bernardo
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Posts posted by bernardo
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I ran my fork tops 10mm above the top yoke for racing and have them at 5mm now. Seems OK to me. The clip-ons mount flush with the bottom of the top yoke in standard position. Not at home for a few weeks so I can't post a pic
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Water in tank? Happened to me
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thanks for the info, just what I needed to know. I've been following the build for a while so its looking good. Kind of regret swoping my VJ21 for a full yosh ti system for my race bike.
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Yeah Maplin are doing one for £89 not sure of the size I need though
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slightly off topic but what model and where did you get your ultrasonic cleaner. I need to buy one
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I kind of like it, some of the cafe racer things out there are vile
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So true. I have a project thats stalled for the last few months, I want to finish that before I attack the slabbie
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I really need to start the rebuild of mine. Posts like this make me feel guilty
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Sell the Kwak and buy the two slabbys.You know it makes sense
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Well now, I did everything people suggested and nothing worked. I tried it again this weekend. Reved the nuts off it and banged it into gear..stayed running, tried 2nd stayed running. So I'm not saying it's cured, just it's stopped acting up. A good lesson in the power of perseverance.
Big thanks for all your help.
Bernard
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well I repaired my slabby panels with cable ties and a soldering iron and paperclips as reinforcement . worked fine for me. I even used a plastic chocolate box as raw material to make lugs and repair patches where bits had broken off.
Doesn't work on fiberglass. I just followed delboy's (probably not the same one) method on yuotube
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The thing is running but the battery has had a good charge, but again as soon as you engage gear (1st or 2nd) it cuts out. I remember the side stand switch was removed when i took it racing and I found where I think my mate shorted the circuit at the time. Joint looks perfect.
I thought all the clutch switch did was stop you starting in gear.
It really feels like a sidestand switch the ignition is cut so sharply.
Is there anything else it could be?
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Thanks guys, God I hate electrics
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First of all many thanks to all who gave tips on how to get started a few weeks ago. Well i finally got round to starting it up and it ran fine.
However when you select gear it cuts out. I suspect the side stand switch even though it doesn't seem to matter if its up or down. So how do I bypass the switch?
Also it doesn't want to start unless the battery is really fully charged so maybe there's a bad earth? It won't start if the battery is even slightly discharged. Where do I start looking? I'm electrically inept but do possess a multimeter.
thanks
Bernard
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Ffs
in Oil Cooled
Could be worse I found one welded on, Ruined the threads on the shaft as well
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I have my 750 since Christmas 89 it's an F on a C plate. It's done a lot of miles and is very tired now. My next project is a ground up rebuild. I was tempted to drop in an 11 or 12. But I think I'll rebuild the motor, could be the expensive option.
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Same as Swiss Toni, I have an 85F Uk model . flat tank
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I'm not a fan of zimmer frames. The NRCs on my SRAD look like castings from the originals but very thick . Match up for the internals like the starter motor pin is quite poor. Must be someone out there who could use your originals to make a mold from and do some casting
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The other option would be to fit NRC type engine cases. they're pretty indestructible
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Looking good. But if you plan on using it for track days, i'd have a word with your tuner to see if you need some avgas to mix with your petrol.
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It was fine before storage and was even running (A bit lumpy) before I did the oil change. The fuel pump is whining/priming so I think it's ok. I live in the middle of nowhere so I won't have the plugs until next week. I'll have to wait until then
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Tanks guys, I did try easy start, but that didn't work, I'll pull the carbs off again and double the cold start drillings. I checked the wiring but didn't see anything loose. I cleaned the plugs, but they're fairly old so I'll stick a new set in. Has to be something simple.
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My SRAD 750 has stood for a good few years but has been started on a regular basis. I want to use it again so I changed the oil and coolant after which it wouldn't fire up at all.
I've dumped the orange muck that was masquerading as petrol and gave the carbs a clean. Cleaned the plugs still won't fire.
I have a weak spark on No. 3 (alright the frame isn't a good earth) but none on the others. Also the plugs are dry even though I poured petrol directly into the carb mouths. And there's no sign of Flooding even though I've been turning her over for a while.
I'm baffled, no spark and no fuel, but there is compression as I tried to bump start it.
Any suggestions?
Bernard
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EBCs are better but don't last as long. I'd go with the EBCs
Srad top yoke/fork......
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
Posted
Yes but I found the handling much improved by dropping them. Each to their own I suppose