jameskat
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Posts posted by jameskat
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The oil gallery plug below the ignition pickup is M16 x 1.5, some people use -03AN (Same as brake hose) and associated fittings to supply the turbo. Measure the amount of oil flowing through the turbo with the engine running and make sure it is within the specs of the turbo. Restrict the supply if flowing too much, oil return should be unrestricted and in a large bore hose or to a catch can and pumped away.
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That picture is for a gsx1100 not a gsxr. Oil to the head for the cams is restricted so normal the takeoff for turbos comes from the bottom main bearings gallery below the ignition pickup cover.
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I think the holes are for weight saving (every little helps), the starter motor location, sprocket area and front mounting bolt area drilled are fairly low stress areas.
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I am sure someone with a lathe will be able to skim 5mm off the diameter, dependant on the where the ventilation holes are and if the pad height will still be on the main part of the disc. Sometimes looking through the spare parts catalogue (EBC etc) will show a disc from another model with the required OD and stud pattern.
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Bandit 1200 have a throttle position sensor (TPS) and so have a slightly variable advance curve, but they can run without the TPS plugged in.
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As long as notches in the cams face each other when the number 1 on the exhaust camshaft faces the cover gasket surface then all is good, every other crank rotation will put the marks out by 180 degrees.
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I take it you have checked valve timing and clearances after refitting the head.
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Try WD40, swap spark plugs around (some dodgy plugs about) at the same time have a look at colour of the plugs and if they are wet.
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Try the WD40, see if it is ignition or fuel. When you say the bike was making a right noise, what do you mean?
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Methyl Ethyl Ketone, melts ABS, I think that is what Leblowski is on about.
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Yes, original airbox rubbers.
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Ramair MS-006 are what I use on my 36mm CV's.
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The bandit 12 has a double row output bearing, so it would be the hardest of the options, never done it. As far as I know the output shaft for the double row bearings are longer than the ones with the single output bearings.
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It looks like there is a side stand relay which could be your problem, but without more info on your bike I can't be sure I am looking at the right diagram.
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On 3/17/2016 at 6:16 PM, kja.busa said:
Sperbike Mike used to sell a big block for the water cooled 1100, should be some photo's around the tinternet, might be worth a bit of research
One on Eblag at the moment, fair chunk of change though.
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Normally the return line is the center one, which i can see, but it may not be, won't be the first time I am wrong.
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Forgive my ignorance but where is the fuel in line? If it has run well with that fuel regulator I would stick with it, fuel regulators like that are simple and fairly reliable.
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Removed as much of the white sealant from the back and then used a piece of acetal, as it was about the right size, and a hammer and then knocked it out from the outside. I thought I was being a bit ham-fisted about it, but it worked for me so no guarantees.
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The books say charge cooling reduces the chances of detonation, which apparently is the main cause of engine failures, so all good as far as i know. I will find out when i finally finish my engine.
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Gen 1 Busa pistons, gen 1 Busa rods and a spacer plate to make the squish right and still lower compression.
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Roger Upperton is my usual font of knowledge, if he cant do it he will know who can and I find him fairly priced and his work is excellent.
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Counter clockwise (out) is softer, they should click, standard setting is 7 clicks out form fully turned in, I do not a clue how to service them.
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They wont change any measurements, just how easily the forks are compressed.
GSXR 750 M manual
in Oil Cooled
Posted · Edited by jameskat
Grammer
Haynes if it is any help http://www.spartgsxrspecials.com/PDF/Suzuki_GSX-R750_1100_'85-92_GSX600F_750F_1100F_Katana_'87-93_Service_Repair_Manual.pdf