Guest Posted May 27 Posted May 27 (edited) Hi all. I have a horrible feeling I need to change my camchain guides. Is it possible to do it with out having to split the cylinder head and barrels. Last time I had to replace the head gasket was a total nightmare due to having wrong o'rings ( it turned out to be an issue with the gasket sets. Yes plural ). Ive took a pic of my chain. It looks like it's rubbing on something I know I've got to drop the crank out to do the adjuster guide. Thanks in advance Edited June 17 by lowriderade Added some words Quote
Duckndive Posted May 27 Posted May 27 The Rear Blade on the tensioner wears more than the others and you need to remove head and block to replace it If you have a manual tensioner fitted it may be too tight accelerating the wear Quote
Guest Posted May 27 Posted May 27 3 minutes ago, Duckndive said: The Rear Blade on the tensioner wears more than the others and you need to remove head and block to replace it If you have a manual tensioner fitted it may be too tight accelerating the wear Got the standered auto tensioner. I did check the tension on the chain and it was slack. But after turning the engine over to do the tappets the chain was tight. Quote
Duckndive Posted May 27 Posted May 27 3 minutes ago, lowriderade said: Got the standered auto tensioner. I did check the tension on the chain and it was slack. But after turning the engine over to do the tappets the chain was tight. You could try removing and resetting it..... Quote
Guest Posted May 27 Posted May 27 8 minutes ago, Duckndive said: You could try removing and resetting it..... I couldn't get a tensioner spring so popped some washers on the shaft behind the spring a couple of weeks ago. I didn't want to try pushing it. I can't remember what the measurements were but I will re measure it with washers. I was going to try pushing the tensioner in one click but I don't fancy doing it Quote
Guest Posted May 27 Posted May 27 I turned the engine off the day before doing this clip. After this clip I turned the engine over by hand to do the tappets. I checked the chain and it was tight. Quote
bunk Posted May 27 Posted May 27 (edited) The front guide can be done after removing the cams. I can guarantee you that it makes contact with the chain 100% of the time, and makes a difference cam timing wise if its there versus not. Edited May 27 by bunk Quote
Guest Posted May 28 Posted May 28 15 hours ago, bunk said: The front guide can be done after removing the cams. I can guarantee you that it makes contact with the chain 100% of the time, and makes a difference cam timing wise if its there versus not. I did look at the front guide a few months ago and there was no sign of wear. Im defiantly going with the tensioner guide being worn. Quote
bunk Posted May 28 Posted May 28 56 minutes ago, lowriderade said: I did look at the front guide a few months ago and there was no sign of wear. Im defiantly going with the tensioner guide being worn. Well you'll find out on the way to total teardown Being there recently, thats a place i dont want to return to ! Quote
Guest Posted May 28 Posted May 28 1 hour ago, bunk said: Well you'll find out on the way to total teardown Being there recently, thats a place i dont want to return to ! Yep. Well I'm hoping i can pull the crank down enough to pull the guide out. I realy don't want to split the cylinder head from the barrels . In the meantime time I'm going to measure the tensioner spring and maybe push it in one click. I'm also looking at another gsxr11 project. Sadly I need to get my engine done as I don't want to miss any shows Quote
Guest Posted May 28 Posted May 28 Just measured the spring. But I can't seem to find what the length should be..it's not in the manual and I can't find it on the net. Would any of you guys/girls know at all? Quote
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