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Del

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Posts posted by Del

  1. (IIrc,it's been a few years)My 11k rwu's(720-30mm) were slightly shorter  than my 750 usd's(740mm).That is fork top to centre of the spindle . The 11k forks were 20mm longer than my old 750k forks because the 11 used top mount clip-ons.
    The 555mm measurement is for the fork stanchions alone :) 

  2. 18 hours ago, rustychain said:

    put some magnets in the tank if its not to bad .. worked for me 

    As above,break up a speaker magnet and slide it in around the hole were the fuel tap goes,no more rust in the tap or carbs :)

    Cheap rust remover from the tank,is the cheapest nastiest coke that you can buy(Happy shopper and tesco 17p value coke works really well),5 litres will do,swill around and leave to stand for 3 days. Empty out and leave in a dry,warm place(airing cupboard).Then swill out with clean fuel. Did my brothers tls tank and fuel pump holder,now they are  clean and rust free :)

    • Like 3
  3. 4 hours ago, Rene EFE said:

    As above, but you will also need hoses to suit; some are different

    Not on the Bandit sumps,they feed from the front like the gsxr1100k/l/m/n,teapots(the 98 onwards use the same sumps as the bandits),powerscreen,Inazuma 400-1200(also use the same sumps as bandits)gsx750w/x/y(again also use the same sumps as the blandits)and gsxr750j/k.So hoses can be swapped between them  ;)
    The only ones that are different,are the slabby 750/1100's and gsxr750l/m(and USA only gsxr750n).These feed from underneath the sumps,they all also use the same sumps :) 

  4. There is no real difference between the the 750l/m and 1100k-n frames.The 11k frame is slightly lighter than the 750l/m and 11l-n frames,as it doesn't have the castlatted adjuster at the arm pivot,the 11k also has the added bonus of a removeable top shock mount like the 750's(it also uses the same linkages as the 750's with a 10mm longer arm).I have had 750j/k/l/m and 11k frames now.The 750j/k were the smallest and the 11k/l/m frames were all about the same size.
    On my 11k,I am using 750 running gear(just got a 750k arm for it)and bodywork.It is setup with a hagon shock from an 1100ws(slightly longer than the k shock)and 750l front end dropped through the yokes by 30mm(no clearance problems).I set it up for me and handles really well(stayed with my other brothers old 1000k4):) 

    You can also tell there isn't alot of difference between the slingshot frames,as I am using the 750k full bodywork on mine.The mid panels just need pulling into place(no bracket is needed like the slabby 750/11 mid panel swaps)because of the top end height difference between the 748 and 1127cc(I am even using a full 4-1 micron system from a 750L,just needed a bandit sump fitting,as the collector sits on the sump plug) :) 
    13494867_10153888224099125_2172698081646
    In this pic,you can see there is no real difference between the 2 frames.Sonny's old resident evil 7/12 and my 11k :)
    DSC00219.jpg

  5. 2 hours ago, warmsupersteve said:

     it is a powerscreen never gona be light,, lol

    They can be made to be light,just by swapping the front and back end on mine,I have knocked 50kg off of the weight :)

    • Like 2
  6. 10 hours ago, canamant said:

    I don't know the availability of those clutch plates but if available they will be expensive.  Why not preserve the 750 as is and put the whole engine on the shelf and just fit the 1100 with its wet clutch ?

     

    Ebc stock them :)

     

    • Like 1
  7. On 30/12/2015 at 9:41 PM, Dr Jon said:

    Thanks Captain. Unfortunately the original 600 carbs are only 31mm

     

    It was only the 1988 teapot 600 that had bst31ss metal tops(same as the bst34ss),the 89-97 teapot 600 got slingshot bst33ss,which are just smaller bore versions of the bst36ss cv's.Then the 98 got the crap bsr cv's :)

     

  8.  

    On 03/07/2016 at 7:47 PM, Jdeac1981 said:

    Would I be right in thinking then that a slabby or slingy stem would press into the appropriate k series bottom yoke??

    cheers

    You don't need to swap stems on the srad,k-series,busa,tls/r,etc yokes,just needs a bearing swap  and modify the lockstops ;) 

    You just need the slabby/ slingshot 32006 bottom bearing and a 32906 bearing,from Marksman,for the top bearing :)
    http://shop.marksman-ind.com/99-3540-5-30x47x12-taper-roller-bearing-32906-15086-p.asp

  9. 16 hours ago, Quist said:

     

    If you run carbs with a round inlet like 38 or 40cv, I would recommend the Pipercross dual filters. No need to glue or anything. Perfect fitment and good performance.

    Those are bst38's on my brothers 11g with the ramair fillter socks ;)
    I only glued the first set that I fitted to the bst34ss',this was because the b6 airbox rubbers where abit lose in them,but they would have worked without glue.
    That glue you can see in the pic,is what was left over from my first trial fit. I didn't use any glue on the next set that were fitted to the bst38ss'.The ramair's worked excellent on the 38's and we got good results when setup on the road and track dyno(then the engine went pop,but that was nothing to do with the fueling,just old an age 1052,valve stem oil seals knackered and low compression.Originally had a Mr Turbo setup fitted to it). :)

     

    On 03/07/2016 at 5:37 PM, Jdeac1981 said:

    Cool. Thanks for that del. I've seen those piper cross ones but not the ram air one.

    ive seen some filter that are stepped down (can't remember the name though) would the be ok they are singles though.

    Stay away from single filters on cv's,they won't work properly.

    What carbs are you using?

  10. Another set of dual filters which are also designed for the slabby/slingshot frames,is the ones from piperX.They are also a really good filter to use ,but cost around the same as the k&n duals when new :)
    http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-GSXR1100W-98-93-2X-60mm-ID-PIPERCROSS-POWER-CONE-FILTERS-MPX1004-/181323270387

    This is PiperX' Eblag shop
    http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Pipercross-60mm-id-Dual-Cone-Filter-X-2-Air-Filter-for-Suzuki-GSXR1100W-89-93-/311636359912

     

  11. If you are running cv's,then don't used individual filters(they are okay for flatties),you will never get it right.Also don't use k&n dual filters,they scrunch up on the slabby/slingshot frames and are not really suited to the bst cv's(some say they are okay,but i've never got good results from them),plus they are quite expensive.

    The ramair filter socks and silicone bellmouth/reducers(or airbox rubbers) are much more suited to the bst cv's and fit in the space better.Plus they cost £25(k&n are about £90) :)

    http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/RAMAIR-PERFORMANCE-FOAM-SOCK-AIR-FILTERS-SUZUKI-GSXR1100-89-1993/390490981793

    http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Universal-60mm-76mm-Air-Filter-Induction-Kit-Silicone-Reducer-Connector-/271135577125

    And this is others who have used them.


    This is a set I made earlier.1100 with bst38ss :)
    DSC_0037_1_zpslkvywwgt.jpg
    13516453_10153888223854125_8907492466503
    13434804_10153888224944125_3855342313987
    13516283_10153888225174125_3393051289501

    • Like 1
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