TiZiK

I see what you’re getting at. This is the only pic I was able to dig up showing the bottom of the block. There is indeed a groove there. would the copper gasket not block it anyway? Now you got me thinking if that’s possible

Yes. Had it done by Hi Performance Machine in Burnaby. While they are an excellent machine shop, they weren’t familiar with the oil cooled engines so ended up cutting into the gallery. I drilled and tapped the gallery and used 12mm long grub screws with red loctite to block them.

I’ve received a few fittings and measured the id. The -4 are 5mm at the smallest point that I could measure. I believe the original jets that fed the head were only around 1 mm x 2 jets. I’ve left the squeaky cams in there for now. Hoping to hear a vast difference with the new lines before I install another set. I’ll at least get to watch the oil pressure that the head itself is actually seeing as well.

From what I remember, it’s the original sump. Still has the PRV as well. what does an original slabby sump look like?

I can pull sump easily. I have it off actually before this latest cam failure to clean the sediment from the last failure. All relief valves were pulled and cleaned in engine and sump cover.

Yes. Matching cam caps to head. I think my issue was volume as oppose to pressure. I was using -3 brake lines I had here and double banjos. That’s a lot of restriction to flow volume. Makes sense as I always seen good pressure which is what has been frustrating me. Anyhow, I’ve done away with the -3 lines and all banjo fittings. I’ve ordered -4 lines and full flow fittings. Coming from the main gallery it will go to a tee in between the throttle bodies. I have a straight fitting going to the tee that has a 1/8 NPT port for a pressure gauge. From the tee it will go to each side top end oiler via full flow 90s. Will update again once I get my fittings. Should be here this week

OK guys, I’m at a loss here. Put in another set of cams and rockers, close it up and check oil pressure while running. I had around 70 psi at idle, and around 100 psi with RPMs. Engine is dry blocked meaning the 2 galleries that feed the head through the studs are blocked off internally. I have a top and Oiler kit fed from the main oil Gallery on the right side with and oil line going from the right side to the left side. The turbo is also being fed from the right side gallery but I have a 1 mm restrictor. Main circuit and cooling circuit are still independent of each other. Cooling circuit is untouched aside from braided lines. Bike was running extremely rich even though I pulled fuel out from idle so I suspected that the injectors were gummed up as I left fuel in there for a few months. Pulled injectors yesterday, clean them all up, reinstalled today, fire up bike and shortly there after the dreaded squeak came back. Pulled the right side cover and connected and oil pressure gauge again and now I’m only seeing 40 psi. Only thing I can think of at this point is the cam journal on the cylinder that had the damaged cams and rockers, showed some signs of scoring. It didn’t look very bad but in hindsight I should have plastic gauged. I am completely chapped and stumped at the moment so I just put the tools down and walked away. Open to insults and suggestions. Ha!

Thanks Arttu for that link. It was actually really helpful. So I did a quick test on the fox shock. I pulled all preload off the spring, backed off the compression and turned rebound to max. Well, I think this shock is more than adequate. At those settings, It takes almost a full minute to revert back to its original height. Took a few turns out of the rebound and it currently rebounds at the same rate as the s1000rr in Brocks video. About 3 seconds to revert to original position. As I'm all of 160 lbs, I think I will need a lighter spring as I can only get it to squat around 2 inches (measured from the swingarm to the very back tip of the subframe) I guess the best thing to take away is that the valving is up to the task. Thanks again Gents for the replies. Sometimes I just need to talk it out with others who can offer a different point of view. Cheers! George

Thanks Gents. I was afraid of that Mainly for cost purposes but we all know going fast is not cheap. As it stands, the bike currently has a Fox Racing shock. I picked it up years ago in a parts lot. Not sure what bike its originally from but I think I recall it being a 750 shock. I'm trying to get model info but the net is scarce on info regarding older Fox shocks. It has a blue adjustor ring just above the bottom mount. I'm guessing thats rebound and it has a red dial on the remote canister, compression I'm assuming. If I can get some info on this thing, I'll dis-assemble and revalve the rebound shim stack to slow it down some. My R6 streetfighter has a Penske Rear shock as well, if thats a viable option, I'll swap that out for the stock unit as it doesn't see the street much anymore.

Looking for shock options for slabby 1100. Built for drag racing. Running appx 68" wheelbase. Bike has a turbo as well. What are some shock options that work well for the strip? I know some R1 and R6 shocks are pretty much direct swaps. Any other options?

Sorted. Apparently the operator was the error. Bike is EFI and I’m using a 36-1 trigger wheel. I was using the missing tooth as TDC when it should have been 90* from that. Maybe the fumes from the propane heater in the garage got to my head. Lol. It’s -20c or so here right now. Anyhow, all sorted now. Degreed the cams tonight. Onwards and upwards…

I’m in Canada. Just north of Toronto. And ya, I’m leaving it for the night. I’ll check it tomorrow after work. See what’s what.

Yes. With tappets fully backed off, no issues. Also, no issues on the exhaust side even with lash set to .005” I just went and had a look and the sprockets seem to be in the same spot. At tdc, the lines look correct and the lines on the right side end of the cams are lined up as well. I threw in the towel for the night so I’ll get at it again tomorrow. I’ve swapped cams so many times with no issues. It’s possible I over looked something. So even though the rockers look different, the dimensions should be the same?

Wait a sec. If you mean lines up properly as in timed correctly then yes. Intake was set 22 pins from the exhaust. At TDC, cam positions look correct. Maybe I’ll pull out the degree wheel tomorrow and verify.

Cams are lined up properly. I mean, they really only go in one way unless forced. Lol I swapped the sprockets as they’re slotted. I picked the best of the bunch from the spares I had. A couple are on the iffy side. I’m wanting to confirm my oiling issue is resolved and I am planning to send out a set for hard welding. Bloody expensive tho. 70$ usd each rocker from A.P.E. Just baffled as to why the valves are touching now. I’ll give it a day to see if anyone has come across this then I’ll swap the rockers for the flatter looking style.

Hey all! Happy new year and all that. Swapped out the cams and rockers on the gsxr 1100g from the spares I had tucked away. Was in the process of setting valve lash (0.005”) and while turning the engine over, intake valves touched the piston. Double checked the clearance and was spot on. Increased to (0.006”) and valves still touching. Measured cam lobes and base circle and on all 4 sets I have here, they measured the same. 28mm base circle and roughly 34mm height. Now I’m scratching my head like wtf??? Checked the rockers and the screw adjusters. All the screw adjusters are the same. I did notice a difference in shape tho as outlined in the attached pics. One style is relatively flat between the two adjusters. The other style has a different casting shape. I never noticed this before. Upon noticing, there are 2 cylinders which have the different casting shape and with valve lash adjusted to spec, they don’t touch the piston even though the cam lobes are the same measurements. Can anyone shed some light on this? What am I missing? Do the different style rockers have a different angle which opens the valve more even with the correct clearance? Engine was running fine with no clearance issues. Had an oil pressure issue which took out the old cams. Edit: I did strip a dot head and put cams and rockers in with my spares Didn’t notice the difference until now

What are my options for camshafts on an 86 gsxr1100 that could be sourced from another model? I know the rockers change over all the way up to 2006 gsx-f. The cam part numbers say for gsxr 1100 only so I realize that lift and duration will vary slightly but need a set and dont have cash to drop on some fancy new ones or regrinds. It’s on a boosted big block if that matters. I mainly need something that will work (although I realize may not be ideal) for now and will upgrade later along with larger valves etc. hence why I’m looking for cheapest and readily available options.

Not gonna lie, I built a turbo bike specifically for the BOV noise LoL I hope I can hear mine when it's done

I've watched a few of his videos but especially this one. I'm using AN -12 line. It's really close to the 19mm drain size on the Holset. Made my own mounting flange and port matched it the chra.

Good point! I just saw this picture and was wondering about it and if it was feasible. I do have a Facet Electric pump on hand already. Guess Ill get the appropriate fittings to plumb it in if needed. Thanks chaps.

Good day gents. As I near the (somewhat) completion, I'm thinking ahead about scavenge pumps if my drain isn't suffice. I know there's electronic ones but I remember seeing a pic of someone using the stock pump. All I could gather was there was a pipe going through the case and looked to be connected to the OEM pump. See attached pic Anyone see or know of this and can shed some Insight? I'd like to explore this option if it's viable. Turbo is a Holset HY 35. I have a very large drain but think the line angle might give issues. Not fully running yet so don't know. Just thinking\planning ahead

Update - I sold it off for 600 maple bacons. Want to focus on getting my turbo big bore efi slabby project done.

Not yet. I have a few gauges here to connect and check just to confirm. Last time I messed with it (last winter) it wouldn't run long before it began to squeak so I stopped running it and put it aside. Now that it seems to have sufficient oil up top, it'll give me time to check pressures. Video of it running. Still a long road ahead but this was a big hurdle to get over https://youtu.be/CaKRv80h79U

Ok. You're right bud. Carry on...