MikeyVeitch
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Posts posted by MikeyVeitch
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21 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:
You don't get bragging rights at the pub for easy mods. I've had a bike with a stock SSSA and they're great for working on, look amazing, easy to clean the wheel etc, but I believe Triumph listed a 40+ lbs difference between the SSSA and the conventional the one time they offered a choice. These days I'd rather go for the weight savings and easier mods, but they do still look good.
This thing is gonna spend most of its life as a show bike but if it’s worth saying. I think even if the bike ends up heavier (probably won’t because it’s getting a tail swap), the lighter wheel would probably still make it handle a bit better because I’m cutting down of the rotational mass.
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On 10/1/2023 at 4:19 PM, Graeme said:
Ive been looking at similar to a gsxr. All ive learnt so far is there are 2 width swingarms, and only vfr wheels fit. Possible to modify it to take triumph/ducati wheels but not easy from what I've read.
I’ve done a bit or research and from the looks of it, depending on what gsxr you have, it may be as simple as making the swingarm fit, moving the top shock mount and modifying a different linkage to fit. On my bandit, I’ve explored a thousand ways to do it and the simplest way to me is to hack the job lot off my frame and completely change and re weld the frame to take a full cbr1000rr linkage, shock and bone set.
Basically when people say it’s easy, they are lying.
You can do it… if you know how to weld -
I’ll keep it simple. I know that the shock mount needs re-welding
Does the swingarm just bolt into the frame?
Do the chain and wheel centre line match the bike or do they need altered?
What wheels will bolt straight onto the swingarm?
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35 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
you mean like this??
Halfords high temp silver paint, works a treat
Love this pal. I actually already have a tin of this paint but I thought it was going to be too bright lol.
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If I am posting to much shit, just tell me.
I am going to have some barrels bored out and I was wondering, if I left the barrels bare aluminium on the black engine (because I like how it looks), would the aluminium corrode and how fast would it happen? -
9 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:
CVs can't be bored out. The throttle actuates a butterfly valve. You'd either need the butterflies out of larger carbs or to make up some custom ones, and even then, you'd still have to deal with the jet placements in the bore.
BST38s out of the late gen 750s are good carbs, but the extra circuit on the sides of them is only useful if you're running an airbox. I think you're talking about drilling out the slides that are part of the diaphragm, that's standard with dynojet jet kits. Just part of the tuning process, doesn't really do much to otherwise stock carbs. Don't bother polishing the carbs either, you need a little turbulence to help the fuel mix with the air.
What carbs do you have right now? What's your goal? Honestly by the time you do a full rebuild on a beat up old set of carbs, buy the jet kit, and new K&N filters, you're a good chunk of the way to a set of flat slides.
Also double check that you can actually get the intake boots for the carbs you want. That sticky in this section on carbs and intakes has some huge mistakes regarding what fits and what doesn't.
The bike currently has some gsxr1100k carbs. 36mm. I’m running k&n dual filters and the carbs are jetted to suit, would there be any benefit to flow if I was to polish them internally
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Hi guys, It’s me…. again
just because fuck knows I’m not gonna pay the money for a set of bst40ss carbs, how far could you take a set of 36s or 38s
is it possible to bore them out and would there be any benefit to polishing the bores on them too. In an ideal world, I’d just bang some 40s onto them but I just don’t have the money for that shit.
I also hear of people ‘derestricting’ carbs by drilling the hole bigger on the diaphragm, would this also serve any purpose?
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4 hours ago, DAZ said:
Fit the shim head and cams and you basically have a gsxr1100m engine they are not particularly soggy in the middle of the rev range esp if you got 36mm carbs off the bandit rather than the 40s the gsxr had . @Oilyspannerhas tuned his and raves over its road manners
So what hp and torque do you think I’m looking at with the 1100 head?
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30 minutes ago, DAZ said:
Is the dot head you have from a gsxr or a teapot? The teapot cams aren't as hot as the gsxr ones,are the cams in the shim head are good ? I wouldn't imagine that the dot head cams are significantly hotter. the impression I have is that the shim heads are better than the equivalent tappet heads though not necessarily the dot heads, as they don't have the benefit of the better short turn into the back of the valve however if someone has any flow data or dyno sheets to prove one way or another that would be great. I
If you have a gsxr dot head ( not a teapot one ) then use it you'll have hot cams and higher compression
If you have a gsxr1100 m head and cams in good condition then that's better than a bandit 12 head you will just lack some oomph from the compression increase
I have the dot gsxr head but honestly I can’t be arsed dealing with the problems that comes with putting a dot head in a bandit frame. Is the 91-92 shim head 1100 head and cams better for midrange than the dot gsxr head and cams. I ask this because I hear people say that the dot head and cam swap can destroy the midrange torque.
Not too arsed about power above 10 thousand because let’s be honest, this is a road bike. -
That title got your attention didn’t it.
I have made a different post about putting the dot head on my bandit engine to replace the shim head that’s in there already.
General response was that the dot had better cams and the shim flowed better.
May seem like a stupid idea to some but do you think it would be possible to replace the entire rocker assembly in the shim head for the tappet style from a bandit. The difference in castings on the head could easily be rectified by some spaces that I could make on the lathe. Swapping to the the tappet style rockers would make it possible to use the Dot 748 cams as people say that they are the most aggressive of the bunch?
Have fun roasting me
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So I’m getting ready to install this head, does this rubber guide on the intake side need to be removed?
Also, my bandit 1200 rubber fit but don’t seem to king up correctly, so I need the rubbers for a dot head too?
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2 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:
Use the dot head for now. If you ever replace the pistons and bore it out, stick the 92 shim head on it. The 1100 head will work with the higher compression pistons and it's supposed to be the best flowing of all the heads, you just give up aftermarket cams. Or you can use the stock bandit head, get it ported, and use aftermarket cams. Really depends on how much money you want to spend. The dot head is the cheapest and easiest upgrade if you've already got it.
I keep hearing people say that the 1100 shin head ‘flows well’. Is this because of factory porting / different valves? I looked online and they seem to take the same valve size as a 1100/1200 tappet head. No intentions of doing a big bore (on this bike) so in this application, dot gives big angry cams and higher compression so will be the best option.
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8 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:
First gen 750Fs were short stroke 748cc engines as well, but the cams were pretty mild compared to the GSXR cams.
Teapot refers to 600 and 750 Fs, the 1100s are "power screens."
"Dot" heads actually have dots cast in the fins on either side of the head, makes them easy to spot.
I had a threat not too long ago asking similar questions regarding what's needed to do the swap. Shouldn't be more than a few pages back if you look.
Essentially it's a quick and easy way to wake up a bandit engine. You have to use the bandit cam sprockets on the dot cams, new head gasket and O-rings. I've heard different compression ratios, 10.5:1 up to 12.5:1.
It will move the carbs higher up than any other head, so expect issues with the fuel tap, especially if it's a 7/11 or similar. The stock intake rubbers on the dot heads are the best for fitting Mikuni RS carbs, and Suzuki has discontinued them, so join the rest of us in trying to find replacements.
All the benefits of the head swap disappear if you start doing any real engine work to the bandit. If you do a 1216 kit or any head work, better off with the stock head and swap the dot cams, or GSXR 1100(tappet heads only, no shim heads) cams or power screen cams.
What bike are you doing this to? We like photos here. Hope that helps, and definitely search the forums. They've been talked about a lot in here and the occasional build thread.
Bandit 1200 engine
has full gsxr 1127 1992 gearbox and clutch.
I have a shim head also from the 1992 engine, would this be better to use for top end power than the Dot head?
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Tell me if I am wrong because I and getting lots of mixed information
Gsxr 750 f 85, g 86, h 87. Not Dot
gsxr 750 j 88, k 99. Is a dot.
’Teapot’ refers strictly to gsxF engines?
do the short stroke 748cc engines have bigger valves than the longstroke 749cc engine?
if so, are they as big as the 1100/1200 valves?
do the short stroke 748cc engines have a steeper carb/intake angle than the longstroke 749cc engine?
Is the Dot - shortstoke - j/k - 88/89 the right 750 head for my bandit 1200 shenanigans?
what compression am I looking at if I was to place this head onto my FACTORY 1157cc pistons and barrel set?
ps, if I get mixed replies… I’m going to shoot myself but on a serious note, I appreciate any reply’s that you lads and ladettes give me
:)
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Righty so I have bought a b12 engine be due my 91 gsxr 1127 engine deciding that my cylinder 1 connecting rod would be better served in two pieces.
It is indeed, fucking fucked
I am torn between putting on a gsxr 750 dot head or dropping the undamaged 1127 shin head onto it for the sake of using the 1127 cams.
Witch head is better to use for power? Another note is whichever head I don’t use, is for sale.if the dot head has carb clearance issues, I’m not interested.
The b12 engine has a stock bottom end and whilst I am in the doing some dumb shit, I was wondering if it is worth swapping the input shaft and clutch to the 1127 one of if I’m better off just putting another spring into the 1200 pack?
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Hi guys. I have been looking at doing this upgrade. I was just wondering (in simplified terms) what would this do to my torque and power. What will I gain or loose and does anybody know what compression it would run at?
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Thanks for all the reply’s everyone. I’m going to answer some questions that you had.
I am striping the complete engine because my bottom crank case has a cracked mount and the top has no number. Needing the number because I intend to actually declare the engine.
I have found the bearing sizes also. Gsxr-gsf output shaft bearing is 25-62-21.6. Gsx1100f is 25-62-19. Pt no 09262-25103-000. This bearing is the only think I believe I need to replace in order to fit my complete gsxr bottom end with the bandit 1200 gearbox.
I am feeling a bit more confident as I have removed the bottom case from my b12 donor engine and the gearbox mechanisms look simple as fuck.-
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5 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/category/the-vault/page/3
its all in Frankensteins guide.
I was going to read it all to let you know, but cant be arsed
this one was exactly what you described, jumping in and out of 2nd...
young kid moaning that it was supposed to be buillit proof, but broke..
Talked to his dad when i picked it up, he would start it every morning and immediately wheelie up the road stone cold!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I tend to let my bikes warm up and I’m not much of a stunty rider but then you never really know what life an engine has had previously. Are these selector forks damaged or are they useable?
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7 hours ago, Nik said:
Sorry to say, but you cannot replace only one of the cases. The upper and lower cases are machined together, with specific tolerances per crank bearing etc. You'll have to replace the cases together, or repair the engine mount on your current case.
Concerning the gearbox, I'd guess that the dogs on your 2nd/5th gears are rounded off so badly that 2nd gear is slipping out of position when you increase load. What likely happened too is that you tried to keep it in place and your gear shift forks were therefore bent too. Hence the in-and-out-of-drive action.
I'd guess you need to replace 2nd and 5th gears (they are locking into eachother) and check up on your gear shift forks (and possibly the gear drum).
I had to buy both crank cases but my intention was to only replace the bottom one. If I was to rebuild the engine, would it work if I was to build the 1100r components into the 1100f cases. On the subject of the gearbox, how much if it could be replaced with b12 components?
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Im running into a problem with my 1127 engine. Problem is under power, the box jumps from 2nd to neutral and back to 2nd very quickly. As you could imagine, this happening whilst I’m on the throttle is not a fun experience. Through the last week, this has gotten a lot worse and is happening more frequently. I’m willing to place a bet and say that the problem is stemming from the shifter mechanism and I have had no funky sound happening when the bike is on the stand and running in second at any rpm. As you all know, coming across 1127 parts is a pain in the arse so how much of the gearbox components are interchangeable between the 1127 and the b12 motor just in the event that I have to start replacing shit?
Edit: I am also replacing the bottom half of the crank case due to a cracked engine mount. Will a 1100f bottom crank fit onto a 1100r top crank?
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I’ve recently came into possession of some rs36 flat side mikuni carbs.
I was wondering a couple of things and the first being, what are these carbs even from. Second being would it be worth running them over a bst36ss b12 carb and my stock 1127 gsxr engine or would it just be for the cool factor.
I am running full custom exhaust and pod filters at the minute on a 155 jet. -
All the reply’s, pictures and advise is very appreciated guys but I came to the conclusion that I couldn’t find any stepped top yokes or couldn’t afford extended caps without selling a kidney and my left bollock so fuck it I made some. I’ll upload some pictures with this post. I had some spare caps laying a round so I use a lathe to bevel the edges and did the same to a piece of ally pipe (65mm x 52mm od x 42mm id), had a friend weld them to the caps and then I lathed them back down to 50mm. Is all working very well and I no longer feel my cock getting slammed up against the tank every time I get on the brakes. Forks successfully extended by 65mm.
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I do t think this is going to help anyone but I was told that early model gsxr headers would fit onto my 1127 motor. Couldn’t be further from the truth. I managed to make mine fit with about 30 pie cuts and welds. It was a little more drastic than just bending them into place as other people have done
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I have recently swapped a k2 gsxr 1000 front end into my 1998 Suzuki bandit. I can help but notice that the front end feels low because the forks are shorter than the bandit ones and it’s kind of fucking with how the bike sits. I feel like I’m going to fall off the front whenever I am just cruising. Has anybody figured out a way to lower the forks or can somebody post some links to steppes top yokes or fork tube extensions as I can’t seem to find any.
As always, thank for the help lads and ladettes.
92’ 1127 head skimming for compression
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Hi all.
I am in the process of building a motor for my custom bandit. They way it’s looking is a completely stock b12 bottom end with 1992 gsxr 1100 pistons, barrels and head with 38mm carbs.
I have looked all over and can’t seem to find concrete figures on how much material I should be removing from my cylinder head.
As standard I have 10-1 compression but I’m looking to find out what needs to be done for 11-1 or 11.5-1 compression.
As always, any reply is greatly appreciated and I look forward to hearing back from you bunch of mad folks.