaded fitting here in the crankcases (where the round mount is) Only issue i can see is that it would feed in directly above the back of the clutch basket which would fling the oil everywhere, which i'm guessing isn't ideal - so i could put the oil back in through the filler hole out of the way of the clutch and use the other point as a crankcase breather Any thoughts? Cheers Chris

Top Job Boss!!

Done a bit more Made a start on the plenum, not quite sure how it's going to fit with the silicones in place but we'll overcome that one when we get to it Found a location for the fuel pump, it's a bit long to fit where i wanted to put it under the back of the tank so it's going on the shock mount, should be able to keep the hoses neat and run them up inside the frame uprights. Just need to take the shock etc out to drill the mounting block for the clips. Back to the hose sizing dilema, the Garratt website states a non restricted -4 oil feed and a -10 drain. Just wondering what people were using on the drain side, and how they're mating the big ID hose to the Facet type pumps, stepped down fittings? Also what PSI rating would be suitable, i was thinking either the 4-6psi one or maybe the 7-10psi I was thinking of using one of the big 12V mechanical geared scavenge pumps but it's pretty big to "lose" on such a small bike and seems a bit overkill if a 12V facet one will do the job.

Thanks Scara, good info. I'm hoping it's going to be relatively straight forward. I've also been offered a set of machined standard pistons that give 9.5:1 compression and an ignition cover with adjustable timing pick up and oil feed for the turbo which is awesome as i was strugggling to work out how i was going to do it.

Cheers boss, Fightered but clipons rather than flats,a) the pipework and new rad wouldn't fit inside a fairing and b) it didn't come with one and i'm trying to keep the costs to a bare minimum. Air filter has arrived, pipes should be welded early next week but the guy who does my turning is away on holiday so i'm a bit stuck on the plenum till he's back.

Spose i better update this Headers and exhaust are away being welded this week, i don't trust myself to do them, my welding goes as far as tacking and non structural sticking together Also have the up pipe silicones and tubes ready to go, just waiting on a sheet of ally to start on the plenum. Have been thinking about the oil feed and return again, from the posts above, bearing in mind its a journal bearing i was wondering if -4 is too big, the fitting on the turbo is a 4.3mm hole, if i've got it right -3 is 3.6mm ID and -4 is 6mm ish? On the drain i think i can get a -10 fitting on there and was going to look at the 12V Facet type scavenge pumps. My question on that is wheres best to return it to? I was going to use the oil filler as a breather which doesn't leave many options for existing inlet points. Was wondering if i could modify the timing plug on the front of the clutch cover and put it back in there, it's above the oil level and i'm hoping the pump would have enough lift to get the oil in there, it's probably 3-4" maximum between the drain outlet and the timing plug. Or......... I've seen quite a few pics of turbos recently with the drain feeding into the sump below the oil level, i presume this would require a check valve and a pump with enough pressure to over come the oil in the sump? Anyway, few piccies Cheers in advance Chris

Thanks guys, it's ticking along nicely now I'm pretty sure the standard cooler will work now, got a bigger rad coming too which should help. There's plenty of space under the back to run a cooler like a plate hanger - i seem to remember a bike ages ago that had a rear cooler painted up as the plate, i think it was Schaeff's yellow one? Any who, the engine end stubs for the headers are done so should be able to get them fully mocked up this weekend.