Ted M
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Posts posted by Ted M
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Can you confirm the carbs you are running. If they’re from the Mk 1 bandit then 3 turns out is too much they should be 1 3/4 turns out. The Mk 2 carbs are 3 turns out. If you need 3 turns on the Mk 1 carbs then your problem is in the pilot circuit either it’s blocked or you need a bigger jet
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Going by the sprocket carrier the black one looks like a Bandit 12. But the adjuster are wrong.
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Yes mate it should be blocked although I don’t know the material that the bung is made from.
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I've run Bandit 12 wheels with standard discs on a WP 1100 front end. It needed a 2mm spacer (penny washer) on the calliper to fork mount for the callipers to run central.
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Hi mate you’ll need a degree wheel, motion pro, APE amongst others do them. A dial gauge and mount machine mart and places like that. A piston stop again motion pro, APE et Al do these.
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Be very careful with the 81mm pistons and a dot head set up as the CR might be that high you can run diesel. I was going to do something similar but using Wiseco pistons but I checked the CR and found it to be in the region of 15:1. Also the piston crown was running very close to the cylinder head.
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It’s an interesting one almost like the cam chain isn’t sitting on the crank sprocket properly. I would speak to @fatblokeonbanditas he has built a couple of dot head 1200s. What is the purpose of polishing the oil pump?
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Cheers mate
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Afternoon oil cooled OSS land. I need a favour. I need to know the width of a B12 mk1 front wheel spindle and the width of a GSXR 1100 usd forks front wheel spindle (any model as long as they’re upside down forks). It’s a complicated tale but I’ve got 2 wheel spindles off a GSXR 1100 with usd forks (allegedly) both are the same width and both aren’t wide enough to go completely through both sides.
Once I know the width of said wheel spindles no doubt it will throw up more questions. But at the moment it’s doing my head in. Many thanks in advance and a beer to the first one who gets the answer
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@fatblokeonbanditmany thanks bud
I’ve got it done now. I used 2 tyre levers with a little bit of pressure and it came off no problem. I had tried them before but I must have positioned them too far under the gear ring as it was flexing when I applied pressure. This time I positioned them just under the alternator gear ring and they came off no dramas. 
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If you’re going to do big bore and cams there’s no point in swapping as you can do the same to a B12 engine for the same outcome. It’ll also take a bigger bore (81 mm) before machining crankcases and using big blocks.
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
EDIT - Brain fart time! I don't know why I thought u meant the big primary gear - excuse my senility!
No worries mate I appreciated the reply anyway
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1 hour ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Tightend the alternator up without engaging the drive gear first
No mate putting the clutch basket back in. I can’t believe I’ve been so stupid it even says in the Haynes manual to be careful. I’ve now got to strip it to find/check for the missing gear tooth (I found 2). I managed to get a complete clutch with good plates but the basket was damaged in transit hence the reason I need to remove the gear ring to swap it over.
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Many thanks mate I’ll fire up the bbq then. Yea it’s the alternator and gear ring. 3 guesses what I did as a crack handed doofus.
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Hello
I need a bit of help please. I need to remove the generator gear ring from a B12 clutch basket. Does anyone have any top tips on how to do it. I assume its a straight pull, but without getting medieval on it mine isn't moving.
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Hi
If you know the year or model of the 500 go onto Wemoto web site and they have the dimensions of sprockets on there under transmission - sprockets. Then search through the different models. It looks like a GSXR 1100 G will fit, they do a 530 conversion for that model so it looks like you're in luck.
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Bloody hell even your engine stand is clean
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6 minutes ago, MeanBean49 said:
They are still only ballpark instructions. Following them still doesnt mean it will run right.
I agree totally mate but iI was just pointing out that it seems like the jet sizes that OP has installed are for the wrong carbs
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If I am reading this right you have a mix and match setup of Dynojet parts. The B12 Mk 2 carbs are different to the Mk1 carbs. 155 main jet is a Dynojet part for the Mk1 B12. They are too big for the Mk2 carbs. The mixture screw is also wrong for those carbs also it should be 2.5 turns out you also need to adjust the float hieght to 11 - 11.5mm. Google Dynojet B12 Instructions and you will get the details you need to set the carbs up.
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Stunning paint, simply stunning love it
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Hold the front brake on and blip the throttle as you engage gear. Has it done it since changing your oil?
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Absolutely stunning top work
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14 hours ago, Keeper96 said:
Evening all,
ive just acquired a 1999 gsx600f. I gave it a full service yesterday but found that it appears to have a different engine in.
according to my data it should use cr9ek spark plugs but the ones I removed where dr8es, obviously these are a different thread size.
am I right in thinking this would make it an engine from a 1988-‘97 teapot?
is there an easy way to tell without stripping the fairings to look at engine numbers?
But you must have taken the fairing off to do the spark plugs, unless you have an iron like grip and hands like a baby
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I’ll have to bow to your knowledge there mate. I’ve got a k6 swing arm at home and the stiffness in that is phenomenal. But I still reckon that clives bracing will offer more stiffness than as standard especially in the side to side plane
Works X75R motor.
in Oil Cooled
Posted
That intake port looks big enough to swallow a child