kev34
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Posts posted by kev34
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On the loose fitting of these cam feeds, is it correct to have the feeds from the oil pick up point both going to the inlet cams and then going to the exhaust cam?
The lengths of the pipes would suggest that is the right way.
I'm assuming the exhaust side will get plenty oil, I don't want to start up the engine before I check this first.
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Really good display of oss yesterday, really impressed with the quality of engineering and style.
Not sure who I was chatting to yesterday but I was the one after the slingy exhaust, rubbers and tank.
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Like the forks, what are they off of?
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Aahh!!! I feel your pain, I took my engine out to get just to give me more room to work on it, good luck.
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I like the big tasty carbs
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17 minutes ago, Wee Man said:
Swing past and say hello.
Most definitely, I will have a few questions to rack you brains
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7 hours ago, Fazz711 said:
Never seen m9 used for anything.
Proper oddball size
Not the exact ones that I was looking at, but just for reference
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I've a few very slack threads for the exhaust studs and was wondering if anyone has rebored and tapped some of the threads in the head to accept 9mm bolts, as there seams to be enough meat left to do that.
I can get m9 x m8 stepped studs, which could be screwed into the head and use the M8 for the exhaust flanges.
Just a thought.
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I'm going, see ye there
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36 minutes ago, Spike said:
Thinking of using Slabby fork and wheels.
Yes, that period forks and wheels would complement the look of the bike.
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Dakar here we come lol
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That looks very trick, all good things comes to those who wait
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Which front end are you going to use
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Very trick swingarm and linkages
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Cheers Dave
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Can the frames be identified by the frame numbers, or what's the visual difference's between 750 and 1100 slingy.
I'm trying to identify my frame if it is 750 so I can build a 7/11
#GV73B-104839
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1 hour ago, george 1100 said:
I have a 1277. There's a big cost to consider because of the sleeves and boring the cases
Where about did you get the work done and may I ask how much?
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Thanks for our input so far, I'm new to this tuning game so just dipping my toe in the water to get some of your expert advice to see which options I have before I commit to what's best to do.
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1 hour ago, clivegto said:
Have you considered 1216cc turbo, myn ride like big bore bikes low down with loads of power midrange and top end, lots better than my 1340cc motor in my opinion.
I had a 1216 turbo a few years ago and yes your right, loads of power everywhere but I had various niggling problems when out and about which resulted in the bike coming home in the back of a van.
I'm looking for something that is, hopefully, more reliable and plenty of power
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NGK for me
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13 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
I don't believe std 1127 'K' barrels / liners will do to those sizes - way to thin for reliability! Carbs depends on what YOU are prepared to accept or want from them - 36 cv's good powerr and drivability, 38's better power and equal drivability, RS36's better power but less drivability,RS38's even better power and maybe ultimate for road but all flatslides need to be driven correctly with set up to suit. Other carbs are an option but are more race orientated so can work on the road but probably not recommended.
4 hours ago, wraith said:As @Gixer1460 says, the bore is sizes your looking at will need new sleeves, the biggest you can go on standard sleeves is 1216cc maybe put 1246 I think? @370steve could say more on that ?
Also if your going that big on a bore you really need to look at bigger valves to get the best out of the bore, also if your motor is tired you may need crank work as well etc etc etc.
carbs again what do you want, if your going for power/toque which I would think you are with that size of bore, flat slide carbs will give you the best power over a CV carb but you have to ride the bike with slide carbs not just hit the throttle or it will just bog down and do nothing. The bigger the carb the more top end power but less toque the smaller the carb the more toque but less top end power (do you want fun on the road or be a Dyno/rolling road hero
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saying that
my kat (gsx1127f motor) has CV 38mm and I love them, tryed the standard 36mm and found it lost power and torque all over the rang 
Going for 1260/1277/1340 I'm looking at new liners, some head work etc which I'm ok with as long as I find a good tuner to do the work.
Carb wise I have standard 36+38 and also fcr 39, but for the road I would prefer loads of torque rather than top end (which is nice to have now and then) but midrange is where I'll be 90% of the time.
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My 1100 slingshot is getting a little tired now so I'm looking to give it some TLC.
I'm planning either a 1277 or 1340 big bore, any pro's or cons with either.
To anyone that has done it which carbs did you find that was best for road use.
Any recommendations on engine tuners to do the job.
Cheers Kev.
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Really good info here, great to see these pics to understand sizes
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Don't use sealant... But there should be a rubber gasket between the float housing and carb body, but im sure you know that.
The first thing that comes to mind is fuel pressure is too high, the pressure builds up in the float housing and needs to escape, obviously I don't know your setup so unsure if you have an adjustable fuel regulator or pump but I'd check that first just to make sure it's not been played with or knocked over the years. <2bar I know is safe so if you can't remember the pressure from before that might be a good starting point to at least try to get it idling.
Iam working away from home and trying to gather as much info as i can to try when i get home again.
I think the regulator is a malpassi? it probably has about 5 different fuel connections on it.
Maybe something has happened to it with lying for so long, can these be stripped and cleaned? That could be an explanation that the carbs are overflowing as its getting to much fuel pressure.
First thing that i could do is fit a gauge going to the carbs to check the fuel pressure.
I hope you meant to type 0.2 bar or about 2.5 - 3.0psi? Obviously a boost sensitive regulator is a requirement to add boost pressure to that setting. Certainly the FCR's are an unusual choice but they are about as good as possible using roller slides to prevent boost induced slide jamming. Smoking could have a few causes not necessarily turbo - fubar'd rings / bores through over fuelling is a possibility?
Is 2.5 3.0 psi a good starting point for the fuel pressure?
Is there a way to check the rings before i start up again, can this be done with a compression tester?
Edit, i recon ive just answered my own question here, i should have asked what would be the reading for a good compression test, bearing in mind i would have to purchase or borrow a tester.
Thanks again for your help,
Kev.
Cam feed pipe configuration
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Thank you.