inmate

@imagoyes the magnets stuck to the inside of the stator housing, not the brushes that run on the commutator/rotor. They appear to be made of carbon and have come loose and broken into many pieces.

Ah, thank you Wraith. Didn’t know that was possible, wouldn’t know were to find that stuff, Egay? Could they just be stuck in with super glue or Araldite?

Good evening ladies and gents. As above, will any other starter motors from other air/oil cooled engines fit and work with my GS650gt. I ask as I know the 650 is a bit of an oddball in the shaftie family. The carbon blocks in the stator have broken in bits; I would appreciate any help as I wish to have the engine running to sell on.

Welcome aboard

Welcome, don’t worry, I’ve been asking numpty questions since I arrived

Nice one, shall follow with interest.

@Jdeacthanks for the info, it all helps.

@Jdeacdid you use sealant between the two cases, if so what did you use?

Thanks for this info @DuckndiveI asked the question in this forum earlier. Maybe I can make up a decent gearbox from used gears with new bearings.

@Jdeacthanks for asking the question, I will be doing the same work as you soonish, keep the photos coming please it will be a great help will be following Thankyou @davecarafor the online manual

Eventually getting around to sorting this gearbox problem, life-ill health- getting in the way. However I’m determined to start the tear down next week. Due to the extortionate prices and some parts being unavailable, I was wondering if I could use gearbox parts from other Suzuki models, ie. Bandit 12 mk1, mk2, Gsx1127f used parts or new - if they’re cheaper than Gsxr1100k. I will replace the bearings with new ones, but driven and drive gears may have to be used. Thanks in advance for any help, advice.

Thanks for the reply Wraith. I may get second-hand GS750 pistons new rings and re-bore the 650 barrels to suit if the little ends are the same size.

Having looked into these kits that R1Guy showed us, the GS 650 big bore kit (haha) looks like standard GS 750 pistons, 65.00 mm. So could I use OE GS 750 barrels and pistons, to big bore, lol, my GS 650 to make a whopping 740 cc. In other words have any of you guys experience of fitting 750 block to 650 crank cases? Or should I just bore the 650 block? With 65,000 + miles on my 650 it is getting a little tired and not always keen on starting.

nielw, yes that’s an idea I’ll have to price one up, but then I’d have the expense of another new tyre and still have odd wheels. TonyGee’s bike above is sort of the look I’m after, slowly modifying the bike when funds allow.

Ooh yea, I like that TonyGee. That’s why I come here talented peeps with imagination.

Wraith, yes the original wheel and a 130/70 tyre. There is brand new Bridgestone B46 just been fitted. I looked at fitting a wider wheel and tyre but there isn’t enough width in the swing arm. Long term I would like to fit an oil boiler 750/1200 in the bike, with chain drive and perhaps a GSX 1400 swing arm.

Yes wraith 120/70/17. I’ll try the local breakers see if I can get a top yoke, then I will need to find someone to do the welding. Anyone recommend a welder around north Manchester? Then next job find a better looking exhaust, hate the ugly motad thing.

Thanks for the replies wraith and Tony, I am looking to weld GSXR or b12 yokes to gain some extra fork length, I see that Clivegto , I think, has done this before, it would be the cheaper option. But would the 25mm be enough to reduce the ‘quick’ steering? It is a bit unnerving at the moment

Good afternoon OSS er’s, I need your expertise. I swapped the original, leaking front fork for a refurbished, by Kais suspension, front fork, plus brakes, yokes, speedo drive and wheel from my GSXR 1100 k. I think it looks the Bollocks compared to how it was, brakes much better, suspension more controlled-less bouncy. However it now wants to fall into corners with the slightest push of the bars. I put this down to the shorter fork altering steering geometry. So, can I get away with adding say the ends of a GSXR top yolk welded to my top yolk, giving approx. 25 mm, or will I have to have a stepped top yolk made to bring it back to original geometry. GS original fork length - 780 mm axle to top of stantion GSXR original fork length - 740 mm Thanks, inmate

Had a similar noise, rumble, when upright but went away when leaned over to left, not on side stand, on my old GS 650 gt, was convinced it was valve clearance problem. Did everything the guys above suggested, fresh oil/filter, sump off nothing to see, checked valve clearances - in spec., timing chain-in spec., timing chain tensioner ok. Noise still there, but I did balance the carbs and not noisy anymore, idles much better and picks up well better. Everything the guys have suggested is worth doing before riding the bike and you’ll get get to know her more intimately.

Thanks for the welcome mr Swiss Toni, yep it looks like it, bearings on the Christmas present list LOL. Be sure FBoB, I WILL be asking questions of you all, when the tear down begins.

Whoa, hold on there Joseph that’s a little too technical for my small brain. The screaming is at all speeds, under constant load; say a constant 30/40/50 mph. If I close the throttle it stops, if I open it up full throttle again it stops, weirdly.

Thanks for the reply’s mr Dezzie & FBoB. You’re all correct, the lump is gonna have be stripped and spend some cash on parts. Strange that it’s only 3&4 that scream.

I have tried a short run down the street with a slack chain, no difference, but thinking afterwards-not something I do well- the chain would only be slack on the lower run LOL Please bare with me FBoB. Thanks for the pics.

Thanks for this mr fatblokeonbandit. I was looking at this a while ago, it was either No. 22or 30 described as a ‘bearing’ in my naivety I thought it may be common to both 3rd an 4th driven gears, thus causing the similar scream only in those gears. I have a Haynes manual, which I shall use to keep an ageing eye out for