El Gringo

Right then, hello all, long time no speak I did eventually get this comedy item to boost sort of, still requires a bit of fettling to get it running properly but i've not quite got round to it because I've started another one.................. Basically the same as the first one but a Bandit 4 rather than a GSXR 4

Right, ball park it is then

Ta boss, this would be a set of stock Yamaha pistons going into Suzuki barrels requiring a rebore, so I guess go with the figure in the Yamaha manual. It's a 59mm bore so a ring gap of 0.004 to 0.005 * 2.3" = 0.0092 or 0.0115 , gives 0.92 to 11.5 thou or 0.23/0.29mm Does that sound about right?

Hi all Long time no speak! Hope everyone is well Quick question, is there a genereal rule of thumb for piston to bore clearance for a turbo bike? I did have a search back and found a thread that suggested 0.004-0.005 per Inch of bore

*Ignore me, missed the first few seconds of the video It may be feeding back through the dash light, If i remember the way Suzuki earth the dash light through the opposite side indicator to the one that's on. You may find if you run both wires that run to the dash bulb to one side of it and earth the other into the earth loop in the loom it it might stop doing it

I think they're 32mm, Original off a GPX600 so Keihin CVKs but as you say near as dammit Same as mk1 Blandit 6 i think, the B6 slide that I bought fitted anyway

I'm trying, I promise! I'm just in the process of respacing a set of Blandit6 carbs to give me another option - they've got the more traditional inlet port that goes under the diaphragm which takes the guess work out of the drilled holes on the original carbs Got to love a sketchy pillar drill, cross vice, hole saw set up

Thought i'd better update this - still doesn't work Going to make a concerted effort over the winter to make it work Now got a fancy AFR gauge and fancy boost gauge hooked up to a data logger so hopefully i'll be able to see which direction it's going in Have now put fresh coils, leads and caps on it, along with a new CDI which should rule out anything electrical It also starts a hell of a lot better now

I know better than to ask questions like that! Yup, 94 GK76a Frame and Engine, the rest of it is a mismatch bitsa of stuff i had kicking about

Thanks boss, it's getting there, I got it to rev to about 7K before the stuttering so i've made a few tweaks to the jetting and float bowl compensation hoses but haven't had chance to test it properly yet It was approx 158kg with oil but no fuel using the everso reliable bathroom scales and block of wood technique

Still messing about with the 400, still doesn't run right

Jesus! Thread from the Dead. Erm dunno, but it's sorted the shit running every time i've swapped it. Good news is the Husquvarna one for £17 worked a treat Also had one fail on my Bandit 4 and on my NC23 a while ago TBH it's still on the naughty step, i'm building something else that can't be mentioned on here so i'm aiming to get back on it in the summer It was running really well apart from the not transitioning to boost still. I've got a set of Bandit 4 carbs to try as an alternative. I'm also thinking about going back to renthals as just thinking about sitting on it sends my back into spasm

It's not, the sandwich plate was an extra for my oil cooler, which necessitated the shorter filter to fit behind the turbo ^This is what i mean't

I'm pretty sure from my research that there isn't a shorter filter with an M20x1.0 thread. I ended up using a sandwich plate as a take off (for an oil cooler) and modifying the adapter stub female end to fit the M20x1.0 bit sticking out of the engine whilst being M20 x 1.5 on the male end which allowed me to fit a 600 Fazer filter which is a fair bit shorter You could probably get a new engine stub made with an M20x1.5 thread and just use the fazer filter There's some info in my thread here -> *** Main info is on page 1

Gahhh once again the devil sneezes in my cornflakes! I think the pulse coil has gone tits up again, it was a right bastard to start again and won't rev up, exactly like it was 18 months ago! However this time i've got a pretty good idea that it's the pulse coil - i checked the resistance and it's in spec but...... the one it stripped off my bandit 4 last week was also well in spec and that was fucked - it was sparking once and then not again. I think it's starting to break down, so it'll cope at tick over but as the crank spins faster the sensor can't keep up with it I think i've found one at Electrex World that will work, the dimensions are everso slightly different but it's the correct resistance and looks virtually identical to the standard one. I only mention this as a new genuine signal generator from Suzuki is a 135 fucking quid!