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StevieB

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Everything posted by StevieB

  1. Carb rebuild update Received genuine Suzuki float needles from Fowlers. Leak checked them on the bench - fuel level initially dropped them stabilised when height of fuel in fuel feed (initially 2' above carbs). Figured either residual air in carbs or increased head of fuel had to balance against designed pressure operation of float valves. Anyway as stabilised for a few hours fitted blank to fuel feed to simulate petrol tap off - no leaks after 24 hours. Finally fitted to the bike and first run carried out. Main thing it started with no fuel leaks from carbs. However nothing ever runs smoothly straight away! Bike runs from choke to fully warned up - but it has an erratic idle, if you rev the throttle and release it doesn't idle straight away. Get the idle speed adjusted around 1200 rpm and it will increase occasionally to 2500. I was thinking the completion of this project has taken forever - been a couple of months to get fuel issues sorted. So researched on here for advice - Satansams gsx750 revs super high post has given me hope (6 months plus!) and some pointers to try:- Carbs cleaned and rebuilt as per guidance - happy with them! Haven't adjusted mixture screws away from 2.5 turns yet or balanced carbs. was thinking possible air leak from carb rubbers/manifold or Airbus or sticking CV slide (CV membrane definitely good) but when tested them for operation before fit one did stick - reseated cap and sorted - recheck them. Thinking of investing in carb vacuum gauges.
  2. 100% sure, leak checked valve seats and o rings first. And intermittent leak which could be seated/unseated by tapping bowl. Would never be able to trust floats to not leak, learnt my lesson on quality of parts. Won't be ordering pattern parts on critical items again. Ordered genuine parts from Fowlers (ouch!) - back order - typical. Cheers
  3. Thanks - examined floats - no leaks when submerged - no damage. The floats seal intermittently, can be sealed or unseated by tapping each bowl. So think just a bad seal from aftermarket parts. And yes agree the prices of genuine parts are high and don't really want to pay that - but unfortunately don't have much choice. Had enough of trying to get cheap ones to seal. True what they say u get what u pay for. Never had this issue before but never done a leak check before fitting. If cheap ones don't seal effectively then they could have always be letting fuel leak from between fuel tap - fuel tube into carbs - explain why it's never been a good starter. Hopefully next post will be on finished projects not advice section - cheers.
  4. Still having issues with the carbs - can't get the fuel to stop leaking past the float needles. Carried out the leak test with fuel reservoir about 18" - 2' above the carbs, they're set at approx angle as on the bike. Fuel can be seen slowly and steadily dropping (takes hours) and exits from one of the air intake tappings. They were new valves and seals. Also tried advice on YouTube fixing leaking valves. Polished the inside of valve Bush and sides of needle valve to reduce friction. Thought stop valves sticking. Letting it sit overnight with end of fuel pipe blanked off - to simulate on bike with fuel tap off. Think the only way forward is to bite the bullet and get genuine Suzuki valves and needles. Lost count of how many times I've had the bowls off to try and resolve the leak. Fuel seeps out of lower right (in zoomed in photo) air tapping.
  5. Well cool, like the exhaust too.
  6. Cheers - will dress out damage on float internal pivot and pin after work tomorrow. Never noticed it before, think been mangled by someone in the past - pliers or vice. Hoping this may have been the cause of float sticking. Will then leave carbs sitting with fuel feed attached overnight. Hopefully no leaks!
  7. Hi thanks for the advice. Tried taking bowls off in in situ to check floats seating - virtually impossible on inner carbs. Taken them out again - one job I really hate - not much clearance even with airbox unbolted. May have found fault - no3 carb float pivot point and pin have damage marks and may have restricted float movement. Will smooth them off and try again. I shall check all carbs needles seating as u suggested over a few hours. Will try n fit with bowls full of fuel so floats should stay seated. And there was fuel in engine - oil drained. When I set the float heights before got them exact as diagram (22.4mm). With this setting and fuel in each carb set totally level I got the specified fuel level of 5mm. If the carbs are set to in bike positiin (roughly 5 degrees down, fwd) then the fuel height will vary from front to back. So where would u measure the fuel height from? Only thing I'm not sure about but will be testing on the bench all carbs together before refitting to the bike. I know gotta be patient as things take time but just wanna ride it!how I set float height
  8. Everything back together - thought going well - found out original fault - the passage way between float bowls and choke feed, and choke feed tubes totally blocked. Used old tip from Dezza on here with cellulose thinners to dissolve the old sealant blockage. Cleaned everything, replaced seals, gaskets, needle valves and set up float height and fuel heights with clear tubing from fuel in bowls. All spot on and each carb needle valve stopped fuel flow at correct height. Ganged all carbs together, set up mechanical balances. Refitted to the bike, and now fuel is pouring out of airbox drain from no3 and 4 carb. Obviously not seating, no amount of tapping stopped the flow. Drained the oil, no fuel evident. Not sure of next step - was thinking take carbs out and fill with fuel first - but think angle they need to be tilted to will spill fuel anyway. Bit stuck?setting fuel heightsetting fuel height
  9. Continuing the carb rebuild. Saved the link for choke dust seals - thanks bushcrafter. The repair to mine is good - vulcanising glue sorted it - but added an additional o ring between the spring and brass housing to stop any dust.additiinal dust o ring
  10. Still rebuilding between working shifts. Set float heights and now measuring fuel level on each carb. Couldn't find dust seal for choke anywhere. Glued it back together with vulcanising puncture glue - seems to work and added an o ring between spring, carb choke plunger and screw in retainer to totally seal against dust. Seems to operate without restricting choke plunger movement. Will update with photos next week when I start rebuilding.
  11. Started the cleaning process, being thorough so will take a while. Just one issue so far - one of the choke plunger outer dust seals is torn. Can't find a parts list or diagram that details them. Anyone know of a part number? I know mikuni bs32 cv's not just used on the gs550.
  12. StevieB

    Carb leak

    This recent post has a description how to test float needle valves
  13. Thanks will set with no gasket.
  14. StevieB

    Carb leak

    I've had carb problems too. There's loads of posts with your bikes issue. Sounds like fuel leaking past float valves on 2 carbs. Probably need new float valves. Been posts on here how to check carbs for leakage.
  15. Thanks for the advice on the carbs and spares. The guide from Bushcraft was the one I followed - brilliant. Other websites and manuals say measure float height with gasket. Think set + .5 mm without gasket, will then be close to limit with gasket. I think my photos confused things - pic inside bowl was to show old gasket and debris that I think caused jet blockages and prevented bike from running. The other pic was to show welded float post - I thought quite a good repair. So far I have totally stripped the carbs (drilled out pilot screw blanking plug and fitted self tapping screw to remove blanks). Also rubber pilot jet plugs removed as not much left of them - totally had it - don't think they were sealing. Plan to get all them cleaned and reassembled once I get all the spares. Will update with progress and photos. Cheers
  16. Lol - a gallon in tank - set to reserve and fuel filled bowls - had carb drain off to confirm fuel getting through.
  17. And most importantly need advice on source of O rings for carb internals, fuel connecting pipes, vents pilot jet plugs and chokes. Bit dubious about Eblag or Amazon, Fowlers and Robinson Foundry are for individual seals, was hoping for a complete rebuild kit.
  18. Hi just got a few questions regarding cleaning and rebuilding CV carbs on a GS550e. Firstly thanks to everyones help in figuring out my original issue with a fuel tap. The advice and links on here are so helpful - thanks. After replacing my fuel tap as it wasn't giving a decent fuel flow from the vacuum I was hoping for an easy start. However I couldn't get it started. Fuel now in carb bowls, spark on all cylinders but all plugs dry. Suspect no fuel through carb jets. Followed brilliant carb cleaning and rebuild guide from this site. Managed to get them all apart without damaging anything and only having to saw slots in a couple of screws. Have discovered a lot of red debris sludge which think has gradually got into the Jets and now stopped fuel flow. One of the float posts has been previously snapped and welded - good repair! My couple of questions are:- conflicting information - do you measure float height with or gaskets? Pilot screws were previously capped - do I reset to noted original settings from factory (all different) or set to manual figures?
  19. Just got the fuel tap from Fowlers, 2 weeks delivery direct from Japan. Not bad considering current world issues and hold up in the Suez. They sourced it from my VIN number, almost exactly like original - tap has fuel and reserve but no prime. However has a brass screw you turn out to prime. Replying to previous comment the diaphragm on my 2 taps are a lot bigger than friends gs Katana one. So tap fitted, tested tap with a syringe on vacuum line to see at what pressure it operated. I know not an exact science but my previous tap took double the travel of the syringe to open the vacuum. So definitely better than previous. Was thinking just press the starter and all would be well - to my disappointment it wouldn't start at all. Spark on all cylinders, fuel in carb bowls but plugs dry. Figure carb issues, will be starting fresh post to ask a few questions.
  20. Phoned up Fowlers Bristol, got a fuel tap part number from the bike's vin. So it's on order (44300-49173). Not the number I expected, will see! Just gotta wait for shipping. Thanks to everyone for their advice.
  21. Was thinking the same, might get away with routing forward then get a gsx tap. Check tomorrow - cheers
  22. Thanks - couldn't find any 44mm spacing vacuum taps with inward facing fuel feed. But good tip with vacuum. Emailed fowlers - cheers.
  23. Been researching replacement taps - nothing ever easy. Needs the 44mm bolt spacing - but tap fuel feed needs to point inwards not aft and vacuum hose needs to point fwd - needs both correct for routing and clearance. Just can't find any that will fit - plenty on M and P and Wemeto but wrong pipe orientation. May have to give Fowlers a call. One from Eblag or breakers will no doubt need seals and I'm back to the start! Driving me mad!
  24. Hi had the tap in bits and taken measurements of components. The circular metal "spring" plate on the back of the diaphragm is broken. Tried fabricating one but fuel outlet drips slightly. Would be ok if carb float valves seal 100% - but not ideal. The mounting bolts to the tank have 43mm centres so I think other gs taps will fit. Haven't thought of replacing tap for just a diaphragm seal kit. Ok if new but second hand tap could need new seals! I have the first original pink slip, and yes it came from California - Walnut Creek CA94596. So that explains the lack of prime.
  25. The spring on the diaphragm is exactly what I think the problem is. I shall be taking it apart - check for part numbers and then research with local dealer. Also check online for alternative parts from dimensions. When I get it resolved I will post source of spares back on here. Thanks for the advice.
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