crow

£8.29 these days! Still cheaper than a head gasket though. The newer version is over moulded onto a metal piece, doubt theres anything generic like that

Hi chaps The o-rings that go around 6 of the head studs between barrel and head - anyone know if 1127 seals will work with a 1052 barrel? My barrel is bored out to 78mm (1109cc), so the 1127 head gasket fits otherwise but won't go over the o-ring seals. Cheaper and quicker to get the later model seals rather than a specific big bore head gasket, I just don't know if they will seal, e.g. if the head stud holes are bigger on the 1052? Cheers!

SV1000 are 737mm (top of stanchion to spindle axis), 46mm diameter

I measured squish clearance with the head gasket in & torqued down to spec. It was difficult to measure deck height accurately, so found it by subtracting nominal gasket thickness (0.03") from measured squish clearance. Gasket diameter is only 0.2mm oversized to the bore, so the split between gasket height and deck height makes naff all difference to the CR result.

Morning all I've just installed a Wiseco 1109 kit, and my CR measurements/calcs are yielding some unexpected results. Overall compression ratio is coming out at 11:1, according to Wiseco it should be 12:1. Squish clearance (measured directly using a blob of solder) is 1.56mm. Is it usual run without the base gasket to achieve the CR quoted for the pistons? Assuming the base gasket to be ~0.5mm, removing this gets me pretty close to 12:1 and 1mm squish, which I believe is about the right place to be. Must be more on a standard engine though? If anyone has some numbers from a similar build or a standard 1052 I can compare against it would be much appreciated! Cheers

Too busy trying to sort your shit out without losing a finger

Have I fuck

...and the ones under the barrel... This way is correct yes?

I can tell you that the offset on the 750 is 37.5mm. Don't know about the 11. I would expect them to be different...

Looks like TL1000 or SRAD 750 to me No maybe not, wheel spindle looks wrong. Could be R1...

Tidy

Do they go in with the open end facing up towards the piston, like in the pic below? Pretty sure they do, but if I'm daft enough to take them out without noting the orientation then I'm daft enough to put them back wrong too...

Measuring with the weight of the bike on the fork is unreliable because it's dependent on bike weight, springs fitted, how much fuel is in the tank etc... It's better to measure fully extended length and subtract the desired sag based on unit stroke, then set spring rate & preload to achieve that sag. e.g. let's say a slabby fork is 745mm with 120mm stroke, you might want about 40mm sag with the rider seated so your target length would be 705mm What are you using these numbers for?

Probably no point. The only reason you might do it would be if the bike was unstable with the extra power. Then if the bandit arm is longer you might consider swapping it in. This is purely theoretical, I've got no idea if it actually is longer or if it would fit! I would leave the standard arm in, at least as a starting point.

Could you machine down the disc mounting surfaces on the wheel to fit with the teapot fork spacing? I don't know if anyone has successfully cut and shut a stem before, but I think it would be difficult to keep the upper and lower bearing diameters concentric and parallel enough. Is the zxr stem steel? If it's aluminium it's likely to be 7000 series and might not weld well. My first choice would be to bore out the yokes to fit the teapot stem, but 10mm over on diameter sounds like it would leave you with insufficient material around the hole. Might need a custom stem to make this one work...

Without the seals the valves will fall through, but I suppose if you did one cylinder at a time you could do it with the piston at tdc so the valves have nowhere to fall to? Your main problem would be compressing the valve springs to release the retainers... I have heard of a tool that allows this to be done with the head in situ but never seen it myself... Personally would just take the head off, I don't like the thought of fiddling with valve retainer keepers right next to the cam chain tunnel You could easily lose the time saved by leaving the motor in/head on in a cam chain tunnel fishing trip looking for the parts you dropped down there

314mm does sound about right for 750 J/K

According to the shock length chart in the Vault a slabby 750 shock is 290.5mm long. I know people use an R1 shock that's a bit longer, but you won't get away with 25mm longer. But if you can take some length out by swapping to a shorter eyelet you might be onto something (aim for the length of the R1 shock as a maximum). However you still need to check that the stroke is in the right ball park otherwise your wheel travel will be wrong. You can get a good idea of the stroke by measuring between the bottom of the damper body and the point where the bump rubber sits on the spring seat (ignore the rubber itself)

Correct! But you can buy an eyelet to replace the clevis. I've had one off K-tech for that very purpose. Of course that's no good if the length or stroke is way off. And if the spring and damping isnt right for the bike you're likely to spend more getting it to work thank you could source a different shock for...

The old ones check out OK for free length but I haven't checked the reaction force yet. Sounds like it might be a good idea to replace them even if with stock ones

Thanks for the input chaps! It turned over fine (by hand) before I tore it down, so I don't think the springs were going coil bound and there must be at least a silver rizla's worth of clearance between valve & piston. Will check it all properly once it's back together and timed appropriately. In the meantime, anyone got experience of using a similar cam, what other parts did you use it with/did it eat your rockers etc?! Jonny1bump... How do you go about determining the appropriate pressure for a given valve lift?

Hello gents, looking for some advice/opinions/abuse on the valvetrain for my 1109 motor. I've got a set of Kent camshafts with 6.5mm lift (9.9mm at the valve). Will I be OK with standard rockers & springs as opposed to hard welded & heavy duty? Is there any performance benefit to the heavy duty springs or is the idea just to prevent valve float with big cam lifts?

This guy

Yes it should work assuming the motogadget can read the signal (should just be a case of wiring it in right?) You need a little castellated metal widget that bolts into the end of the output shaft. Same part on bandits & GSXRs from early 2000s