crow

The linkage will always work best when the arm on the gearchange shaft and the arm on the pedal are both at 90 degrees to the rod. Not sure if the nylon rod is a temporary mock up but if not I wouldn't expect it to survive for long...

Similar story with the rods - looking a bit sorry for themselves but measuring within spec both normal and parallel to the rod. Don't have the right kit to measure the little ends properly so that's based on squinting really hard at my vernier calipers...

Should mention these are Wiseco parts I think rather than OE

Got a GSXR 1100 motor of unknown history, there seems to be some wear on the gudgeon pins as pictured. Can just about feel the scoring with a fingertip, micrometer tells me the diameters are within spec. Anyone tell me if this is normal, or worth replacing while it's apart?

OK further question - I've looked at the parts catalogues for various oil boilers with 36mm carbs, it seems inlet rubbers have the same part numbers between B12 and 1100K, but different on 750J... Anyone know what the difference is?

Tidy thank you gentlemen

Morning all Planning to use RS36s on my slabby 11 motor, can anyone confirm the inlet rubber size I need, Google reckons 42mm is this right? Also anyone know what bike I can get the right size rubbers off? Cheers

I don't think a 0.5mm oversize bore will seal properly, that's a pretty big clearance for the seals to take up. Boring out to14mm will change the hydraulic ratio & make the pedal feel firmer but reduce power. If you go down that route, it might be difficult to get the bore the right size to work correctly, the original will have been machined to precise tolerances to work with the piston & seals. I would just replace it. I use brake fluid on master cylinder seals and red rubber grease on caliper seals