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Crass

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  1. The issue is that so many people now expect everything to be plug and play, and to alert them by on-screen message when something needs looking at with exact details. They are also mostly incapable of doing anything for themselves and have had the shit frightened out of them by modern society against attempting anything they haven't had a professional training course for with full certification. As bikes tend to need constant attention and vigilance they are unsuitable for the fucktards being generated.
  2. NRP have them. https://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/suzuki_carburettor_diaphragms.htm
  3. Thanks guys, some nice work there to give me a pointer to what I need to make
  4. Thanks for that, I'll look into what I can do with some alloy plate then.
  5. I know there was something on here before about this but my searching isn't finding it. I fancy running my Slingy without the bellypan but the fairing side panels need supporting to stop them flapping. I recall that someone elsewhere had made some brackets in carbon fibre for sale which connected everything to a bolt on the genny / clutch covers but they were rather on the expensive side. I haven't got experience of buggering about with carbon fibre so looking for opinions - what do people think of the idea of buying some carbon fibre plate and cutting my own brackets after making templates in plywood to get everything right? Can you tidy up the cut edges successfully/ recoat with lacquer? What thickness plate would be adequate? Carbon fibre plate seems cheap enough and cutting it with a dremel diamond wheel seems to be doable. The only thing I'm not sure about is getting a tidy finish rather than ending up with something looking bodged up. Another issue maybe if a flat plate is not going to line up i.e. needs to be curved. In which case cutting out of alloy plate which could be formed to the required profile may be the way to go.
  6. I'm posting this up in case it helps others in future. As most will know there isn't much room under the tank of oil cooled bikes leading to issues with trapped and kinked fuel hoses. This is made worse when things are not laid out as standard. I've found my bike to be a PITA as the fuel hoses were so short it was a real struggle getting them on and off the fuel tap with the tank not lifting enough to get in. As I was rebuilding the carbs and replacing the hard hoses here's what I've done. First thing to note which is probably part of the problem is that routing on the L model is different and the change came with the RK model. Originally the hose feeding carbs 1 & 2 connected to the fuel tap outlet which points backwards and the hose feeding carbs 3 & 4 connected to the tap outlet which points across the engine. This was reversed with the RK and the hose from 1 & 2 now went straight forward to connect with the tap outlet pointing across the engine with the hose from 3 & 4 running parallel with the rear of the carbs before turning 90 degrees to connect with the tap outlet pointing backwards. Owing to the extra plumbing under the tank if the hoses are not routed correctly you stand the risk of them becoming trapped. On my bike as it came to me the hoses were routed wrongly as per earlier models and were too short to be routed as per the service manual routing diagram. The associated anti-kink protection springs were also only long enough for these truncated hoses. Did it come like this from the factory, who knows? So, the picture below should be self explanatory and show the correct revised arrangements which I have installed. For reference I have used 11mm OD hose and the one connecting carbs 1 & 2 is 38cm long, the one to carbs 3 & 4 is 35cm long. I bought another length of OEM anti-kink spring (still available) and snipped it into two 12 & 15cm lengths and added it to the extended hoses with the original springs. It fits just right to 11mm hose providing support against kinking and the combined lengths compress the springs slightly adding protection. Be aware that you will probably get a sharp burr when you snip the spring so smooth that off and to be extra safe position the cut spring so the snipped end is at the fuel tap end, so the smoothest as-supplied end is in the middle of the hose. Spring clips for 11mm OD hose will fit over the hose at the fuel tap outlets ok (not the case if you use bigger OD hose as there is limited clearance for a clip to slip on). I find that with this arrangement the tank can be tilted plenty far enough up for easy access to the hoses, they fit in the space available without being trapped and they curve without kinking. The springs also provide protection against contact with hot surfaces, although as set out above they do not contact the engine (although it will still be a bit toasty under there).
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  7. If you've got camchain wear it will be longer than new. The tensioner will maintain correct tension, however. Provided you have the exhaust mark lined up and the correct number of pins counted then any slight discrepancy in positioning is probably down to wear. Doesn't mean the chain is worn out but obviously as it wears the mark will slowly drift out of the ideal position. Provided the chain isn't worn beyond serviceable limit everything is fine.
  8. Today was bench test day. So glad I read on here to do this, I would have been so pissed off if I'd struggled to refit them to the bike with how it turned out. So, carbs in an old bowl and connected up to a dummy fuel tank just above them and....fuel pissing out of the air jets in the bellmouth. Mainly 1 & 2 but I didn't leave them long enough to see if 3 & 4 would have followed. So drain the rest out and back onto the bench. The issue is clearly the replacement float valves in the Wemoto kit. Whilst they look similar to the OEM ones removed a detailed examination shows they are not quite right, so others beware. They are slightly longer and the rubber sealing tip is a slightly wider diameter but the same height so it is not as pointy. I didn't actually need these out of the kit, the ones in the carbs looked fine so now to put those back in. This has done me a favour as it happens as I now see from the way the floats sit lower with these in that the way the service manual shows you to measure float height is misleading. Having the carbs inverted as you measure leads to the spring loaded nipple on the valve being depressed giving a false height. Another trap for the unwary. @Swiss Toniputs me right with a better way to do it. With the original valves back in a couple of heights are slightly off so I put them right. Rather than filling the whole lot up at once I sorted 1 & 2 then bench tested, then did 3& 4. Then filled the lot and bloody 1 started leaking. However, that appears to have been a badly seated valve as a quick drain, couple of taps on the float bowl and refill seems to have sorted it. So, currently they've been stood hooked up to fuel for 4 hours and no leaks. I'll give them 24 hours to be sure. What a palaver!
  9. Thanks. Was led up the garden path by some online videos showing the float left unsupported on the valve with the carbs upside down and chaps measuring like that. BST38s as well. Can't beat OSS know how.
  10. The float valves on the BST38s ( and I presume others) have a sort of spring loaded plunger where the tang on the float actuates. When the manual says to measure float height with the float tang just contacting the valve am I correct in thinking that you need to support the float so that you can measure the height when it just touches this plunger? If you don't support the float it compresses the plunger and you're going to get another reading. Seems like a job for an octopus.
  11. I'm pretty sure I've got exactly the same problem you had. Rebuild kit from Wemoto, not branded but the float valves look identical to the wrong ones you were supplied with and yep, fuel pissing out. Thankfully I saw on here to benchtest first. The floats definitely sit at a significantly different height to the OEM valves with these. The OEM ones weren't actually causing a problem so they're going back in. I only wanted the kit for the gaskets etc but decided to use the new valves as well.
  12. 1990 750 also has 5.5" rear wheel
  13. So here we are now, everything rebuilt thanks to a lot of info and help from this excellent community- thanks all. A few curve balls along the way but to be expected when working on bikes of this age. I checked all the float heights as part of the rebuild and all were within spec anyway, so no fiddling needed there. It wouldn't be OSS without a bit of anal attention to detail and even though the power jet circuits are isolated for cosmetic reasons I repaired the broken float bowl nipple with a fuel tee end Plastexed into the broken stub and replaced the missing hoses. Does bugger all but makes me feel better. So now, learning from the bitter experiences of others, next step is a 24 hour bench test.
  14. You're not, you've just saved me a load of grief. Information is only obvious if you already know it.
  15. No, it's not that one it's too small and there's another o-ring supplied which fits the float bowl mounting stem. I'm wondering whether perhaps this kit fits more than one bike / carb and as supplied for a GSXR750L there is an o-ring that is not used?
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