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Posted

I was having problems with not being able to turn off my high beam so I had to open up the control. Not sure what the issue was, but I did find a small piece of plastic floating around inside. Not sure of it’s origin, but after cleaning everything up, it works properly. 
There are lots of tiny parts in there that tried to make a bid for freedom when taking it apart. 

Pictures taken for general documentation. Hopefully helpful for others. 468555DC-D5A2-4C54-B4E6-2828A0F3A161.thumb.jpeg.6b9201be4f13d28fcaeae89c8c121732.jpeg212F29A6-62BC-4318-85CD-9E2A43048024.thumb.jpeg.e5a749b15d6e1d24a55ab651aff2557d.jpegCF821E8B-D442-4325-90A2-4AD50BD2C40B.thumb.jpeg.982f0cc136aad5bfa131e3137dac7640.jpegBE630173-69C9-4A4D-A39A-9D09A9B4C4C6.thumb.jpeg.6389aa7096bcfd172cd36e0ab19cebd8.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

Whoever designed that switch unit should hang their head in shame due to its unecessary complexity and it being a total pain in the arse to use. I gave up on mine years ago and changed to a GSXR unit :).

Edited by Dezza
Posted (edited)
41 minutes ago, Dorkburger said:

Is the GSXR unit a plug and play deal?

No, you'll have to change the connector block. The colour for the wiring is the same though so it's an easy job. This simple change separates the high/low beam switch and the indicator switch so this is a clear gain when actually riding the bike whilst wearing gloves, a point that the designer of the EFE/Katana switch failed to grasp.

Edited by Dezza
Posted

Good to know that there’s a relatively easy replacement if mine fails.

After working that style of switch over the ownership of three bikes going back to the mid 90s it’s second nature . A change at this point might throw this aging rider for a loop. xD

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