MikeyVeitch

Hi all. I am in the process of building a motor for my custom bandit. They way it’s looking is a completely stock b12 bottom end with 1992 gsxr 1100 pistons, barrels and head with 38mm carbs. I have looked all over and can’t seem to find concrete figures on how much material I should be removing from my cylinder head. As standard I have 10-1 compression but I’m looking to find out what needs to be done for 11-1 or 11.5-1 compression. As always, any reply is greatly appreciated and I look forward to hearing back from you bunch of mad folks.

This thing is gonna spend most of its life as a show bike but if it’s worth saying. I think even if the bike ends up heavier (probably won’t because it’s getting a tail swap), the lighter wheel would probably still make it handle a bit better because I’m cutting down of the rotational mass.

I’ve done a bit or research and from the looks of it, depending on what gsxr you have, it may be as simple as making the swingarm fit, moving the top shock mount and modifying a different linkage to fit. On my bandit, I’ve explored a thousand ways to do it and the simplest way to me is to hack the job lot off my frame and completely change and re weld the frame to take a full cbr1000rr linkage, shock and bone set. Basically when people say it’s easy, they are lying. You can do it… if you know how to weld

I’ll keep it simple. I know that the shock mount needs re-welding Does the swingarm just bolt into the frame? Do the chain and wheel centre line match the bike or do they need altered? What wheels will bolt straight onto the swingarm?

Love this pal. I actually already have a tin of this paint but I thought it was going to be too bright lol.

If I am posting to much shit, just tell me. I am going to have some barrels bored out and I was wondering, if I left the barrels bare aluminium on the black engine (because I like how it looks), would the aluminium corrode and how fast would it happen?

The bike currently has some gsxr1100k carbs. 36mm. I’m running k&n dual filters and the carbs are jetted to suit, would there be any benefit to flow if I was to polish them internally

Hi guys, It’s me…. again just because fuck knows I’m not gonna pay the money for a set of bst40ss carbs, how far could you take a set of 36s or 38s is it possible to bore them out and would there be any benefit to polishing the bores on them too. In an ideal world, I’d just bang some 40s onto them but I just don’t have the money for that shit. I also hear of people ‘derestricting’ carbs by drilling the hole bigger on the diaphragm, would this also serve any purpose?

So what hp and torque do you think I’m looking at with the 1100 head?

I have the dot gsxr head but honestly I can’t be arsed dealing with the problems that comes with putting a dot head in a bandit frame. Is the 91-92 shim head 1100 head and cams better for midrange than the dot gsxr head and cams. I ask this because I hear people say that the dot head and cam swap can destroy the midrange torque. Not too arsed about power above 10 thousand because let’s be honest, this is a road bike.

That title got your attention didn’t it. I have made a different post about putting the dot head on my bandit engine to replace the shim head that’s in there already. General response was that the dot had better cams and the shim flowed better. May seem like a stupid idea to some but do you think it would be possible to replace the entire rocker assembly in the shim head for the tappet style from a bandit. The difference in castings on the head could easily be rectified by some spaces that I could make on the lathe. Swapping to the the tappet style rockers would make it possible to use the Dot 748 cams as people say that they are the most aggressive of the bunch? Have fun roasting me

So I’m getting ready to install this head, does this rubber guide on the intake side need to be removed? Also, my bandit 1200 rubber fit but don’t seem to king up correctly, so I need the rubbers for a dot head too?

I keep hearing people say that the 1100 shin head ‘flows well’. Is this because of factory porting / different valves? I looked online and they seem to take the same valve size as a 1100/1200 tappet head. No intentions of doing a big bore (on this bike) so in this application, dot gives big angry cams and higher compression so will be the best option.

Bandit 1200 engine has full gsxr 1127 1992 gearbox and clutch. I have a shim head also from the 1992 engine, would this be better to use for top end power than the Dot head?

Tell me if I am wrong because I and getting lots of mixed information Gsxr 750 f 85, g 86, h 87. Not Dot gsxr 750 j 88, k 99. Is a dot. ’Teapot’ refers strictly to gsxF engines? do the short stroke 748cc engines have bigger valves than the longstroke 749cc engine? if so, are they as big as the 1100/1200 valves? do the short stroke 748cc engines have a steeper carb/intake angle than the longstroke 749cc engine? Is the Dot - shortstoke - j/k - 88/89 the right 750 head for my bandit 1200 shenanigans? what compression am I looking at if I was to place this head onto my FACTORY 1157cc pistons and barrel set? ps, if I get mixed replies… I’m going to shoot myself but on a serious note, I appreciate any reply’s that you lads and ladettes give me :)

Righty so I have bought a b12 engine be due my 91 gsxr 1127 engine deciding that my cylinder 1 connecting rod would be better served in two pieces. It is indeed, fucking fucked I am torn between putting on a gsxr 750 dot head or dropping the undamaged 1127 shin head onto it for the sake of using the 1127 cams. Witch head is better to use for power? Another note is whichever head I don’t use, is for sale. if the dot head has carb clearance issues, I’m not interested. The b12 engine has a stock bottom end and whilst I am in the doing some dumb shit, I was wondering if it is worth swapping the input shaft and clutch to the 1127 one of if I’m better off just putting another spring into the 1200 pack?

Hi guys. I have been looking at doing this upgrade. I was just wondering (in simplified terms) what would this do to my torque and power. What will I gain or loose and does anybody know what compression it would run at?

Thanks for all the reply’s everyone. I’m going to answer some questions that you had. I am striping the complete engine because my bottom crank case has a cracked mount and the top has no number. Needing the number because I intend to actually declare the engine. I have found the bearing sizes also. Gsxr-gsf output shaft bearing is 25-62-21.6. Gsx1100f is 25-62-19. Pt no 09262-25103-000. This bearing is the only think I believe I need to replace in order to fit my complete gsxr bottom end with the bandit 1200 gearbox. I am feeling a bit more confident as I have removed the bottom case from my b12 donor engine and the gearbox mechanisms look simple as fuck.

I tend to let my bikes warm up and I’m not much of a stunty rider but then you never really know what life an engine has had previously. Are these selector forks damaged or are they useable?

I had to buy both crank cases but my intention was to only replace the bottom one. If I was to rebuild the engine, would it work if I was to build the 1100r components into the 1100f cases. On the subject of the gearbox, how much if it could be replaced with b12 components?

Im running into a problem with my 1127 engine. Problem is under power, the box jumps from 2nd to neutral and back to 2nd very quickly. As you could imagine, this happening whilst I’m on the throttle is not a fun experience. Through the last week, this has gotten a lot worse and is happening more frequently. I’m willing to place a bet and say that the problem is stemming from the shifter mechanism and I have had no funky sound happening when the bike is on the stand and running in second at any rpm. As you all know, coming across 1127 parts is a pain in the arse so how much of the gearbox components are interchangeable between the 1127 and the b12 motor just in the event that I have to start replacing shit? Edit: I am also replacing the bottom half of the crank case due to a cracked engine mount. Will a 1100f bottom crank fit onto a 1100r top crank?

I’ve recently came into possession of some rs36 flat side mikuni carbs. I was wondering a couple of things and the first being, what are these carbs even from. Second being would it be worth running them over a bst36ss b12 carb and my stock 1127 gsxr engine or would it just be for the cool factor. I am running full custom exhaust and pod filters at the minute on a 155 jet.

All the reply’s, pictures and advise is very appreciated guys but I came to the conclusion that I couldn’t find any stepped top yokes or couldn’t afford extended caps without selling a kidney and my left bollock so fuck it I made some. I’ll upload some pictures with this post. I had some spare caps laying a round so I use a lathe to bevel the edges and did the same to a piece of ally pipe (65mm x 52mm od x 42mm id), had a friend weld them to the caps and then I lathed them back down to 50mm. Is all working very well and I no longer feel my cock getting slammed up against the tank every time I get on the brakes. Forks successfully extended by 65mm.

I do t think this is going to help anyone but I was told that early model gsxr headers would fit onto my 1127 motor. Couldn’t be further from the truth. I managed to make mine fit with about 30 pie cuts and welds. It was a little more drastic than just bending them into place as other people have done

I have recently swapped a k2 gsxr 1000 front end into my 1998 Suzuki bandit. I can help but notice that the front end feels low because the forks are shorter than the bandit ones and it’s kind of fucking with how the bike sits. I feel like I’m going to fall off the front whenever I am just cruising. Has anybody figured out a way to lower the forks or can somebody post some links to steppes top yokes or fork tube extensions as I can’t seem to find any. As always, thank for the help lads and ladettes.