JLawson90 Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 what diameter are the mk1 bandit 1200 rear wheel spindles anyone? Quote Link to comment
JLawson90 Posted December 3, 2015 Author Share Posted December 3, 2015 cheers fatbloke! just preparing for the spacers to fit the rear wheel to the huc frame .. i've seen some people split in what material to use, some say since its just a spacer and no real force goes through it you can use alloy, some say it has to be steel Quote Link to comment
fatblokeonbandit Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 All the spacers on my Harris are made by me out of ally, wheels aint fell off yet Quote Link to comment
JLawson90 Posted December 3, 2015 Author Share Posted December 3, 2015 nice one bud good to know! Quote Link to comment
markfoggy Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Worth a few quid being chucked at a decent spec alloy, engineering cheese is available, but not suitable for this sort of application. Quote 7075 T6 at your local machinist and he'll probably have a lump knocking about. I bought a 600 mm length for this job off of Eblag for about £8 a month or so ago, can be bought cheaper, but I didn't want a 3m length.It'll anodise well if you want to stop the spacers turning furry overnight. Quote Link to comment
JLawson90 Posted December 3, 2015 Author Share Posted December 3, 2015 (edited) might just go with a good stainless to stop any errosion edit; on second thoughts, a chopper build could do with being made as light as possible haha, so i might make quite a few things out of ally instead of steel.. would this work?http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/1-5-38-1mm-Diameter-x-Various-Lengths-Aluminium-Round-Bar-Grade-7075-T6-/111752537426?var=&hash=item1a04f86552:m:mD1_02qjX-Sa9jwEYAOjgww Edited December 3, 2015 by JLawson90 Quote Link to comment
markfoggy Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Yup, that's the kiddie, shop around though, that's not cheap.7075 is a grade of alloy that you can't really weld, it's very strong in compression and quite hard. It cuts well for machining, it likes anodising. Very strong in most applications, but if you make handlebars or pegs out of it, it tends to snap rather than bend. It's a bit brittle.T6 is the hardening process that it's been through, can't remember off the top of my head if it work hardens or needs temp. Ideal for spacers, I wouldn't spec anything else for racing, anodise it and it'll stand up to road use if you look after the bits. Colour is an option, but hard an Quote Link to comment
JLawson90 Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 cheers mate! Quote Link to comment
JLawson90 Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 one last question .. if the spindle size going through it is 20mm, what diameter would you recommend using? would 38mm be overkill? would 31mm work just as well? Quote Link to comment
markfoggy Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 We've been racing in Endurance for years with a 4mm wall thickness for the front, without any issues. Rear we tend to up it a bit to 5mm as the wheels tend to get thrown into the bike quite hard, though this is just the face at either end of the assembly where it hits the adjusters and only for about 6mm, there's a bit more meat on them than that, It's all about QD wheels specifically for Endurance and you've got to remember here that we're talking structural spacers that actually run through the wheel bearings. I'm guessing that you're going to rely on the seals holding them in in which case you'll not see any problems. 5.5 mm wall will happily handle the side load, the trick would be to keep them short, i.e. 20mm or so. If you're nervous go out to 35mm and you'll be fine. Quote Link to comment
JLawson90 Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 cheers mark, been a big help Quote Link to comment
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