VJ
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Posts posted by VJ
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Well ive got exhaust cam in, 'by the manual' was 6 degrees retarded, ive got it half a degree retarded now as i ran out of slot but im thinking thatl be close enough.
Not sure what to do with inlet though, aparently 2 degrees retarded adds midrange torque but is the cam profile of the powerscreen cams suitable for that? Ive been reading into 'overcamming' and really baffled myself with the rabbithole lol.
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How muchdo i need to slot a pair of sprockets to degree them in?
Looking at degreeing a set of powerscreen cams into a gsx1100g, hoping to dial in a bit more torque so if anyone has suggested lobe centres to run thatd be appreciated.
Cheers
Vj
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I think the gsx1100g sump is the only one that fits iirc, checkthe part number on the gasket to find out.
Ive got a complete G exhaust with remus titanium end can on that is going to be for sale but it looks like you're sorted now, that and im in the uk so postage probably wont be cheap.
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Solved. Dodgy float needle spring caused it to intermittently have another 3mm of fuel which was dumping its way down into the sumpans out the breathers. All sorted now and a catch can fitted to keep an eye on it
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my mate has a scummy old hand painted tigerstripe dr big ratbike in the back of his garden, I want it but he's not keen on letting it go at the moment
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ive ran about 2 foot of hose now up to a proper catch tank i have spare, hopefully check it out soon. The rocker cover breather is free and kicking out a fair amount of oil mist itself but I haven't got a line and catch on that so I cant exactly say how much.
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Straight breather, engine off oil level,
150/175 dry on all 4 and 250ish psi on all 4 witha squirt of oil.
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My dot headed gsx1100g is blowing a lot of oil out of the clutch breather, as in 400ml every 100 miles
What the fuck is wrong? Compression is within 15/20psi across the deck comparing pots.
Oil level was halfway between low and full before it kicked it out on a warm run today
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balanced carbs and a few more miles on the clock seem to have sorted it. Ive only just got this one on the road and im not sure how long it had sat so the clutch could have been a little sticky, its deffo not as on/off as it first was now anyways.
Cheers
John
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Ah this motor has always been hydraulic so no worries there.
I balanced the carbs yesterday and didnt hear the rattle on a quick test run, i was concentrating more on the carburettion at the time though
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Isnt the need for that removed as theres a pushrod at both ends so they spin on each other inside the cases?
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I wouldntbe surprised if the hydraulic distance was wrong because ive no doubt got the wrong slave cyl and also a zzr11 master.
Ive got a balance set so ill give that a go blue, ta.
Cheers
John
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got my gsx11g engined rat on the road now and am playing with jetting (on a private road occifer
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Ive noticed Its a bit of a pain to get into neutral unless moving and has a clutch rattle when the lever is in and the engine is warm.
Anything i need to do here? Ive bodged the pushrod length because the whole thing is a bitsa so I may have that too short but I dont feel any drag with the lever in.
Cheers
John
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this one is made of about 5 plates riveted together with some small gaps inbetween whereas the 750 ones (and hence my spare sprockets) look more like a small pitch final drive chain style.
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Cheers dude. I think im going to get another set of sprockets from somewhere that way ive got the 750 cams stillin and working. Ive only got a spare set of the thin ones and this motor has the wider type chain.
For now i think ill just enjoy her over summer and then do the cams in winter.
Cheers
John
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well I put the 750 teapot cams that belong in that head back in, timed up as standard and it rolled over perfectly smoothly, started well and runs nice. Ive got a bit of carb work to do but otherwise rideable.
I'll leave the powerscreen cams in the garage until I get some adjustable sprockets and the kit to dial it in, i'll come back to this thread for info too. Thanks to all of you for talking me out of doing stupid things again, theres a mine of information here and its mega helpful.
Cheers
John
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Im very tempted to put the 750 cams in then and wait til i can get ape sprockets for the power screen cams then. They have .25mm less lift on inlet and .8mm less on ex so in theory they should time in better on stock sprockets, especially being the right cams for the head?
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i currently have fitted them this afternoon/evening. ended up using stock position for exhaust valve, 1 tooth retarded on inlet cam and wound the valve clearances out to 15 thou to get them to not go stiff when hand cranking with the plugs out. i'm going on the thought that as the powerscreen cams have more lift then increasing the valve clearance will retard the timing of them at a more slight degree than the 8 degrees per tooth I can do, its at the cost of some lift and duration no doubt but It just needs to be rideable for now.
Cheers
John
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Aye im just not sure how i can do it without adjustable sprockets? Im only ever going to be as close as 8degrees as thats what each tooth on the sprocket is equal to.
Does the camchain guide in the rocker cover affect anything much?
Cheers
John
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44 teeth on my sprockets meaning i could me up to 8 degrees out if i get a tooth wrong. Hmmm
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Yeah i get your point. Im going to make a tdc finder from an old spark plug and i have a 1" dti but i dont have adjustable cam sprockets. I guess im going to have to do the best i can and see what tooth i need to level on the block.
I guess uts worth checking even if i cant degree them accurately. At least i can only be 360 degrees ÷ number of teeth on the sprocket out of time right?
Cheers
John
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As in it needs slotted cam sprockets no matter what? Even if i put the new gsxf DOT head and cams on? (92 teapot)
Can i not ignore the marks on the sprockets and just align the timing mark on the crank and the slots on the end of the cam to match the gsxg/power screen manual?
I wouldnt mind degreeing it later for maximum win but ive made a bet that ill be riding it on saturday morning lol.
Cheers
John
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unfortunatley i dont but i seem to remember them lining up sensibly. this gsxf head thats coming has cams in it so i may consider dropping the powerscreen cams for those if i cant be certain of the timing, I dont have the kit to degree them in and even 1 tooth out will probably make a mess or at least a shite power output.
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so I was building a gsx1100g with powerscreen cams and a gsxr DOT head,all went well, rode it to MOT and back, then it dropped an exhaust valve on the way back home.
Long story short I've done an autopsy and am about to try again with a gsxf750 head and replaced a piston but id really rather it not happen again, the way i see it, it was either a sticky valve or i fucked the timing up as all of the pistons have a mark in the exhaust valve recesses in the pistons.
Ive got the gsx11g cam sprockets on the powerscreen cams, and used the gsx11g manual to time it expecting it to respond the same but just have more lift however it didnt really pan out even though id hand cranked it and felt nothing bad during the assembly.
Is there anything I missed or is it possible it jumped a tooth whilst i was putting the camchain tensioner in?
Cheers
John
Slotting sprockets
in Oil Cooled
Posted
So stock gsxg is 100/104 and stock powerscreen is 104/103, ive put these cams i at 105/104.5 on the basis that i cant be arsed chasing a degree when im using a 100mm diameter protractor as a degree wheel.
Got over 50 thou clearance on inlet at 10 deg btdc and the same on ex at 10 atdc so im confident itl be in.
For reference of anyone looking at putting powerscreen cams in a gsx1100g: if you just swap the standard sprockets (roler to hyvo to suit gsxg chain) then bolt them in they time up at 127/98. This will explain why my first engine smashed valves into the piston. Lesson learned, dont make assumptions when building engines.
Cheers
Vj