StevieB

The tap has 2 positions - tried to show engraved lettering (on just shows the o). On half past, reserve quarter to. Just operates in 90 degrees - no prime. Looking on American websites (as where imported from) I think the tap part number is 44300-99170 or 99172. I shall try one of my local bike garages here as suggested,they do old restorations and may have a microfiche. And in the meantime wait to hear from M and P for any stock from my dimensions of tap seal. Thanks for the advice.

Hi thanks for the replies. Been working shifts so just got photos of the tap on my bike tank showing just on and reserve and a corroded one from a uk 650 katana. They are totally different sizes. Was wondering if you have a microfiche part number for my tap Joseph - would be really helpful. Have seen on M and P website many fuel tap repair kits but no part numbers or fitment details. Have measured outside the width of my tap:- 42.5mm approx, so maybe another way of chasing a spare as suggested. Cheers

Will get one taken. Assume it's for USA regs, and there's no drain on the carb bowls. To prime you have to put a vacuum onto the tap vacuum port - then get a fuel flow. I know it physically works as tried before fitting tank to bike. Just think required too much force to operate. Which is why I'm after a new diaphragm. Will get some pics.

Hi hopefully someone may be able to help. I'm looking for a repair kit for the vacuum operated fuel tap on a USA import 1980 gs550e. Not sure of part number as the tap is different to UK as no prime position. I suspect the diaphragm doesn't open until engine running on full vacuum. Plugs dry on initial starting. Carbs, tap, filter, tank all been stripped down and cleaned. Only ones I've found are on Eblag, or m and p but don't know part number. Thanks.

Thanks - that's exactly what I needed to know from someone with more electrical knowledge than me. Cheers

Thanks for the replies. Don't think my post was that clear, was questioning the regulator/rectifier earth lead - not the wiring harness negative return. The one on my bike previously went to frame earth - but reading a link from GS resources it was recommended to run it directly to the battery negative. Just wondered if this was a better idea?

Hi - in progress rebuilding my 1989 Gs550. Engine back in the frame. It hasn't run for the past 7 years so thought I would start cleaning all electrical contacts throughout the harness before attaching a battery. It's already had the regulator/rectifier mod done to eliminate overheating and burning out. Previously the earth wire was bolted to the frame to earth. Been reading the forums here and GS resources - my one question is it better to wire the earth lead directly to battery negative for a better connection or is the frame earth as original sufficient?

Had the clutch cover off my 1980 electric start bike. There is a machined "hole" and 3 inserts for a kickstart mechanism in the bottom end. Just need to decide if I'm gonna take apart a perfectly serviceable engine to fit a kickstart or wait till camchain change in the near future when reaches 40,000. Only other factor which will make me do it now is if I can't get the sump off as sump plug thread stripped and I've got another sump. Will take a search on here for sump advice, and here's pics of the kickstart machining in electric start bottom end.

Thanks for the advice. Just rebuilding the rear brake system, the engine is the next job. Originally only got the bottom end for the sump as my thread had stripped from previous owner. The engine has a kickstart so thought nice easy job take off clutch cover and it would just slide in - how wrong could I be. I will take the clutch cover off and see if there's a blank between the two crankcase halves. Or wether they did change the crankcase machining for the shaft not to be fitted. If I can't then I shall just rebuild a spare engine. Handy to know a 650 top end will fit - cheers. Will update when I've had a look

Thanks for the advice. Will take off the clutch cover and take a look. Could rebuild with kickstart bottom end but unknown mileage or history, and really wanted to keep original engine serial number.

Hi, got an American import Gs550e with electric start and was planning to fit a Kickstarter from a donor bottom end that I also have. Is it possible to just split the crankcase to fit the kickstart gear mechanism but leave the top end intact? Was hoping to split it upside down leaving the crank and all top end on bench and lift bottom half of crankcase off. Is this possible? Cheers.