slingy1157
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Posts posted by slingy1157
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Wow, very impressive figures Arttu. 320BHP is awesome figures from a gsx based motor.
You must be well happy with that
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Can't say that I have had any exposure to microtechs. What's the exact model number? Be interested to look at its features and capabilities.
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Ok, so I had a bit of a thread on this an age ago, so thought I would follow it up. If putting a B12 Motor into a slingshot and using the slingshot loom, out of the 4 wires from the gear selector switch on the B12, connect the blue wire to the neutral switch wire plug on the slingshot loom and your neutral light will work fine, job done.
Just tested this meself last night, and very happy with it.
Cheers
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Well that ruins those plans. I was hoping to run a small table as my gauges and data logger.
mate, go for it, my phone works with shadowdash on bluetooth, Ok. Just when I started down that road, shadowdash didn't exist and I was trying to get a full version of tunerstudio working on a windows based tablet. Just couldn't stop it glitching. An android tablet such as a galaxy should be fine.
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Mine has been good, never let me down, and worked alot better than my carbs ever did under boost.
My only issues have been with trying to use a tablet as adashboard. Never effected how it ran just burnt a shit load of hours trouble shooting to still have trouble.
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It is a shame. And there are alot of traps with Squirt products.A guy who I helped went from running ok to all sorts of weird stuff going on after a firmware upgrade. Turned out he had installed the firmware for megasquirt 3 rather than the MS2 extra that microsquirt uses because the new microsquirt is called V3.
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So true! The fasteners get a right Royal workout! Mind you very satisfying when sorted.
I wwouldn't know, I spat the dummy and went efi before I got mine sorted haha
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Pitot design is black magic voodoo shit but basics seem to be.
Keep away from turbulent area's such as elbows or turbo outlet, and generally the pitot running parallel with the uppipe seem to work better. Like you say, I would use a 10 mm pitot, then block the end and drill maybe a 3mm hole in it. Then this can be opened up 0.5 mm at a time untill you find a size that works for your system.
This is what isrecommended by Unclebobs Turbo's. Google it, it's a very good resource.
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Long be afraid to hit screw driver with hammer repeatedidly while trying to turn to loosen, or use an impact driver. Also a good idea to replace all fasteners on the carbs with socket head screws as they will be apart ALOT before your done.
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You need to get the fuel pressure as low as possible. You can even take the spring out of the fuel pressure regulator as just the internal restrictions will give 1.5 to 2 psi fuel pressure which is on the limit of what the float valves can hold safely. And remember, the higher the fuel pressure the higher the fuel level will be in the carbs and the more adjustment to float height you'll need
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Also lockwire or zippy tie the floatbowls vent hoses and fuel pipes to stop it all blowing apart with boost. Easier doing it with carbs off as very fiddly
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Ok, carbs are pretty much stock, but, because of the increased fuel pressure, the fuel level rises in the bowls, so you need to reduce the fuel height, usually by about 2mm.
So do the usual turn carbs up side down, take bowls off, then with them still up side down, measure from the carb bowl gasket surface to the highest point on the float. should be about 13.5mm stock I think, but what ever it is, first check all 4 are the same, then bend the little tab in the centre of the float down untill you raise each float to 15.5mm (if starting at the example measurement of 13.5mm). This will help stop them from flooding and keep fueling nearer the stock jetting.
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Mate, I think you pretty much hit the nail on the head in your first post. Boost will start a bit later and there may be the potential for more top end power but that would still depend largely on the spec of the turbo itself as to what is the biggest restriction in the the system. Header size, or turbo a/r. But from what I know, I don't think the gains will be noticeable.
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Real lovely build, well done
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I have an Innovate lc1 and it's been good for the money, but have heard they can burn the sensor out in about 30 hours of use due to no control of the current to the heater in the sensor. But mine has been ok so far
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Mate, hate to say it, but I think that bandit pipe isn't any good for fabricating a header. I used a cheap gsxr750w 4 into 1 header (single skin) to fabricate my first header and that worked out ok, but can't see that that double skin pipe is workable. Either find another cheap single skin exhaust or find s supplier of pipe bends and start from scratch.
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What does the MAP read when the engine isn't running? Ie what value is it giving atmospheric ?
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I have a microsquirt on a B12 with a 36-1 wheel and found the missing tooth needs to be around 90 degrees BTDC to get a constant speed as thats half way between compression cycles.
Yep. That's how mine is also, but it didn't work on the aircooled Z. Had too go off the tooth logger as to the best place to put it.
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Christ that's bad luck man. Did your inlet plenum have a central divider in it? I have read that uneven charge to the cylinders is pretty bad on a draw through intake without it?
So you actually replacing the microsquirt with a different brand ecu
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This might be a stupid question but what Map sensor is it using? If it's a 2 bar sensor, then this will only actually read to 1 bar of boost then be out of range? But datalog is your friend here for sure to sorting this.
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Agreed. Looks like a nice clean solution. I helped with an install on an aircooled z and found we had to move the trigger wheel around to phase the missing tooth with fastest part of the cranking cycle to get a good tach signal for starting. Oil cooled motor's don't seem as bad for this.
Did you find similar Arttu ?
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There is a few of us now using microsquirt. I would say it is very good for the price, good support through the forums. And because of the open source nature developments are happening all the time. Things like android apps so you can view all sensor outputs and datalog off your phone is pretty good. Pay the money and get the full version of Tunerstudio as well. It's really good Software and the auto tune function works really well. No real need for dyno time unless you really want to. Just laptop in a rucksack and ride around while it tunes for you. Anyway read up, there is heaps of info out there.
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My turbo bike on cast suzuki pistons, 18psi.
That looks awesome JR. Any chance you fancy doing a little thread about it, a few more piccys and components used, spec, general experiences learned along the way etc. Would love to here the story behind it:-D
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I have stock suzuki cast pistons in my 1127 turbo bike, use up to 18psi.Its been on the road for years, never had it apart.It does does have a intercooler....
A good tune is the key to a healthy motor, forged pistons only give you a margin of safety, they won't last if the tune is off!
got any pictures of your system and intercooler setup JR?
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shiney stuff
in Oil Cooled
Posted · Edited by slingy1157
bloody fingers
Looks good. I might use that disc spacer idea.
I am putting a front end together. Zx10r forks in L/M 750 tripples, zx6r wheel and speedo drive. I was going to use a slingy spindle but the large end is 27mm OD but the hollow flares out inside it to 20mm id, so machining the OD down to 25mm and only leaving 2.5mm wall thickness just didn't sit well. So as it turned out the spindle for the zx6r is 20mm with 25mm ends so fitted the forks perfect. Just a smidgen long still so made a couple of alloy cups to tidy up the axle ends and space them out. Discs need spacing 2.5 mm same as yours.