slingy1157
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Posts posted by slingy1157
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Hi JK1, been following your build. Like it alot. Are you sure it's not the fuel pump not keeping up? Or a restriction in the fuel circuit somewhere. If you keep adding injector opening time but have no gain in afr, it sounds like fuel pressure or flow isn't enough.
If it's only doing it above 7k when boosting, then as everything on the intake side is under pressure, if it was leaking, this will result in a drop of boost pressure and thus for a given amount of fuel, it should go richer. but all depends a bit how your fueling is set up to work.
Anyway, nearly there keep at it.
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Stock cylinder studs, or APE?Pretty sure APE studs and nuts with oem gasket is all you need for up to 20 psi. As far as keeping the head on goes anyway lol
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Good to see you back. Looking forward to how it goes on the dyno and to see what an injected draw through operates like. Much coolness
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Ok, great, thanks for info.;-)
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Did you do the Swedish conversion? Or just added another spring?? Adding another spring isn't enough.
I have a an extra spring and did the Swedish conversion, 230 bhp and 190 nm torgue no clutchslip at all.
if you can share some more info on this it would be AWESOME!
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Ah, right. I thought this must be the only way it would really work.
I did think about spacing out the top hat fitting by the thickness of the extra diaphragm but the nut is already at the end of the threads so didn't seem feasible...... Unless I machined the nut down by the same amount I suppose. Think it better to machine down the top Hat spring retainer by the thickness of the extra spring.
So, on my bandit motor ,I could fit a complete gsxr1100L/M diaphragm clutch to gain the bigger steel basket, then do this mod with 3 springs and be good for 200+ BHP?
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Oh and how much boost out of interest?
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Hi,
my mate's blow through GSX-R1100N started to show some clutch slip since we rebuilt the engine last winter with Busa pistons. We estimate the power now around 180 hp at the back wheel.
To cure the clutch slip, we have put an extra diaphragm spring in it, now 3 instead of 2. And it's not slipping anymore.
Are there any downsides to this mod, besides a bit more lever pressure needed? Will anything break or wear faster?
I just put 2 barnett springs in my b12 motor, seems not too hard still to pull. I had heard of pepole using 2 barnett and 1standard so out of interest tried it. Holy fuck, could hardly pull the lever in and the pressure plate didn't lift as much or evenly.
If you use 3, would you need to machine down the collar that compress the diaphrams by the thickness of 1 spring so they end up compressed to the same point as with 2. Does that make sense? It struck me, that with the third spring, rather than the centre nut pulling the convex diaphragm flat, the extra thickness of the extra spring actually pulls them concave and causes alot of stress. I know lock ups are the go anyway, but just wondering what people have done in the past. I know most of the proboost bikes don't use lock ups and they just say the clutch has been modded to take the power.
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just remember now (what a nights good sleep can do) that on my 2nd gen. B12 engined bike with Slingy loom, I connected the blue wire from the switch to the blue wire from the loom and it worked. Nothing else needs connecting or modifying.
Cheers CC.
Good sleep is indeed a head clearer as is tea lol
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I haven't wired it up yet, but if i find out anything different, ill let you guys know
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Right...... went back out and had another look at all this and realised something rather STUPID on my part!
I had put the gearbox lever on upside down so i was checking between 5th, a false neutral and 4th! IDIOT.
So, reversed the linkage and retested it all to find out the following.
To use with a gsxr loom, cut the plug off the bandit neutral light switch and:
- Ground the black wire (this seems to be the common centre pin of the switch)
- Blue is indeed the neutral possition, so this can be connected to the neutral light wire of the GSXR loom.
- Red (i have herd of this called the wheely wire on some forums) this indicates 2nd gear possition
- Green indicates 3rd gear
Right a bit happier know, it all makes a bit more sense when your in the right possition in the gearbox haha
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here's en put bike in neutrel and use a meter to find the one that is continuious to earth....
But as Captain Chaos said blue is often netural on suzuki switch
yep, allready tried that as well, all wires to ground and to each other in first, neutral and second gears, but no definitive reading.
From what I have seven, the bandit ones have a centre contact which I think is the black wire, blue may be neutral and the other 2 I think are 1st and 2nd gear used for the ignition. But that's cool if no one knows I'll pull it apart again and find out and report back.
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I would but it's already built in behind my outrigger bearing plate and offset sprocket, so was kinda hoping someone had already worked it out.
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Hi guys and gals,
Ok nice simple one, out of the 4 wires that go the neutral light switch on my 02 bandit 12 motor, what do i need to make it work with my single connection on my GSXR750K loom.
And what are the others for? could they be of use for gear based boost for example in lower gears. Googled pictures of them and tried to find out some hard facts but to no real outcome.
Anyone care to clarify what all the functions are, referenced to the wire colours?
Cheers Peeps
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Flouresent tube manifold aye, your skills truely are limitless mate!
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Niiiiice! I take it by the lack of an alternator that it's a race bike?
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i was playing with covers the other day as i wanted a cover with a return line fitting and as i already had my old 750 cover with a brass BSPT fitting in it i thought i would give it a go on the 12.
Well it fits..........................with an angle grinder for a bit of fine adjustment.
So knock out the clutch opperating mech and bearing, then grind out excess materail and internal webs down as shown. Then grind off and clean up where the cable mount point was as well,
Then it fits as shown
Plus , you get a nice hole to use for a vent location or oil drain for draw through etc. I am going to turn up an alloy bung with O-ring around it with a hose barb fitting in it for a breather point, rather than going into the filler . Plus if you need to machine the cover to take a Lock up housing or window, you dont have all that webbing to deal with like on a bandit cover, plus they are cheaper and easier to get.
Cheers all
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Build an alloy airbox to fit the space available in the efe frame, then nice and easy for Dave to turbo it for you when it gets boring!
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Or fit an ally carb top ...........and notch that!
I was going yo say similar about cutting and JB welding a flat of alloy on the carb cap, smoothed on the inside with JB, sanded and painted on the outside, would look ok, and save the frame. Should work fine as long as you don't change the area the slide moves up into.
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Oh my god Sander, when I started reading this thread I couldn't believe you were pulling the slabby apart as it looked so good, but..........I take my hat off too you for creating one of the most unique and stunning turbo bikes I have seen. Luv it and I am sure the original owner will be satisfied in the knowledge you have given life to it. Bloody Awesome!!
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Nice, what a/r is that T3? Is it stock displacement or bigger?Going ito be cool as
Project; Whizzy Pop Slingshot
in Forced Induction
Posted
Very, very nice. What kind if mill?