Bikes off the road for winter. Let the fun begin.

[Phill106]

Bike is now officially off the road and sorn'd so the plan is now to fix all the little engine problems that I couldn't be bothered to do in the nice warm weather, but now in the freezing cold.   So hoping this little progress blog will keep me motivated as well as helping to track progress. 

I am planning a big bore turbo build but not until next winter so in the run up to that, the main job this winter will be making sure the engine is a good base and running a lot smoother for next year.

First thing was to obviously give it a bloody good clean down and have a good look around. I found a couple of dodgy connections so chopped off the old connections and crimped some nice new spade connectors on. Also found a suspect cable which may have been a contributing factor to the starter issue earlier in the year. 

Next I removed the carbs, ordered a set of new seals and some nice bling stainless bolts. I sent them all to a lad on here who does the ultrasonic cleaning. After getting them back and a lengthy phone call, there's a few issues to sort out. One of the copper pipes has snapped, one carb top has been cracked and previously repaired, one of the fuel float bowls has been damaged and previously repaired, a chewed up grub screw as well as the choke now being extremely sticky. Im assuming this is from the solution used to clean them drying out in plunger chambers, so that hopefully should be an easy fix at least. 

Any advice on removing the grub screw? Iv ordered some screw extractor tools but I'm not sure what results to expect from them or if they will just chew it up. The screw needs to be drilled first so the extractor can get a good hold. 

Also any advice for the copper pipe? I was thinking a little splatter of JB weld or something else. I'm not sure is these pipes are pressurised?

 

Edited October 16, 2015 by Phill106

[Swiss Toni]

Bad news with the carbs, mate. I'm sure the solution wouldn't cause the sticky choke ! I've never had any issues like that. Don't piss about with stud extractors. They just make things worse, and if you snap one...whole job's paggered! What copper pipe you on about? If you can't get a new one, try silver soldering the split?

[Phill106]

Managed to do abit of Friday night stripping.

This copper pipe

which is now more like this.

 

Also now able to have a good look at that grub screw

[Phill106]

Also should mention the copper pipes are non replaceable 

[Phill106]

I got round to start sorting these carbs tonight. Finally removed that pesky grub screw, new seals are in, choke plungers are now nice and free and the new carb tops are on. I just have the copper pipe to fix. I decided to use some two park epoxy bond to join them back together. It should do the trick I'm hoping. 

[Nelson]

Hi Phil

the copper pipes (choke circuit) on mine went the same way.

I used Araldite, but make sure the pipes are held tight up to their original position with zip-ties, you don't want the stuff getting inside.

My repair has lasted 2 years so far, good luck, just take your time.

[Phill106]

@Nelson I took your advice and bought some araldite. What I thought was going to be a nightmare turned out to be a 5 min job  cheers bud. 

 

 

also got myself some new seals and T pieces for the fuel feed to the carbs. The old seals I think we're originals judging from the amount of cracks and slpits in them. I couldn't find my old T pieces from when I stripped them and now the new ones are here I found them again. Annoying! So new ones in with new seals and building then back up tonight. They should work a hell of a lot better. 

 

anyone know anything about float heights? Iv measured them all and they are all standout 12mm? I thought it was meant to be 14.5mm but I can't seem to bend them. They just move to the original position after I let go. Tried a little heat from hair dryer to make them more malleable but same results. Just leave them or is that extra 2mm vital?

Edited November 22, 2015 by Phill106

[Phill106]

Stuck the carbs on at the height they were at and it fired up straight away, didn't have it running long as have a slight oil leak but sounded much better and started easier. 

Anyone got suggestions for like for like replacement of coil packs that will run from the Ecu?