Phill106
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Posts posted by Phill106
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Don't use sealant... But there should be a rubber gasket between the float housing and carb body, but im sure you know that.
The first thing that comes to mind is fuel pressure is too high, the pressure builds up in the float housing and needs to escape, obviously I don't know your setup so unsure if you have an adjustable fuel regulator or pump but I'd check that first just to make sure it's not been played with or knocked over the years <.2bar I know is safe so if you can't remember the pressure from before that might be a good starting point to at least try to get it idling.
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Anyone know where to buy these? Iv been looking around but I'm at a blank. I did message fastbyme but got no reply, so is there anywhere else?
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Is .8 bar safe with Busa pistons?
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I know fuck all about these powerjet systems but if it's running ok, riding ok and your fueling is ok, then I'd just leave it.
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@Nelson I took your advice and bought some araldite. What I thought was going to be a nightmare turned out to be a 5 min job
cheers bud. 
also got myself some new seals and T pieces for the fuel feed to the carbs. The old seals I think we're originals judging from the amount of cracks and slpits in them. I couldn't find my old T pieces from when I stripped them and now the new ones are here I found them again. Annoying! So new ones in with new seals and building then back up tonight. They should work a hell of a lot better.
anyone know anything about float heights? Iv measured them all and they are all standout 12mm? I thought it was meant to be 14.5mm but I can't seem to bend them. They just move to the original position after I let go. Tried a little heat from hair dryer to make them more malleable but same results. Just leave them or is that extra 2mm vital?
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I got round to start sorting these carbs tonight. Finally removed that pesky grub screw, new seals are in, choke plungers are now nice and free and the new carb tops are on. I just have the copper pipe to fix. I decided to use some two park epoxy bond to join them back together. It should do the trick I'm hoping.
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Holy crap! Suppose I can't use the spare turbo iv got then 1.8bar low boost haha
im fond of Garrett turbos. Is a T28 too big?
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What's classed as low boost on one of those? The only experiance of turbos iv had is skylines so going so small is new to me haha.
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So I know it's a common question but I'm yet to actually see a frequently used turbo list. I know any turbo will work generally with work but which turbos are simple fit for use on a common Busa piston'd 1216 gsxr?
I know they need to be oil cooled turbos, but am I looking for a certain bearing type? Anything I should avoid? And also what psi rating should I be looking at? Min and max. I'm not looking for monster power but I'd be happy with 200-250bhp.
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Let me know if you'd like to free up some funds haha
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Where did you find your Busa pistons eventually?
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Also should mention the copper pipes are non replaceable
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Managed to do abit of Friday night stripping.
This copper pipe
which is now more like this.
Also now able to have a good look at that grub screw
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Bike is now officially off the road and sorn'd so the plan is now to fix all the little engine problems that I couldn't be bothered to do in the nice warm weather, but now in the freezing cold.
So hoping this little progress blog will keep me motivated as well as helping to track progress. I am planning a big bore turbo build but not until next winter so in the run up to that, the main job this winter will be making sure the engine is a good base and running a lot smoother for next year.
First thing was to obviously give it a bloody good clean down and have a good look around. I found a couple of dodgy connections so chopped off the old connections and crimped some nice new spade connectors on. Also found a suspect cable which may have been a contributing factor to the starter issue earlier in the year.
Next I removed the carbs, ordered a set of new seals and some nice bling stainless bolts. I sent them all to a lad on here who does the ultrasonic cleaning. After getting them back and a lengthy phone call, there's a few issues to sort out. One of the copper pipes has snapped, one carb top has been cracked and previously repaired, one of the fuel float bowls has been damaged and previously repaired, a chewed up grub screw as well as the choke now being extremely sticky. Im assuming this is from the solution used to clean them drying out in plunger chambers, so that hopefully should be an easy fix at least.
Any advice on removing the grub screw? Iv ordered some screw extractor tools but I'm not sure what results to expect from them or if they will just chew it up. The screw needs to be drilled first so the extractor can get a good hold.
Also any advice for the copper pipe? I was thinking a little splatter of JB weld or something else. I'm not sure is these pipes are pressurised?
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Errr....the make is Turbonetics, T4 blowerside, T3 exhaust side but the actual name of the turbo? Fuck knows....
I'm not getting at you, but, it's kind of important to know what you've got before trying to improve on what sounds like something quite highly tuned.
If I were you I'd find the Id plate and number and then phone turbonetics to find out what the .ar is etc. They also may have suggestion on how to improve the response times and plenum sizes that the turbo prefers.
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@Stephtell Sorry but what turbo is it? A T3/T4 hybrid to me (coming from my skyline background) just means the exhaust housing or flange has been swopped. What actual turbo is it?
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Take the black tops off and lift out the diaphragms. You'll see a small round hole with the brass choke plunger just visible through it. You want some light oil or similar in there, allow it to work its way around the plunger. That'll free them up.
cheers bud I'll try that next
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Un clip the choke puller bar only little black plastic things and slide the choke puller off then tease each brass choke plunger out by pulling on the end! They should? Slide in an out with some spring resistance,
just had myn done and had sticky choke also , freed them off and even took one plunger out completely bit rubber grease slipped it back in.
good luck.
just finished doing that. Haven't taken the plungers out but on second reassembly they are very clunky and difficult to pull out even though the plungers are free. The puller bar is straight so I'm not sure why they aren't free.
Looks like there's a place for a guide of some sort above choke puller bad. Same height as the choke handle? Is their meant to be one there?
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Just opened the box from being ultrasonicly cleaned by mcmetal. Tried to open the choke to make sure it was all free and couldn't open it so I Put the choke handle back on and tried to open the choke again and still can't.
Any suggestions?
(Carbs are bst36ss. 36mm gsxr carbs)
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The pipe you can leave to atmosphere or just put a little filter on it, or a filter to the casing. It's only case ventilation for any vapour
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Coils
in Oil Cooled
Is there any direct fit to plug coil packs?
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I'd replace those rubbers for metal pipe the same diameter then use a bit of silicone pipe to join it to the carb.
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To be honest it sounds like youre talking yourself out of it. You will spend thousands on a build like this, things break, things wear and ultimately everything will. Regardless of them being new or 15+ years old standard or cheap aftermarket parts aren't designed to be holding big boost. If your really are on a tight budget then you'll probably be best just going out and buying a rough muscle bike. Like a gen 1 busa, or save an extra few months and get gen 1 Bmw 1000rr. As you say they'll out perform most bikes straight out of the box, but undertaking a project like this, for me, isn't solely about the performance, It's about knowing the machine inside and out, putting that work in, planning it, having the excitement of gathering that parts and the knowledge then finally putting it all together to be able to go out and ride it and say to people "I build this".
Then 3 months and 1000miles down the line if I have something fail or break while caught in the rain, not to start to think "I should have bought a busa" but rather "right that happened so I'll rebuild this and upgrade that" and then get excited to work on her again.
At the end of the day most things like this are money pits. It's what you personally value the whole experience at that will be the decisive factor if it's ever finished or even started. I'm not saying it can't be done on a budget, but if you don't have a garage full of spares, loads of handy mates and get things perfect first time, then things will soon start to get expensive.
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I hear ya. But it's just a clutch. I'll keep the oil changed and if the clutch thats in there gets fried. I'll be sure to get a better one.
anyway here's the kit. scroll down. the Bandit street kit. I dont really have any local connections in this. Who's gonna make the plenum and manifold and pressure fittings and figure out whats the right fuel pump and where to start with tuning. So the way this is looking so far is buying a kit. This kit...
any objections? better ideas?
I do wish it came with an intercooler...
coming from someone who's in the same boat as you @boilerdude I can see the appeal, but there looks to be a huge difference in quality in reference to the design of the manifolds from kit to kit. If you compare the busa kit manifolds to the bandit ones the busa kits are much prettier and they just look like they flow and perform so much better than the bandit ones. I understand the restraints of space but for that price, I'd expect a awesome flowing manifold.
At the end of the day it's your build, your time and your money, you know what you have in mind and what your expecting from a turbo bandit. if your happy with it go for it. Your always going to get different pros and cons from a forum full of people.
I have heard nothing but good things about Mr Dunlop. It wouldn't hurt to get a price for a bolt on kit from him before you take the plunge?
Top End Oil Feed Kits?
in Forced Induction
Posted
Cheers viz iv emailed him